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Junkyard Tuned Port Injection For AMC 360

Junkyard Tuned Port Injection For AMC 360
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Good thread. You have a long road ahead of you though. Few things...

I'm surprised you didn't rework a PROM just for initial firing given how far the timing table is off. 10 CIs is negligible, and displacement is just one tiny variable in a system of many. The biggest problem I see for you is that the spark tables will be way off for your AMC cast iron heads vs. the performance (at the time) aluminum heads on Corvettes of early 90's vintage. If the injectors aren't stock for a 350 Chevy or close, your fuel tables will be off as well.

The vette timing table is probably not quite aggressive enough at high loads (the aluminum heads need way less total timing) but WAYYY too aggressive at medium/low loads, i.e. where you drive the most. Lots of newbs to tuning think they can swap in vette tables only to discover they get almost constant knock counts and retard under any sort of engine load. So the current table needs to go.

Try to find a spark table from a bin from an application with non-swirl port, non-fast burn, cast iron heads as a starting point. like the 84 vette maybe. IIRC they started going aluminum in 86 (there was no 85) and thats when the tables started changing a lot vs. the stuff from the early 80s. Even the 84 table will probably need to be dialed down a bit but it should be much much closer than what you have now.

Now this timing issue is being exacerbated because you are currently at 10BTC as you describe it. I assume static w/ the proper lead disconnected, and not while the motor is running under ECM timing control at idle, right? The bin is probably "expecting" 0-6BTC, so all your timing is up to 6 degrees more advanced now, and the timing was already way over the top for your heads. The ECM can't measure timing, except relative to where it thinks you have the distributor bolted down. It expects the static timing configured in the BIN matches that of the distributor and makes all its timing decisions based on that assumption. You need to fix this first. If you need any tuning advice shoot me a PM. I'm pretty sure I have some iron smog head bin files around you can use as a starting point.


I think I have a little more insight one what was going on with the Timing. I got almost everything in its permanent situations today and was able to run the engine long enough to put a timing light on the engine. I initially set it the crank to 10 BTDC when I got the light on it, it was sparking after TDC. I rotated the diz until it was just before the 5 BTDC. Im not sure why the timing was so retarded when I lined it up with the dizz pickup but My theory is that it has something to do with the lock out of the vac and mechanical advance on the dist. I followed the bustedjeep TBI thread on how to lock out the diz and I am thinking that maybe that has something to do with it.

It is all set by the timing light now so should be good to go. Next step is to get an exhaust installed with the o2 sensor bung so I can get some good readings.
 
Well I am not feeling to good about the project currently. I finally got the jeep back from an exhaust shop. What sucks is I was driving the jeep to move it around the yard no problem and I towed it to the shop and started it no issues and drove it into a parking spot. The mechanic said that it wouldnt start when they tried to pull it into the shop so they had to push it. No idea what could have changed in 3 days of just sitting.

Then he told me after it was done they were able to drive it out. I thought phew ok good to go. When I got there the mechanic said it doesn't run well. Which I thought yeah fair enough it needs programming. Well he wasn't kidding I started it and it drives way way way worse than it did when I brought it in. I don't know if it is because its like 15 degrees out or what but it drove fairly decent two weeks ago and now it has no power, shakes like crazy, and feels almost like you are trying to start off in 5th gear.

Im just getting a little frustrated, as the project seems to be going backwards and it is a little to cold for me to be doing diagnosis since I dont have a garage to work out of.
 
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Still no dice on the project. I have checked everything I can think of and it just wont start. I thought after the exhaust install it would be time to get into the tuning but for some reason it got worse and I am left scratching my head and unable to work on the truck in this cold weather.

Its just so weird how it ran fairly strong and then just sputtered off an died. Seems like a problem I'd expect with a carb.
 
Ok so I have this project back on the reservation. Today just as I was calling it a day I got the engine to fire and idle. Not sure what the problem was after all these months of trouble shooting but over the course of this ordeal I changed the plugs, the Ignition module, the MAP sensor, pulled the dist and reset the timing a thousand times and replaced the ECM.

When it fired up today i found that my timing was way too advanced, So either something is up with my timing mark location/chain or I really need to revisit my ESC mod to the HEI dist.

My theory is that somehow the exhaust show fried the vette ecm while welding the pipe, since my first reaction was to reset the timing I must have been way off so when I did all my other trouble shooting it still wouldnt fire. Just a bunch of compounding issues.

Now that it is running I will set the timing by the light and make sure everything is working right. Then I will swap back in the original ecm and see if it works or if dies again.
 
All I can say is WOW :notworthy:
 
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