help with weber carburetor install

[mikepass]

Well I made the decision to swap to a weber carb. I have a 80 CJ5 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l 4 speed. I bought a new 32/36 dgev wk551 carb to swap with. Here is the problem the plate to manifold fits and the plate to carb fits but when you try to mount all on studs the bboltholes do not line up. Am I missing something. If I try to mount carb to mounting studs the holes are not right. I can ssnd pics if that would help

 

[caveman]

I think we need a clearer explanation of whats going on. You say that everything fits but the bolt holes don't line up. Pictures might help. Where did you get the adapter?

 

[yellow85cj]

There is a sequence that you might not be seeing.

First adapter plate along with the gasket. This is bolted down first. Remember you are using steel screws/bolts to thread into aluminium. Do not over torque or you will strip the threads and need new adapter plates. Or in the case of the first adapter, a new intake. A little light thread locker wouldn't hurt.

Then install the studs in the second adapter plate. Be careful not to screw the studs in too far. They should be a little above the bottom. Enough so that they do not keep the plate from sitting flat against the first adapter plate. A little light thread locker isn't a bad idea.

Then bolt the adapater and gasket down. Again a little light thread locker.
And again, remember you are using steel screws/bolts to thread into aluminium. Do not over torque or you will strip the threads and need new adapter plates. Ask me how I know this.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TNlIW1X0mdM/U4pgqM0OVmI/AAAAAAAAJpc/gZUr9hF70sA/s800/IMG_0275.JPG

Now you are ready to bolt the carb on. If it doesn't fit now, you may have some wrong parts.

 

[mikepass]

Ok now I have carb mounted , now having all kinds of problems getting tuned. First lets talk vacuum , what lines do I need to set it up , I know that the vacuum advance goes in to carb , and pcv valve goes in to carb. Do I need the double sided pcv to go to canister or single side just to carb. Thinking canister is not working, and was told that was for California emissions. What other vacuum lines do I need and not need.

 

[mikepass]

Thanks for all your help hope you do not mind that I might need step by step help.

 

[numbersix]

Are you still running an EGR or is it disabled / blocked off? I retained the EGR since it worked fine and I had the stock exhaust / intake manifold. This may not apply if you have aftermarket headers / intake. There really isn't any reason to NOT use the canister unless it is malfunctioning. You should have a gas tank vent line that plumbs into the canister. Vapors will be sucked into the engine while running, at it helps cut down on that fuel smell when parked / off. Now is a good time to check to see if you have a check valve installed, it should be on the drivers side rear wheel baffle.

At any rate, it is kinda of difficult to explain how to plumb everything together without know what exactly you have. Most people will want to just rip everything out and plug it all, but a properly plumbed system really does run well. I ran a 32/36 on my 85 CJ7 minus the computer and crazy pulse-air system, the setup will be similar to yours. A couple pics of your engine would be helpful, I could draw up a diagram for you. I checked my old files but I can't seem to find the diagram I had saved.

 

[mikepass]

I would send pic if I could figure out how

 

[numbersix]

"Manage attachments" button, instructions here:

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f16/how-attach-images-post-1270/

 

[mikepass]

Here is my hoses under hood

 

[numbersix]

It looks like your setup is going to be the same as mine, I also have the factory cast iron exhaust / intake manifold. I'll finish up the diagram and post it shortly. You can also check to see if you have the ported vacuum switch and EGR delay valve installed. They are basically vacuum controlled switches with plastic nipples, and a small threaded brass end that screws to the drivers side of the engine block. Google ACDELCO #212632, they look like that.

You really don't need the first one I mentioned, but you will need the 2 port one I just linked if you want to run the EGR. Once the engine is up to temp, vacuum is allowed to pass through and activate the EGR which in turns recirculates exhaust gas back into your intake. This again, assume your EGR is functioning. If you don't have emissions requirements and the valve is broken, you can always remove the EGR and plug it. New ones are around $70, cheaper to buy a block off plate which is $10-20 on ebay.

 

[numbersix]

Crude image but about as simple as it gets. You'll need vacuum "T" to connect the PCV, carb, and canister together. You'll also need a 4-way vacuum cross for the ported vacuum (orange line). EGR delay valve, inner port (closest to block) is the feed line, the outside port goes to the EGR valve. If you decide to delete the EGR completely, you only need a "Y" connector for the ported vacuum since all you'll be feeding is the purge signal on the canister and the distributor vacuum advance. Hope this all makes sense.