Build Thread Jr's 74 CJ5 "fix" and build as I go...
Build Thread Jr's 74 CJ5 "fix" and build as I go...
- Thread starter JR74CJ5
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- Plumas Lake, CA, USA
- Vehicle(s)
- 1974 CJ5 ~ Fresh built AMC 360 - SM420 - D20 - D30F with upgraded 30 spline shafts and knuckles & D44R - 4.27 Gears - ARB Lockers F/R - All chrome molly axles - on 33's - YJ 4" Lift Spring Conversion
So after doing some more reading and talking to another machine shop, I've decided to bite the bullet and pull / disassemble the engine again and bring the rotating assembly down to have it all balanced out.
Shouldn't really be too bad - a new seal kit again and a few beers while wrenching and it should be good to go.
One step backwards, but it should be smooth running after that!
Shouldn't really be too bad - a new seal kit again and a few beers while wrenching and it should be good to go.
One step backwards, but it should be smooth running after that!
007
Crazy Sr. Respected Jeeper
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- #1 - 1977 CJ-7 Renegade (Daisy Jane), Levis trim, 304, TH400, BW1339 (MM), D30/Auburn Max, AMC20/Trac-Lok/G2's, 4.88's, 33" BFG MT KM2's, Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley Sniper 4bbl EFI, MSD6, MSD ProBillet distributor, OME shocks, 4" ProComp lift.
#2 - 1984 CJ-7 Laredo (The Texas Hooker Project - Incomplete/Undecided)
So after doing some more reading and talking to another machine shop, I've decided to bite the bullet and pull / disassemble the engine again and bring the rotating assembly down to have it all balanced out.
Shouldn't really be too bad - a new seal kit again and a few beers while wrenching and it should be good to go.
One step backwards, but it should be smooth running after that!
That sucks BUT better now than later. As you know balance issues become wear issues real quick.
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- Posts
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- Plumas Lake, CA, USA
- Vehicle(s)
- 1974 CJ5 ~ Fresh built AMC 360 - SM420 - D20 - D30F with upgraded 30 spline shafts and knuckles & D44R - 4.27 Gears - ARB Lockers F/R - All chrome molly axles - on 33's - YJ 4" Lift Spring Conversion
Quick update. The balancing was halted due to some abnormal wear on one of the pistons. The machine shop requested I bring them the block to check for "cross-bore". Brought in the block and they owner of the shop seems to think by eyeing the wear pattern in the cylinders that the bore was completed for specs on pistons, not actually measuring pistons for tolerance, and the clearance is too tight...
So now he wants to check it all out and possibly re-bore...
I'm still waiting to see if I need new pistons again too or just re-do work I already paid to have done...
I tried explaining the engine was way off balance and some of that could have been caused by that, but I guess it's best to let the pros figure it out from there...
Still unclear if I'l have a nice new broke in 360 or tired reassembled and installed stock AMC 304 on the Colorado ride this year, but I will still be there either way!
So now he wants to check it all out and possibly re-bore...
I'm still waiting to see if I need new pistons again too or just re-do work I already paid to have done...
I tried explaining the engine was way off balance and some of that could have been caused by that, but I guess it's best to let the pros figure it out from there...
Still unclear if I'l have a nice new broke in 360 or tired reassembled and installed stock AMC 304 on the Colorado ride this year, but I will still be there either way!
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- Location
- Plumas Lake, CA, USA
- Vehicle(s)
- 1974 CJ5 ~ Fresh built AMC 360 - SM420 - D20 - D30F with upgraded 30 spline shafts and knuckles & D44R - 4.27 Gears - ARB Lockers F/R - All chrome molly axles - on 33's - YJ 4" Lift Spring Conversion
As of yesterday, the verdict is in.
Issue one - the cylinder bores were too tight, but manageable. However, sine they have it, it's being corrected. $$
Issue two - one of my new pistons is fried. Option one was wait 2 weeks for $80 for one replacement, option 2 was have a full new set today for $180... I'm inpatient, so whole new set of pistons. $$
Issue three - the piston was fried due to a bent rod (.0015 out) this shop says he'll straighten everything under 20 thousands so we're good - he's straightening...
Issue four - rod and main bearings need replacement from the improper balance and left over shavings from previous engine work I was unaware was not cleaned out (my mistake for not checking, now I know...) - cam bearings are good. $$
Issue 5 - they've balanced the entire rotating assembly - $$
Issue 6 - sold on upgraded rings... guess I don't love my money much...
-
Issue 7 - upon disassembly, not only did I need to now buy a whole new engine seal kit, We also dropped my center-force dual friction clutch disc out of the pressure plate during removal onto the concrete... few cracks scared me so, new clutch disc - $$
Issue 8 - was running a bit hot, so replaced the flex fan since old one had some dis-figuration & new thermostat, and come to find out it was running hot because that piston was acting a fool in my cylinder and causing additional heat - but new fan wont hurt still... $$
I THINK I'm finished with the issues and back on track. "should" have my 360 block and all parts ready to rock and roll tomorrow for my birthday and the re-assembly begins. Should have her running again by tomorrow night / Saturday morning with any luck.
Issue one - the cylinder bores were too tight, but manageable. However, sine they have it, it's being corrected. $$
Issue two - one of my new pistons is fried. Option one was wait 2 weeks for $80 for one replacement, option 2 was have a full new set today for $180... I'm inpatient, so whole new set of pistons. $$
Issue three - the piston was fried due to a bent rod (.0015 out) this shop says he'll straighten everything under 20 thousands so we're good - he's straightening...
Issue four - rod and main bearings need replacement from the improper balance and left over shavings from previous engine work I was unaware was not cleaned out (my mistake for not checking, now I know...) - cam bearings are good. $$
Issue 5 - they've balanced the entire rotating assembly - $$
Issue 6 - sold on upgraded rings... guess I don't love my money much...
- Issue 7 - upon disassembly, not only did I need to now buy a whole new engine seal kit, We also dropped my center-force dual friction clutch disc out of the pressure plate during removal onto the concrete... few cracks scared me so, new clutch disc - $$
Issue 8 - was running a bit hot, so replaced the flex fan since old one had some dis-figuration & new thermostat, and come to find out it was running hot because that piston was acting a fool in my cylinder and causing additional heat - but new fan wont hurt still... $$
I THINK I'm finished with the issues and back on track. "should" have my 360 block and all parts ready to rock and roll tomorrow for my birthday and the re-assembly begins. Should have her running again by tomorrow night / Saturday morning with any luck.
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- Vehicle(s)
- 1983 cj7, 1971 Dart, 1942 Willys slat grill
I love engine buildsSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Posts
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- Location
- Plumas Lake, CA, USA
- Vehicle(s)
- 1974 CJ5 ~ Fresh built AMC 360 - SM420 - D20 - D30F with upgraded 30 spline shafts and knuckles & D44R - 4.27 Gears - ARB Lockers F/R - All chrome molly axles - on 33's - YJ 4" Lift Spring Conversion
So I'm upgrading to the dual contour fans. Have ordered a new replacement contour fan unit with resistor for low speed, connectors to fans and resistor, a 2 temp switch from BMW, and adapter from metric to NPT threads for that, and 2 75AMP relays.
Plan is to have the 2 stage switch kick the low fan speed on through the resistor @ 80 degrees C (according to old jeep forum thread that was 180 degrees F - actually 176 per calculator online...) and the high speed bypassing the resistor will kick on if / when the temp gets to 88 degrees C (again according to the thread I read that would be 195 degrees F, actually 190 degrees).
Here was what I got from jeep forum thread:
BMW 91 / 99* C (195/210*F) dual temp switch; RockAuto Part # 61311378073
or
BMW 80 / 88* C (180/195*F) dual temp switch; RockAuto Part # 61318361787
Thread: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/fan-control-solved-cheap-re-contour-fan-swap-1503789/
I'll wire in a manual kill switch to stop the fans, and may eventually wire in a manual high over-ride switch to cool while shut off, or in case of auto function failure.
That's next on the list before Colorado...
Plan is to have the 2 stage switch kick the low fan speed on through the resistor @ 80 degrees C (according to old jeep forum thread that was 180 degrees F - actually 176 per calculator online...) and the high speed bypassing the resistor will kick on if / when the temp gets to 88 degrees C (again according to the thread I read that would be 195 degrees F, actually 190 degrees).
Here was what I got from jeep forum thread:
BMW 91 / 99* C (195/210*F) dual temp switch; RockAuto Part # 61311378073
or
BMW 80 / 88* C (180/195*F) dual temp switch; RockAuto Part # 61318361787
Thread: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/fan-control-solved-cheap-re-contour-fan-swap-1503789/
I'll wire in a manual kill switch to stop the fans, and may eventually wire in a manual high over-ride switch to cool while shut off, or in case of auto function failure.
That's next on the list before Colorado...
- Posts
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- 1983 cj7, 1971 Dart, 1942 Willys slat grill
That stuff is fun, I love getting to go thru junk yards
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- Posts
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- Location
- Plumas Lake, CA, USA
- Vehicle(s)
- 1974 CJ5 ~ Fresh built AMC 360 - SM420 - D20 - D30F with upgraded 30 spline shafts and knuckles & D44R - 4.27 Gears - ARB Lockers F/R - All chrome molly axles - on 33's - YJ 4" Lift Spring Conversion
Update - Lifted her a bit further, and new paint job courtesy of Rustolium rattlers and windy afternoon...
Also had to build a new mount for the "new style" Jerry cans - old one took one to many rocks to the butt and didn't make it...
Now there's a 3/16" frame around the bottom that should help. Looks too shinny though, shoulda rubbed it in the dirt first...
Ready for Rubicon Trip!
Also had to build a new mount for the "new style" Jerry cans - old one took one to many rocks to the butt and didn't make it...
Now there's a 3/16" frame around the bottom that should help. Looks too shinny though, shoulda rubbed it in the dirt first... Ready for Rubicon Trip!
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deibvt, fyi (easier) - you can click 'Watch' at the top of the thread without replying.
CJ
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Great you found it. Tapatalk works but some times the links are moved around or missing. Example, all the extra links in the Navbar do NOT show and Tapatalk responded they will not work on it. So with Tapatalk, no Classifieds, Donations, Support and more.
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CJ
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CJ
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Let me know what I can do, anything for members.
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Just looked - now I understand why you related to Irontalk man.
Black Sabbath all the way...
Black Sabbath all the way...
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You're doing great CJ. I spent a few bucks for the Tapatalk membership to get me through the growing pains of the new site. Just saying that I don't need it anymore.
You're doing an awesome job of keeping this great site alive. Better than I could ever do!
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