kc light issues?

[54cj3b]

Run you power led to the battery with a fusible link , that should take most of the strain off the alternator , You also should make a good ground for the lights. this should most likely solve your problem.

 

[fzsk4p]

These are the lights i installed

KC HiLiTES 634 Daylighter -6 In Black 130w Driving Beam Off Road Light System (Pair)[/QUOTE|

Looked it up. That is 130 watts total. 65 watts per light.

So we are looking at just over 9 amps. 20 amps would have been with 2 x 130W lights.

The stock alternator should be able to handle that.
IF it is working properly.

 

[mylittlecj5]

Looks like I missed a good discussion! I am glad you found the problem, But with just those lights added you really don't need a HI output ALT. I have a winch and the 2 off-road lights, and my ALT is probably only a 30 or 45 amp unit. Unless you drive for a long time with the big lights on, your charge system should be able to handle it. The bigger unit will give peace of mind, tho. And thats always a good thing.

 

[fzsk4p]

Yes KC lights have a relay. main power to relay is hooked to fuse panel in fuse hole marked cruise control. main ground is bolted to the fuse panel main bolt. switch is grounded to the underside of dash with self tap screw.

I checked my volts at the battery here are the read outs

engine off 12.40v
engine at idle 11.97v
engine at idle with KC lights on 11.74v
engine at 2000 RPMs 11.98v
engine at 2000 RPMs W/ KC lights on 11.74v
engine at idle with headlights, heater fan, engine fan, radio, & KC lights 11.48v

KC HiLiTES 634 Daylighter -6 In Black 130w Driving Beam Off Road Light System (Pair)[/QUOTE|

Looked it up. That is 130 watts total. 65 watts per light.

So we are looking at just over 9 amps. 20 amps would have been with 2 x 130W lights.

The stock alternator should be able to handle that.
IF it is working properly.

Now if we take the same 130 watts (65 per light) and apply the formula

amps = watts divided by volts.

Taking your numbers that you measured. 11.7 volts. I rounded it down to 11.5 volts. The amp draw is now approaching 12 amps. A 3 amp increase because of the lower voltage.

Remember nomiual automotive voltage is 14.0

 

[herritage11b]

I havent had time to pull the alternator yet, but i did have to drive it monday since georgia got an ice storm who would of thought. Any ways Warmed up engine at idle for about 15 min the volt of my volt meter was at 11v. I got down the road about 3 min and the jeep started shuting off again. Restarted it three times and on the third try the volts jumped to 13volts. The jeep ran fine the next 50 miles and maintained 13 volts the whole time. When i left work that evening started out again with 11 volts jeep stumpled and i restarted and all off a sudden i got 13 volts again. drove 50 miles home no problem.
So the jeep is shutting off when the voltage reads 11 volts but fine when its working on 13volts. oh and i never turned the lights on so ive eleminated them out of the problem for now. Now the question is do i have an alternator going out or is it a wiring issue. I was reading and saw the small wire is supposed to be ran through a Alternator indicator light and a resisted wire of up to 10 ohms. I do not have an indicator light that comes on when my alternator voltage drops below the battery voltage. I have one small wire that come off the alternator that is hooked to a wiring harness( besides the main wire that goes to the batt). Im going to try and chase that down.

 

[mylittlecj5]

Take your Jeep to an auto parts store and have them test the charging system. Its FREE and will tell you if the ALT is bad. Make sure they know exactly what has been going on, and shake the wiring harness while he is doing the test. That should narrow the problem down a lot faster than us guessing for ya.

You might also have a look at your ignition switch. Some of them can loose contact intermittently and cause strange problems.

 

[herritage11b]

Yeah this weekend im planning on puting the volt meter back on it and do some wire shaking. I think as long as i get it to act up i can trace the problem. I was thinking the ignition switch may have a short also. Tried wiggling it around and gave it some good old beating when it was acting up going down the road to see if i could jar it to 13 volts but didnt seem to change it.

 

[IOPort51]

I think the voltage regulator is giving it up. IMHO

 

[BusaDave9]

Your electrical system can't keep the battery charged.
It is most likely the alternator but it could be as simple as the belt. You may have already checked the belt. Is it loose. If it slips it would give these symptoms. The alternator can't work if it isn't turning.
If the belt is fine then bring your alternator in as mylittlecj5 said. Have it tested.
The alternator should put out 14 volts. The battery should have 12 volts. If you are lower than that you are running on a battery that has been discharging. At 11 volts your engine is stalling.

 

[BusaDave9]

I think the voltage regulator is giving it up. IMHO

Yes
Good idea
The regulator is built into the alternator. Bring the alternator in and they can test it.
But first just make sure it isn't as simple as a loose belt.

What we all know is that your charging system can't keep up. You are using up more power than your alternator can produce. If the belt is turning the alternator as fast as the engine then the problem is your alternator (or it's built-in regulator).

 

[bdunnam]

Well it definatly sounds like the regulator, they aren't expensive or difficult to replace. If you have a really good voltmeter, there is supposedly a way that you can ohm out your regulator and that should tell you whether or not it is working properly. I had the same problem except mine would jump between 11 and 16 volts like crazy.