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Misc. Jeep Soup's WOT problem.

Misc. Jeep Soup's WOT problem.

Jeep Soup

Jeeper
Donator
Posts
67
Thanks
24
Location
Westfield, Wisconsin
Vehicle(s)
1950 CJ-3A (Stock)
1/4 ton Military Trailer (Stock)
2004 Grand Cherokee (set up for expeditions)
After last year's "Steve's 4x4's Great Adventures Rallye".
After 724 miles of On Road / Off Road driving,
I found several items that needed attention.
But one still was a reoccurring problem. It appears after running for a Good while on the road, it would loose power climbing a grade. If you went to WOT, it would stumble, and if you Let Off to say 3/4 throttle, it would get a little better.
It would act up quicker and worse if the Ambient Temperature was above 80°.

Thinking it was Vapor Lock happening as that Carb is right there above the Exhaust Manifold, and boiling the gas in the carb. I bought and installed a "Heat Shield Plate".
Not as bad, but the problem was still there.

So, I bought a Master Carb Rebuild Kit.
Today, I braved 15°F in the lower barn, and removed the Carb, and Heat Shield Plate.
TaDa !! On the bottom of the Heat Shield Plate is a WITNESS MARK of Black Carbon ever so small, but Ray Charles could have seen it !!
There is a Exhaust Manifold leak coming up on the back side of the Intake Manifold going right at the Carb Base.
If I didn't buy that Heat Shield Plate, I might be still looking for the problem.

Now besides rebuilding the carburetor, it is only more Entertainment to remove a 75 year old Intake and Exhaust Manifold!!!

Ordered the Gaskets, a Heat Riser Kit, (the rear shaft bushing was so worn out I jammed a Spent Rifle Casing into the hole to seal off the exhaust blowing onto the firewall), and Brass Exhaust Nuts.

Any Bets on How many Manifold Studs Break Off ??!!

I will post pics of this calamity.
 
Rebuilt the Carburetor today.
Followed instructions from 3 sources. Instructions included in the rebuild kit. A nice video from Kaiser Willys. And a Original Military service manual.
My Carter WO is a little earlier model, but the parts kit had extra parts to cover the various changes.

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Good Morning AND Happy New Year my fellow Rusty Iron Junkie Friends.
I did a site history search on removing the intake/exhaust manifold on a 134 L engine
and nothing came up.

I am looking for, “past experiences and pitfalls” that others might shed light on,
too save on some Compound Cussing !! I have done manifold work before, and it is NEVER as easy shown in the “Haynes” manuals.

While waiting on gaskets and parts, I soaking the manifold nuts and studs.
Monday with warmer weather, going to Draft some of my Rusty Iron Friends help in moving it from the Lower Barn into my heated shop. (Remember, it has no carb on it now) Feel Free to come help push it out of in Winter Hibernation spot tucked in the Corner. Leinie’s Long Necks and Venison sticks upon a successful maneuver !

Thanks for any suggestions/help.
 
Good Morning.
First the moving of Jeep Soup into the shop from the lower barn was a Success.

Just a note:
Military Omnidirectional Tires are Worthless on Packed Snow or ANYTHING that looks like ice !!!
It kept sliding side to side while pushing it straight. (For future reference, I DO have 4 matching military tire Chains sets for it)

After my friends enjoyed some cheese, venison sausage, and crackers..... chased down with a beer, and went home, I started to tear down the Intake and Exhaust Manifold for removal.

Testing the first manifold to block nut.....sure enough the whole stud is turning out. Pumped the Brakes here, and drained the coolant as the Studs are supposed to go all the way into the water jacket.

While that is draining, started on removing everything else of the manifold.
Moved the fuel line from the pump to the out of the way, and removed the PCV tube and valve.

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Next to remove the Exhaust Pipe.
First flange bolt came out rather easily after breaking it loose.
Now the second one towards the firewall, has been Modified with a Through Bolt with the Nut on the Top Side. Top side wrench, Got It.
But getting at the Bolt Head from the bottom side.......Oil pump, and Steering box are kinda in the way.
So I soaked it over night and will get "Every Swivel Joint, Wobble Extension, and Breaker Bar to get it to "Break Loose".
If that is not going to work.....
Plan B......Air Powered mini Sawzall Tool.

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Next week, I will be going on a Parts Safari looking for this piece. It is missing from the Carburetor. I called it the Throttle Pull Off in the previous post. But in this drawing it is the Choke Link.

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Still learning about this site.
Opened one of those AI generated icons under the post intro.

JUST to Clear Up WOT !!
This is a GEAR HEADS acronym for "Wide Open Throttle" !!
NOT some Facebook jargon of
"Web of Trust"........

Excuse my rant.....

Please,
Toivo, Start the Music, .....
Everybody Dance !!
 
Good Evening.
Been down with a Sinus Head Cold since Thursday.
Finally feeling well enough today to get outside to salt and sand my Driveway. It was a Hockey Rink with the unusual warm weather including over a inch of rain.
Also restarted on the Intake and Exhaust Manifold. Letting everything sit for 4 days, the rear exhaust pipe flange bolt came out nicely.
The rest of the Manifold Nuts all came off too. They were Brass Exhaust Nuts. Only that first one was a Steel Nut. The bottom inside two are a little tough to get at with a Socket and Ratchet, but you can also reach them from behind the Manifold with a Hand Wrench.
Noticed that the rear most stud was showing green coolant on the threads and a little on the side of the block. As mentioned, these pass through into the Water Jacket. So I removed the ones I could "Double Nutting" them. 3 would not budge, so not risking breaking one off, and not seeing any coolant around them left them be.

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Here is the Manifold on the work bench. And a picture of the Black Carbon mark between the Intake and Exhaust.
Note my Spent Rifle Cartage Heat Riser shaft Repair.
The repair kit has new bushings.

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Tomorrow, I should feel well enough to go on a Parts Safari for a couple of things. Again it is to be Unusually Warm.
I will post my Treasures 😁
 
Don't know if anyone is following along here, but here is today's success and failures.

Parts Safari, picked up new Brass manifold nuts, special manifold washers, and a couple of gauges for use in my shop.
BUT No Carb Parts !! And there is only about 1/4 of the Jeep Stuff I remember seeing there. Yard owner said in the last 24 months,
Old Jeep Parts are Flying out of his place. One guy bought ALL the Flat Head and F Head carbs early last spring. I only seen one Flat Head 4 intake, but it was Monkey'd up with a Bolt stuck into it on a 45° angle.

Then ran to O'Reilly's for parts.
Everything was there, and came home.
 
After I got home, sorted some stuff out. Then separated the Intake and Exhaust Manifold.
SURPRISE!! I did soak the Carb Base Stove bolts with PB Blaster since I had it off. And letting it set again overnight.....All the bolts came out with No Compound Cussing or getting the Oxy Acetylene torch out.

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In the previous pix you can see where the gasket burned out.
Cleaned the old Victors Gasket
Off. Here a Trick, it takes a few applications between scraping, use Oven Cleaner. It will really remove old Carbon Build Up FAST Too.

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I did purchase a New Heat Rizer Butterfly kit. Cut out the existing one. Another shop Trick. When cutting metal, if you can, spray "Cutting Oil" into the area where the cut will be, and a little bit as you go along. You be be Surprised at How Fast your cuts will get done.

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Pretty cool old engine.
 
As mentioned before, I had done in the past a Old Farmer's Repair on the rear Heat Rizer Butterfly Shaft missing Bushing.
The idea came from using old 22 cal. Casings as bushings to take up the tolerance on old Carburetor shafts that had worn out aluminum carb bodies. They also made great galley plugs.

Shaft .30, and a 30-30 casing fit both the Shaft and the Bushing Bore. The bore was not 100 % but way better than all that hot exhaust blowing on the Firewall right by the gas pedal.

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Those were the Success's

Here is the Failure.
I will need to take these Manifold pieces to the Machine Shop and have the Intake machined off at the Carb Stove mounting surface.
Two things, first the casting has "Core Shift" in it, and as you can see in the pix with the straight edge, it is not Flush all the way across. The Exhaust side has some rust pits, so I will have them fly cut that too.
Pretty cool old engine.
Thank You,
Ol Skool Basic
Rock Solid Dependable
ALL Torque, No High RPMs
but it is Not A Race Car
Build like a Brick, Look Like a Brick 😂
And 100 % Field Repairable enough to get you to a Hard Top Road.
"It's a JEEP!"

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