locker instal- shaft/pin removal question

[rbagley]

Hey guys. I am not super familiar with all the parts of the differential but am trying to install a lunchbox locker in my AMC20 . Directions say that it isn't super hard. I have rebuilt engines, but this is my first time inside a differential.

Trying to use the proper terms here... I am having trouble getting the pinion (spider gear) shaft out [Labeled Pin B in the picture]. It looks as if there is a little pin that is keeping the big pin (pinion shaft) from moving [I labeled the small pin Pin A].

On YouTube I was looking at lunchbox installations and the little pin [Pin A] had a head on it that can be backed out (different axle though).

How do you get this little pin out? Can I hit it towards the pinion shaft? I stuck a center punch inside it and there is no way to drag it out.

My AMC20 is currently on jacks by itself, so it would be a lot easier to get this lunchbox figured out and in before I bolt it back to the frame.

Help me out if you can. Thanks in advance.
Rick

 

[CJim7]

Yes sir, that roll pin holds the cross shaft in place.
And I cant remember if that pin hole goes all the way through the carrier or not...If so, just drive it all the way through.
If not, a nice little trick to these is to carefully rotate a small wood screw into it and tap it out using the screw head.

 

[CJ007]

Yep, it does go all the way through you should even be able to push through pretty easy, even with something as simple as a screwdriver and hammer.

 

[rbagley]

Yep, it does go all the way through you should even be able to push through pretty easy, even with something as simple as a screwdriver and hammer.

I am not sure what is on the other side...if this pin would have made it through or not- I couldn't believe how long it was. I was determined to pull it out rather than push it through just because I was scared that I wouldn't get it back if it didn't work as planned.

The first screw was too small, it pulled right out. The second one ended up snapping off at the head, but still was able to get it out by prying against the Vicegrips that were clamped on the threads. I love Vicegrips- probably one of my favorite tools. I have about 12 pairs in different sizes

Figured I would post a few pictures for the next guy.

I had a snow day today (6" in MI combined with ice over night) so tomorrow (Sat) will be free to put the new locker in. My progress on the whole Jeep is being documented on the build forum. 82CJ7 frame & lift build

Thanks guys for the advice! I am pretty excited to make some progress. I did this today while I was waiting for the welds to cool down on the new leaf spring perches I replaced today.

 

[CJ007]

Ah, I didn't pay much mind but saw you left the carrier in. It might not have been as easy to push through. It just comes out the other side but cjim was right on.

I still find vicegrips quite helpful myself on occasion .

 

[rbagley]

saw you left the carrier in.

CJ007 - Can I take the carrier out without any technical skills? Do I just need to take the 4 bolts out (which will allow me to take the caps off the bearings)? ...as long as I keep track of the bolts, caps and bearings- making sure I put them back in the same spots and tighten them to specs when I am done.

Is there anything else I need to make sure of? Do I have anything to worry about with the ring gear or anything?

I didn't know if I could just take it out or if it would have to be professionally lined back up. I have Limited knowledge with these (as you can see).

Thanks for your input.
Rick

 

[CJ]

Yes, you can pull the carrier. As you stated, mark the caps so they go back the way they were removed, this includes the side and orientation. It can be a little difficult to py out and put back in as the pumpkin compresses the bearings for preload, but a few pry bars can get it out and a dead blow will help you put it back.

 

[CJim7]

I use a prybar to remove the carrier. Like CJ said, keep correct orientation of the caps and bolts. This is a great time to inspect the bearings, be careful re-installing so as not to chip the ring and pinion teeth.

 

[CJ007]

This may be a little more than you asked for but here goes

You can do it in while the carrier is in, but either way you have to slide the axles shafts out at least 3-4" to remove the spider gears once you pull the gear cross shaft. Based on pic above (maybe its old) it hasn't been done yet. Pull out a little more if you are pulling carrier. Also read your instructions, but I am pretty sure on a lockright locker you will put the spider washers back in before installation. On the other brands I don't think you do but the instructions should tell you an approximate measurement (final range) you should be shooting for between the two pieces of the locker that open and close with the springs and pins. If you have them too tight or too loose you risk breaking the pins, full time lock or lots of noise and popping when they disengage.

The thrust washers on each side of carrier are large and flat and act as as a shim. Spider gear washers are not flat and are shaped to fit over spider gear.

This pic of spider setup is from a 9" so not exactly the same but very close.



If you pull the carrier it is a little more work but easier to get you hands in there to set up.

As mentioned, put the bolts, caps, etc back in the same place, as well your thrust washer and the regular shims, if any (very thin thrust type washers to set teeth mesh). There shouldn't be shims unless it was regeared or carrier was changed from original from what I recall. Tighten back to specs, they are large bolts but I think it was like 30lbs? Don't take my word on that but it's also good to put some lokctite on the bolts too.

 

[rbagley]

Re: locker installation completed...I think

One of the posts I came across while doing my "research" was a thread about axle seal replacement. It sounded like either way I was going to have to get the axles back a touch (like CJ007 said) and I needed to know how to do that.

CJ posted this in 2009.
"You don't have to pull the hub to remove the complete axle assembly. I have pulled the assembly off of a 20 with out pulling the hub.

unbolt the 4 backing plate bolts. Take a brake drum and slid it over the hub so the drum is on BACKWARDS. You want the opening facing away from the brakes... Put on three lug nuts, but only screw them on a few threads... Now you have an instant slide hammer, just push the drum against the axle and yank it to the outside. The force of a few blows should be enough to break loose the bearing pack and pull the axle."

Read more: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/axle-seal-replacement-2241/#ixzz1jUML66Mo

CJ- The trick with the drum being the slide hammer was brilliant!

All the work was in getting the axles back. It wasn't hard work necessarily, but time consuming removing the nuts and bolts with the brake shoes & hardware all there. Sad thing is that 1 week ago I had the brakes completely stripped.

Once the axles were pulled back, I didn't bother taking the carrier out. It worked for me to put the locker in with the carrier still in.

I realized part way through that the locker has two flat spots for a reason. For a bit I was thinking that it was just a little too big till I realized I needed to orient it differently.

I actually had to take the locker back out after I thought I was completely finished. I was looking at the diagram on the instructions and realizing that I didn't put the doughnut looking spacer back in the center.

My ring gear was close to the same size as the opening, it actually helped me keep the springs in the locker compressed so that I could slide it in.
There was a label of 154 on it. I have read in other forums that this somehow tells me what my Jeep is geared. I'll have to read again.


Turning it by hand while the axle is on jackstands, they are staying locked together. I imagine it takes a little bit of force to get the springs to compress and click to let the wheels turn at different speed. At least I am hoping that is the case and not something I jicked up.

Thanks again guys for your help. I am learning a lot as I go. It really helps having y'all explain things for me.



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