Locker advice

[Lumpy Grits]

JM-What is stamped on the flat section on the right side of the housing to the right of the cover. Should be 1 or 2 letters.
Lockers have the best manners, when the tires are the exact same psi on the axle.
LG

 

[jp360cj]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you have a trac lock (Limited slip). Not sure if you decided on a locker/LS yet, but I don't think lunchbox lockers will work with the TL carrier.

 

[jmbridges]

Thanks all. Some follow up ?s:

So torxhead, would you rec a higher ratio - 4.27, 4.58?

LG, I have looked at that before, thought I had taken a pic but can't find on my phone, will check and let you know. I think that's what led me to believe I had 2.73 gears

JP, would that have been OE or added after the fact? I may just want to keep that as I am leaning toward an LS. Would I be able to swap gears and keep the trac lol?

Thanks for the replies all!


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[Lumpy Grits]

Trac-loc was OEM, and almost useful. You're gonna have to buy new carriers anyways.......
4 speed w/33's, a 3:54-3:73 R&P would work very well.

LG

 

[jmbridges]

Trac-loc was OEM, and almost useful.

LG

[emoji16] - so I take it you would rec swapping it out for something else if that's what I have?

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[Lumpy Grits]

[emoji16] - so I take it you would rec swapping it out for something else if that's what I have?

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Yeah-The TL is pretty weak and clutches don't last long.
Be a good time to go to Moser 1-piece axles in the rear.
These hold up well-
Limited Slip Differential - Auburn Gear | JEGS

LG

 

[jmbridges]

Thanks for the rec. yeah, I have moser one piece axles ready to go in


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[jmbridges]

Thanks all. Some follow up ?s:

So torxhead, would you rec a higher ratio - 4.27, 4.58?

LG, I have looked at that before, thought I had taken a pic but can't find on my phone, will check and let you know. I think that's what led me to believe I had 2.73 gears

JP, would that have been OE or added after the fact? I may just want to keep that as I am leaning toward an LS. Would I be able to swap gears and keep the trac lol?

Thanks for the replies all!


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So the code on the axle is "DD" which confirms this has a track Lok with 2.73 gears, so I'll be swapping that out.

Need some help with the rear axle shaft. As mentioned, swapping for one piece mosers, got the left out no problem, but right is stuck.

Tried removing hub first - which I did on left - but it broke my puller:

I had read that you can pull axle shaft without removing hub, but I can't seem to get that to work either. Have a slide hammer. What exactly needs to be removed before axle shaft will slide off?

Thanks

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[Lumpy Grits]

What brand puller?
My Snap-on puller, has done dozens with no tool damage.
When you have the puller under heavy strain with the hub.
Take a BFH and SMACK the outside edge of the hub.
LG

 

[jmbridges]

It's not a snap on, but it wasn't cheap either. Hoping company will replace.

Is your advice to remove the hub? Can I remove the hub and axle as one piece? If so, what has to be removed prior to doing so?

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[Lumpy Grits]

Easier to remove hub with axle in place, in the axle housing.
Start soaking the hub spline area(both sides)with penetrating oil. May need to remove the axle nut for this.
LG

 

[jmbridges]

Thanks

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[mriplaybass]

We had the same problem doing an AMC20 last year. It seemed that the more force that we applied, the more stubborn the axle was. Ultimately, what worked was, after soaking the bearing with penetrating oil, as Lumpy stated, was to get a couple of large screwdrivers or pry bars behind the backing plate, one on each side, and pry while someone else whacked the hub flange from behind. Once the axle starts to move, you might need to put a small block of wood under the pry bar to maintain leverage. After working on these axles for several hours, once we took this approach, the axles slid out in a matter of minutes. Pry only as much as will not distort the backing plate.

 

[jmbridges]

We had the same problem doing an AMC20 last year. It seemed that the more force that we applied, the more stubborn the axle was. Ultimately, what worked was, after soaking the bearing with penetrating oil, as Lumpy stated, was to get a couple of large screwdrivers or pry bars behind the backing plate, one on each side, and pry while someone else whacked the hub flange from behind. Once the axle starts to move, you might need to put a small block of wood under the pry bar to maintain leverage. After working on these axles for several hours, once we took this approach, the axles slid out in a matter of minutes. Pry only as much as will not distort the backing plate.

Thanks, I'll keep working at it then. Just frustrating after other axle came out just as it should have


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[mriplaybass]

Ya, we actually thought that we were going to have to call off a group trail ride because the axle would not come out. But a little gentle persuasion, and the trail ride was back on! Good luck!

 

[jmbridges]

Success! Got the hub off today, axle pulled out, so good to go. Ended up buying a new puller - an OTC - much beefier than the other I had - brand was CTA tools - and pulled the hub right off. Price difference was minimal, should have just gotten this one in the first solace. I included a pic to show the difference between the arms of the 2. Anyway, have a little rust removal and painting to do on the rear of that side of the chassis now that everything is out of the way, and then I will be on to the rear differential, installing the new one piece axles, and installing the last of the new yj springs. Getting there slowly but surely, appreciate the help.

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