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Need Axle Advice

Need Axle Advice

alabamaboy54

Jeeper
Posts
191
Thanks
0
Location
Alabama
Vehicle(s)
1985 cj-7.
258 I6
T-176 w/ D300
D30/AMC20
Ok guys. I received a lot of useful information in a last post that I put up on here only to realize that the axles I was asking about wouldnt work for me anyways. This is where I realized I was a little unprepared. I have a 1985 CJ7 with a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l I6, T-176 tranny, and a Dana 300 Transfer Case . I am currently still on stock Dana 30 / AMC20 axles. I plan on doing moderate offroading with minimal street driving (max of about 45mph for a few miles). I want to swap in bigger, stronger axles under my jeep. I am looking to run a 35-36 inch tire with probably at least a locker in the front (most likely an aussie or lock-rite style). I need advice on what axles I should be looking for that will both suit my needs but still not be extremely hard to make work. Im not scared to do modifications I would just prefer to keep it as minimal as possible as I am new to all this. I know this information is all out there but I am getting overloaded with it all. So any advice or recommendations on a good axle setup or what vehicles I should look to pull them out of would be very very helpful. Thanks in advance guys
 
with your jeep being a 85 it should have cj wide trak axles in it now.
There isn't anything out there that is the same width as yours,
so the question is how much wider do you want to go, or do you want
to cut them down to size?
Also are you staying spring under axle or do you plan to go spring over?
 
with your jeep being a 85 it should have cj wide trak axles in it now.
There isn't anything out there that is the same width as yours,
so the question is how much wider do you want to go, or do you want
to cut them down to size?
Also are you staying spring under axle or do you plan to go spring over?

It does have widetracs in it and I dont want my new axles to be ridiculously wide but I would like at least a little increase in width for stability. I do not plan on cutting them down to size. Im wanting to go to spring over with maybe stock yj springs, I think anyways.
 
I have an 83 CJ7 with a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , T-18 and a Dana 20 Transfer Case with the Tera Low set up. I run 35 x 13.50 x 15' BFG Crawlers and I wheel pretty hard. I am still running the stock Dana 30 front housing. I welded the tubes, upgraded the axles and installed Warn hubs, 4:56 gears and a LockRight. I have been running that set up in the front now for about 8 years. Other than one broke LockRight I have had no problems. I am very happy with it.

When we first built the Jeep I ran the AMC20 stock rear housing. I welded the tubes and installed one piece shafts, a Detroit locker and 4:56 gears. I ran that for about 3 years and I bent the passenger side tube. If I had trussed the housing also I bet it would not have bent and I would still be running that set up today. I now have a Ford 9 inch in it's place.

The AMC20 can be a good axle if you beef it up.
 
Ok. just so you know your axles are app. 54 1/2" for the rear and 56" for the front.
On front axles the spring pearch is part of the pumpkin casting so if you want soa you need to start with something that came soa factory.
Chevys and some dodges are probably your best bet here. But if you only cut the drivers side you end up somewhere around 65" wide, cut both sides and around 61" or so. You don't want to get any shorter than 61" or you will start getting the tire rubbing on the spring. (this is based on keeping the springs in the stock location, and not outboarinng them)
If you look for an older chevy or dodge Dana 44 look for the 70's or so with factory high steer knuckles since thats the best way to go soa.
Any rear can be made to work just be sure to keep the same lug bolt pattern. (chevys will have 6 lug bolts for 1/2 tons, 8 for 3/4 and 1 tons)
If you ever plan to go bigger on the tires look for D60's now before you spend any money on 44's, 35's or 36's is about all they can handle.
 
I run 35s and do fine. I did a cheap build over several months. The truss and welding the tubes are the cheapest part. I picked up 3/8 steel from a steel supply house. Cost me less than $20 for a piece. I just ask them to go through their scrap pile.
 
So realistically I could stick with my stock axles and run a 33-35 inch tire perfectly fine if I do some upgrades. I must have had some bad information because beforehand I had heard that my stock axles werent worth keeping if I planned on offloading any. If I can just keep my stock axles that would probably be a lot easier for me as I am no expert on these things. I do however have 2.73 gears front and rear. If I wanted to run say 4.10 gears and a 33-35 would I be better off just upgrading the axles I have now?
 
I think if you plan on running 33s you can beef up what you have to handle them just fine. Unless you are going to swap to big horse power and big tires and go rock crawling you will be fine.
 
I ran my 35's for some time on 2.73's, but its inevitable you will break u joints and spin those two piece stock axles. You can usually get home on one shaft. You will break because you are not geared low and those bigger tires will hook up and grab while turning fast.

I think I paid $50 for my RP for the rear, $100 for the front. If you have patience you will finds 20 parts and wholes axles with some upgrades pretty cheap. If you don't do the gearing yourself (if you do it is preferable you have someone to help that does know how) then that may be the most expensive part.

Luchbox lockers come up regularly for $100-AMC 150 . A new one is $250-300.

It is possible you could just buy a better axle if you pay someone to do everything or buy parts new. But I enjoyed building mine and did it in over a some time so it didn't hurt my wallet. Would I have been happier to have a 44 or better to start with, sure, but I am now still set up enough to do anything up to a tubed buggy trail where you have to put your vehicle on its side. And I like that it still looks like a Jeep, not a parts pile :), so I am not going bigger.

A** In Seat Time also helps :D
 
I think if you plan on running 33s you can beef up what you have to handle them just fine. Unless you are going to swap to big horse power and big tires and go rock crawling you will be fine.

I really wanted to go a little bigger but Im starting to think that for the time being 33s is where Ill be best off. for now anyways.
Any recommendations on how to go about building these axles up? Brands and parts and whatnot that people out there have had good luck with?
 
If your thinking of using the AMC20 , weld the tubes to the center section
add a truss and 1 piece axles, and keep an eye on the spring pearches.
The only weak spot in the Dana 30 is the small axle u-joints, I'd up grade to axles with the larger 760 axle joint.
For axles I like Superior, Moser or yukon, I've heard 10 factory is good also.
 
If your thinking of using the AMC20 , weld the tubes to the center section
add a truss and 1 piece axles, and keep an eye on the spring pearches.
The only weak spot in the Dana 30 is the small axle u-joints, I'd up grade to axles with the larger 760 axle joint.
For axles I like Superior, Moser or yukon, I've heard 10 factory is good also.

Thanks. Im pretty sure Im going to keep what I have now, just do the work to them (trussing, upgraded shafts n such). I appreciate all the help and advice from you guys
 
I have trussed and stitched front and rear wide track Dana 30 AMC20 with all yukon chromo axles with bigger ujoints and one peace mosure axles in rear Detroit lockers front and rear warn primium hubs poison spider diff cover
And crane diff cover, I also have new heavy duty tie rod and drag link, all with less than 5000 street miles and 100 4x4 miles.

For sale. Cheaper than building your own.
 
Since it is the holiday season I'll be nice. For sale items belong ind the classified section, understand?
 
Be careful you don't want to piss dad off :D Merry Christmas CJ :chug:
 

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