Ignition problem

Ignition problem
Electrical problems can be tough to diagnosis, even tougher by long distance.
I've seen the ignition switch on the column go bad.
You could have a burned, broken or internally corroded wire.
As I said before I've seen where a PO has run a wire through the firewall with no grommet & it abraded against bare metal causing a short.
 
It could be in the ignition switch it's self.
That's my bet. that the switch isn't sending voltage to the solenoid.
OK, but i only have one wire going to the right post ( "s" post"...
Remove the small wire going to the solenoid. Have someone turn the key. The jeep wont start but check the voltage going to this disconnected wire. If it isn't getting 12 volts then the problem is before the solenoid, most likely the ignition switch isn't turning on.
 
i guess ill have to dive deeper tomorrow, damn these gremlins are frustrating to stomp out.... all this from a shorted wire off the voltometer...lesson learned i guess.. ill let you all know how it works out tomorrow..hopefully with some good news
 
How bad was the short? Did it possibly fuse 2 wires together? I'd take a good light under the dash with you and look good at the wiring... Something is grounding it sounds like though...

Also, I had a similar problem... Though not from a short...

I took every connection loose from the starting system, (Batt, Solenoid (Replaced this while out), starter, & coil) clean everything up, cleaned all my grounds under the hood. Noticed the 12v post connection had become loose, cleaned and tightened.

Then dropped the ignition switch out, noticed a wire had come loose from a eye hook connection. Soldered all the wire connections and reconnected.

So I had 3 possible culprits, not sure still which caused my issue, but that's what i did to fix it. Haven't had a problem in 2 months so far...

:chug:
~ JR
 
Holy :dung:, so i go out the the jeep this morning with a fresh mindset and a multimeter ready to find this elusive gremlin...

First thing is i wanted to test power to the ignition and work my way back, so i test the power and it reads about 7.5v.. not the 12 im looking for. So i trace it back to the fuse block, disassemble it and start testing, 7.5v, 7.5v, 7.5v.. so i trace that back to the gauge, 7.5v, then test the other post on the gauge, 12v... the fricken gauge was drawing down my power to 7.5v, thats where the gremlin resided...

Moral of the story; dont blame napa for faulty solenoids, haha

Thanks everyone for your input by the way, its good to be a member here! :D
 
And i got my flowmasters in yesterday, so its time to move on!!
 
Yes, if i bypass the gauge it starts right up, something went wrong inside the gauge to draw the power down from 12v to around 7.5v...causing nothing to function properly...dont know why :confused:, but its fixed now
 
And i got my flowmasters in yesterday, so its time to move on!!

Which flowmasters did u get? :rolleyes:

I have 30" glass packs... Loud and deep, but too much chatter when decelerating... ( cherrybombs)
 
2 chamber super 44's, i got a good deal for 2 of em, thought ide give em a try
 
Ok, I know this post is older, and I was hoping that it would help me...but no luck.
I was having problems when I would go to start her. Sometimes it wouldn't do anything when I would try to start her. I would "wiggle the big red wire and she would start up...sometimes it seemed like the starter would crank a little to long.
Yesterday I changed out the solenoid. My battery was almost dead when I went to crank her..and the starter wouldn't stop cranking...even with the key out of the ignition. Eventually I turned the steering wheel..and the starter stopped cranking. Hooked her to the battery charger and let her charge overnight.
Today, with charged battery, I decide to try to start her again. Fired right up......again the starter would NOT stop cranking...but when I turned the key in the off position,this time it did stop.
I have narrowed the problem down to either 1. I didn't put the wires on the correct posts...or 2. My starter is screwy or 3. My ignition is screwy. I THINK that part of it is the wiring to the solenoid. The schematics on here show that the "red wire" TO the starter is on the opposite side of the one from the battery to the solenoid. My old one had a large black cable on one side, and (I thought) two reds on the other. I am lost and confused and thinking from the burning smell and smoke coming from the starter...that the starter will be the next "problem".
ANY help would be great. I can post pics of the wires if it would help the electronically inclined.
Thanks ahead of time.
 
Your wires are crossed somewhere... Sont try to start anymore just yet... You'll start grinding the teeth off flywheel and starter.

Post a pic of your starter solinoid and we'll help u get the wiring figure out...

When u mentioned "turned steering wheel and it stopped" it worries me a little that the short is in the column...

But lets start where its easy.
 
Your wires are crossed somewhere... Sont try to start anymore just yet... You'll start grinding the teeth off flywheel and starter.

Post a pic of your starter solinoid and we'll help u get the wiring figure out...

When u mentioned "turned steering wheel and it stopped" it worries me a little that the short is in the column...

But lets start where its easy.

So, still frustrated, I headed to the garage a few minutes ago. I did figure out that the wire to the coil was on the wrong side of the solenoid. I switched the wires that were on the top (small) posts on the solenoid.
Very reluctantly, I cranked her over and guess what...yep, I had the wires backwards.:bang: She turned over exactly like she should...and I didn't have to wiggle any wires to get her to start. Woohooo. Starter did what it was suppose to and now I feel like a dumb butt.
Thank you very much though....I am SURE that this will not be my only problem I run into. Thank goodness for this forum. (and google) ;)
Tomorrow, figure out where the antifreeze is leaking and why it is never in the overflow. (and it isn't in the oil..pretty sure it is the radiator cap). Then I am going to take the skid plate off and try to find the leak from one of many things under that skid plate...and then clean up the rear axel and figure out where THAT leak is coming from. I may not get my rebuild done before summer, but I do want her mechanically sound.
 

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