Hi guys , new member from the uk seeking advice from you.
Im in the uk but I visit egypt a lot for windsurfing, I have a house in a remote part of Sinai in a beduin village called Asalla a part of dahab in south sinai, which is a mountainous rocky sandy desert.
There are many many old jeeps about in this area, because of the climate , body work is no problem, and the egyptians/beduin , keep them going with little more it seems than a hammer and the occasional spanner. Consequently if the vehicle moves it is regarded as working fine , there is no concept of maintenance.
I bought three years ago a
CJ7 with a
AMC 232 i6 engine, there is no VIN plate on the vehicle , and the vehicle id stamped on the chassis and engine do not correspond correctly with the stuff I have seen on sites and manuals.
I think it was stolen from israel then registered in sinai around the handover time post 82.
Anyway its a 1978
AMC 232 i6 straight 6, and all original
Its always had an oil problem , but now its throwing out a lot of oil from the dipstick and pushing oil from the rocker cover via the breather into the Airfilter.( None of the PCV system was there but the fumes were terible so I put this in. which has cured this but made the oil problem worse)
With my
Limited knowledge im thinking a piston ring problem ????
There are no pressure guage testers out there so im stuck with having to get a mechanic to strip it and have a look. A rebore is out of the question, would it be allright to just replace the rings ?
Any help or advice will be greatfully recieved as im not sure what to do. a lot of the egyptians are just telling me to rip out the engine and put in an imported second hand Toyota, but I bought it as it was original.
cheers
mark
Read thru two times .... there is something going on...
The
AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l /
AMC 232 i6 take 6 qts of oil with filter change.... there are several oil fill tubes and oil dip stick of different lenghts.... The dipstick tube is press fit into the engine block and usuall do not leak there unless the dipstick is damaged or cracked. 1978 dip stick press fit into block should be about 7 in or so.... if not sure it looks to be correct... change oil filter and add 6 qts should read correct level after your briefly start engine.... Good ck to make sure proper there....
The dipstick has a O Ring on the bottom of the CAP... this helps seal to the dip stick. There is also FRICTION needed, if the dip stick moves up down at will or very easy ...... the top of dip stick, other end of the oil reading has three "legs" that have been stamped apart..... Take a flat blade screw driver and push the two slots/legs away from the other one leg...... this will make it fit snug in the dip stick tube that is press fit into block....
Should not be leaking out of dipstick and blowing out is unuasually and may have other meanings... I agreed with other poster that you may have over filled the oil levels..... but then you said it pumps out the oil out the dip stick tube till it has low level readings??????????
One of the reasons I suggusted refill with 6 qt filter, veryify the dipstick inidcation is correct... Fit the Oring back in place and make the dipstick fit snug so the O RING works not.... That should fix the majority of pump oil out dipstick or even it engine was overfulll...
I agree will need to do a WARM compressioin ck and your old reading will be in the 80 to 160 psi range if I were to take a wild guess.... Also very sandy dusty conditions we here in states would say is server usuage conditions... Sand get everywhere.... So we do often oil changes and filter changes.
When engine running the PCV should be under vaccum and suck at the end and can feel by covering the end of PCV with finger or thumb. IF NOT SUCKING then the carb/manifold sucktion port is blocked or partial block.... Yes the clean air into engine is supplied by the air filter in the AIR BOX..... the sucktion of side of the PCV goes below the carb or to the manifold.... I like below the carb so all the cylinders get some of the junk fumes and mabye a little oil that gets sucked up...... THIS IS A REASON why I would not put direclty to the manifold... if you choose front or back the #1 or #6 cylinder might get more of the blow by gases or oil and may foul that plug with junk and afffect your engine operation...
The blow by gases should blow out the valve cover opeing if one of the ports/holes is open.... That confusses me when you say the PCV was out and the engine when running blew oil out the dip stick tube??? So maybe verify you did say this....
IF you have a carter BBD, might want to get a rebuild kit and read about the IDEL TUBES..... they can be drilled open to .032" and solve idle/stall problems and make it a pretty goood carb. Have bud look at the throttle plate shaft & side of carb.... if worn and wobbles some then replace..... it will leak air, possible bind, and will not work properly...
I like the webers...... but I would like to see what you have workign bettr first.... 32/36 good choice so is 34/34. Order some extra jet in the...mains in the 140 to 155 range and extra idle jets in the 40 to 55 range. Most Jeep carbs use about 48 run jet... Weber carb are different..... use a idle jet that will allow the jeep to run well from idle to 1900 rpms.... Then we pick run jets that will allow us to run above that rpm range and have a good transition... Once you have decent runnning..... Look at your plugs for runnining gently in town driving... 1200-1400 rpms or so..... turn off jeep pull over.... look at first three plug they should be tan.... Take pictures and write it down... Then go down the hwy at 55 for a bit.... turn off jeep coast over to stop, and look at plugs...... I also found let the plugs sit overnight and you will get a more vivid color to take a look at. Search reading spark plugs if you want to see more....
Webers also like 3.5-3 psi fuel press..... so use the Holley Fuel Press REgulator set at 3.5 psi. Do not use the return line with this regulator if you go weber... I use a see thru plastic filter so I can see the fuel flow... I have also found the drivers corner has some gas tank controls for roll over and breath... Mine were pluged with dirt/mud and not breething... So I took them out and replaced the orginal fuel line and you should be able to reach this w/o moving the gas tank..... if you cannot do w/o removing the tank leave the old lines alone..... but worth a look if you have a chance.
I also suggest you look at, pic, and record in note book what your current plugs look like..... If very black and oil covered they will not work very well to deliver spark energy..... AND it tells us there is some oil blow by to cylinder......
The 1978 has a good DuraSpark distributor.... I would not change it unless you have major wear it wobbles to the point it looks to be not true any more..... I DO NOT LIKE HEI Distirbutros in AMC.....
I would suggest you cut the black wire, gound, to the DuraSpark Igntiion Modual on the drivers fender wall..... Solder in a 12 awy wire and run to battery ground.... Do this on the harness side so it stays in harness incase the DuraSpark Modual ever needs to be changed... This will make the igntion work much better..... Ground your head also it willl help, and use copper antiseize on the sprak plug threads to help them be grounded....
Take a look at top of page on the TEAMRUSH write up..... Briing these tune up parts with you they will help a TON....... I guess like 20% pep and rpms range can usually go up about 1000 rpms...... you shoudl be able to reach 4000 rpms with out major issue.... if 3000 is a chore than you have some issues... Mine will do 4400 rpm very quickly if asked to....
I suggest the tune part is you are going to channge the carb to weber and jet...... because if you TEAMRUSH and GROUNDS before you jet the carb...... you will need to rejet the carb again..... that big of an affect....
The
AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l /
AMC 232 i6 cover likes to leak.... they are long, often overtightened, get dished bolt holes, etc.. Lots of leaks can be fixed by just a little snug up before we change the gasket..... STart in center small torque wrench.... ck them first to see if they are loose... The 78 stamped metal valve cover is 61 inch#..... start in center and work your way to ends in a CIRCLE.... go to 25 in# and ck them, then 40 in#, then 50 in#, and do last snug...... if tighter than this already..... get a new gasket, allow you to look at the valve train, rockers, push rods, amount of junk iin there, etc.... The dished holes can be taped flat with small hammer on the end of wood work bench.... just do not over tighten with new gasket... I like the permatex High Tack to hold the gasket to head small dabs in corners and along the length.... Likes to mover.... I use permatex RTV on the valve cover side and circle the holes.... small bead.... the put the cover down carefulll after high tack is holding the gasket in place.... hand tighten do not displace the RTV much.... let sit for 24 hrs then do your torque method discussed.... will not leak if you do this.... Clean all surfaces before you start the gasketing process...
oil pan
same process with oil pan.... 1/4 fasteners 5-9 ft#, and the 5/16" fasteners 9-13 ft#, same circle pattern.... will need to undo and push engine up on the one side to get to fastner.....
good luck
