Hydraulic clutch for $125
jasonmark1993
Old Time Jeeper
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- Location
- El Paso TX
- Vehicle(s)
- FJ cruiser (wifes ride)
2008 ZX10R,
73 CJ5, 408W, Toploader, Dana 20, 9" Dana 30 5.38 gears, next purchase=slicks
All,
Note: following applies to 73' CJ5 , should work on almost all models
These are all new parts; I believe it's the same stuff you'd get as a "KIT" for $200. Just trying to save us all some dough. I came up with these part numbers by googling Advanced Adapters part numbers in conjunction with some part numbers that PurpleCJ posted
Thanks Purple.
I got all the parts from Summit Racing because I wanted them fast. May have been able to do it cheaper elsewhere.
Here are the part numbers from Summit:
AER-FBPA0039-36 Brake hose
DHB-CM106439 Master Cylinder
DHB-CS11956 Slave Cylinder
EAR-591932ERL Required fittings AN3--7/16 inverted flare (comes with two and thats what you need)
I also used 1 female 3/8 24 heim joint at the clutch pedal rod. You'll also need some 3/8 24 all thread, or hack a couple bolts up.
Install from vehicle to vehicle will vary. On my 73', I used a large hole where some wiring was coming through. Had to open it up a little, but that was easy. For the slave, I built a couple brackets.
As for connecting the two pieces to their respective places:
MC: I cut the end off the MC to pedal rod. Did a little measuring, welded on the appropriate length of 3/8 24, screwed the heim joint on. Critical note here is making sure that when the pedal is up or not depressed, all tension is OFF the MC piston. Surprisingly, using the full stroke of my pedal must be exactly what the MC uses (1.5" stroke)
Slave: So this slave, like many, has more travel than the MC. This allows self adjustment. I already knew how much travel my fork needed, but you might want to measure yours before you start. This will help you decide how far forward or back the slave needs to be. Cool thing is, you can just adjust the rod length a little if needed. I used the original "end" of my clutch linkage that went to the fork. On mine, it has 3/8 24 female threads. So once again, did a little measuring, welding, and installed. Make sure you install a spring on the fork. I've seen some "kits" that want you to drill a hole in the fork and bolt the rod on. Not sure why you'd need to do that, guess if my rod falls out I know why. Hasn't yet though.
Final adjustments and checks:
You want to have the throwout bearing about 1/8" from the clutch fingers when not pushing on the clutch pedal. So, while lying under the vehicle (after bleeding and operating clutch) ensure that you have this free play. If you continue to lose your freeplay, the MC piston may be depressed a little so you'll have to fix that. There could be other reasons, but on a new install this is what I expected to find. Check for leaks throughout. I like to put the vehicle in gear, hold the clutch down, and try to start the engine. You could try to put it in gear with the engine running, but if you don't have enough travel, you'll grind. Either way works. I eventually adjusted mine so that the clutch begins to engage about 1" off the floor. Take a look at the slave while the pedal is being depressed and make sure your brackets are stout enough to prevent deflection.
Problem I ran into. Unexpectedly, I kept losing my freeplay. After making sure rod adjustment wasn't a problem, I determined that something was not allowing the fluid from the slave to return to the master. I confirmed this by being able to crack the hydraulic line or bleeder and then I could push the slave back enough to get freeplay. After messing around with adjustment and the clutch pedal rod ( I thought maybe a weird angle was causing the MC piston to be depressed) I removed the MC but left the line connected. Still couldn't push the slave piston back enough without the bleeder open. I then removed the snap ring that retains the MC rod into the MC piston. As Im doing this, I can see the fork spring pull the fork back so I have freeplay. Discovered a manufacturer defect that was holding the MC piston slightly depressed. The picture with the rod and MC separate will show you what I am referring to. Had to grind down the "ball" on the end of the clutch pedal rod. Pretty sure this was a fluke, but something to pay attention to. The system worked fine, but I didn't want to cook my throw out bearing. It was as if someone (female driver) was resting their foot on the clutch pedal all the time.
Just trying to save everyone some dough and make things a little easier. Hit me up with any questions.
Thanks
Note: following applies to 73' CJ5 , should work on almost all models
These are all new parts; I believe it's the same stuff you'd get as a "KIT" for $200. Just trying to save us all some dough. I came up with these part numbers by googling Advanced Adapters part numbers in conjunction with some part numbers that PurpleCJ posted
Thanks Purple.
I got all the parts from Summit Racing because I wanted them fast. May have been able to do it cheaper elsewhere.
Here are the part numbers from Summit:
AER-FBPA0039-36 Brake hose
DHB-CM106439 Master Cylinder
DHB-CS11956 Slave Cylinder
EAR-591932ERL Required fittings AN3--7/16 inverted flare (comes with two and thats what you need)
I also used 1 female 3/8 24 heim joint at the clutch pedal rod. You'll also need some 3/8 24 all thread, or hack a couple bolts up.
Install from vehicle to vehicle will vary. On my 73', I used a large hole where some wiring was coming through. Had to open it up a little, but that was easy. For the slave, I built a couple brackets.
As for connecting the two pieces to their respective places:
MC: I cut the end off the MC to pedal rod. Did a little measuring, welded on the appropriate length of 3/8 24, screwed the heim joint on. Critical note here is making sure that when the pedal is up or not depressed, all tension is OFF the MC piston. Surprisingly, using the full stroke of my pedal must be exactly what the MC uses (1.5" stroke)
Slave: So this slave, like many, has more travel than the MC. This allows self adjustment. I already knew how much travel my fork needed, but you might want to measure yours before you start. This will help you decide how far forward or back the slave needs to be. Cool thing is, you can just adjust the rod length a little if needed. I used the original "end" of my clutch linkage that went to the fork. On mine, it has 3/8 24 female threads. So once again, did a little measuring, welding, and installed. Make sure you install a spring on the fork. I've seen some "kits" that want you to drill a hole in the fork and bolt the rod on. Not sure why you'd need to do that, guess if my rod falls out I know why. Hasn't yet though.
Final adjustments and checks:
You want to have the throwout bearing about 1/8" from the clutch fingers when not pushing on the clutch pedal. So, while lying under the vehicle (after bleeding and operating clutch) ensure that you have this free play. If you continue to lose your freeplay, the MC piston may be depressed a little so you'll have to fix that. There could be other reasons, but on a new install this is what I expected to find. Check for leaks throughout. I like to put the vehicle in gear, hold the clutch down, and try to start the engine. You could try to put it in gear with the engine running, but if you don't have enough travel, you'll grind. Either way works. I eventually adjusted mine so that the clutch begins to engage about 1" off the floor. Take a look at the slave while the pedal is being depressed and make sure your brackets are stout enough to prevent deflection.
Problem I ran into. Unexpectedly, I kept losing my freeplay. After making sure rod adjustment wasn't a problem, I determined that something was not allowing the fluid from the slave to return to the master. I confirmed this by being able to crack the hydraulic line or bleeder and then I could push the slave back enough to get freeplay. After messing around with adjustment and the clutch pedal rod ( I thought maybe a weird angle was causing the MC piston to be depressed) I removed the MC but left the line connected. Still couldn't push the slave piston back enough without the bleeder open. I then removed the snap ring that retains the MC rod into the MC piston. As Im doing this, I can see the fork spring pull the fork back so I have freeplay. Discovered a manufacturer defect that was holding the MC piston slightly depressed. The picture with the rod and MC separate will show you what I am referring to. Had to grind down the "ball" on the end of the clutch pedal rod. Pretty sure this was a fluke, but something to pay attention to. The system worked fine, but I didn't want to cook my throw out bearing. It was as if someone (female driver) was resting their foot on the clutch pedal all the time.
Just trying to save everyone some dough and make things a little easier. Hit me up with any questions.
Thanks
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