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I have acquired a 1979 narrow track CJ7 . I want to do significant modification to this Jeep, beginning with replacing the axles with wider track Dana 44 's. I see that there are several shops on the web that can do custom work for me. Also, I know that many have gotten Dana 44 's from older vehicles and modified them. I don't know whether at the end of the day, it's cheaper to work with old axles or to just order what I want. Looking for those who have experience with this and possibly some suggestions as to what older vehicles might have the axles that would work. I am able to weld, cut steel, etc.
I too looked at whether to use axles from another vehicle or just get new from a shop. I decided to go with the Dana489 from East Coast Gear Supply to replace the rear AMC20 . Heavier duty, custom setup, disc brakes, 99% plug-and-play.
1986 CJ7 Laredo:
258 w/Howell TBI, HEI Ign., Dana 44 Front w/Detroit, Dana 44 Rear w/Discs & Detroit,
NP435 Trans, Dana 300 T-case w/twin stick
1969 Bronco:
351W, D44 high pinon front from full size, 9” full size rear, NP435 trans and Dana 20
You’re gonna get a ton of info on this site, as a lot of us have done axle upgrades. The search function is great for this.
I’ve done axle upgrades on 2 CJs and helped my Father with his CJ as well.
1. 1979 CJ5 : '70s Ford 9" rear and '70s Scout II front Dana 44 .
2. 1986 CJ7 : '70s Scout II rear and '70s Wagoneer Dana 44 front (you can see the details for this in my build thread on this site).
3. 1976 CJ5 : '80s Ford F350 D60 high pinion in the rear and same D60 for the front.
The Dana 60s are quite a bit more work and will be harder/more expensive to obtain and build. Probably overkill for most people's purposes.
I'd lean towards the Dana 44 or Ford 9" personally. I priced up a front Dana 44 from the same East Coast Gear Co. and for my purpose it was about 50% cheaper to do it myself. Of course, it depends on the cost of the donor axle and mine were free. The front end will obviously cost more than the rear, regardless of d.i.y or just purchasing.
1970s Jeep Wagoneers/Cherokee/Chiefs/J-Trucks are common donors. Also, 1970s Scout II had 'em. These are the easiest route too if you're staying with spring under axle.
D44s were also in 1970s Chevy 1/2 & 3/4-ton trucks and I believe Dodge used 'em too in their trucks and Wagons, but I'm not too sure of the vintage range. However, the Chevy and Dodge have spring over axle and will complicate things a bit if you don't want that, because the spring perch is cast into the center diff housing.
The rear Dana 44 can be obtained from the 1970s Scout IIs or again the same vintage Wagoneers as above, excluding the QuadraTrac rears which do not have the pinion in the center. These are good candidates because the widths are just about right if you're going for a wider track around 60". I think Isuzu and Honda SUVs used the Dana 44 too in the 90s, but I don't know much about these guys.
Ford 9" are plentiful because they were used forever and they're a fairly easy swap into the rear of a CJ. Look for a 60s-70s 1/2-ton truck which have about the right wide track width of around 60".
I am still humming and hawing on my axle build eh Been told to go D 44, reinforced moser axles etc I have had a Performance Driveline shop spec me 9" Ford nodular axle set wide track . Built for overkill apocolypse. Steering much beefier... Combat vet eh alwals thinking ahead. Looked into ARB front diff 4.33 gears to match new 5spd and 33" tires for 50/50 trail/ highway. Deep breath now eh $10,000 me not supplying said axles, and not installed. Lol still a less expensive build than my 93 1st Gen W250 lifted for 40's Am laughing, but crying too eh
I went with ECGS for my Dana 44 , you can buy it as a bare housing or complete and they have a lot of options available for them. I bought the housing bare with axle shafts and disc brakes then did my own gear and locker setup. The cost ended up being about even up in the end, but i did get some practice doing differential work, if you dont have the tools and measuring equipment to set up the ring and pinion you would be better off to let them do the work and have a bolt in axle when its delivered, they come plumbed, geared, and ready to go from pallet to jeep in quick fashion.
85 CJ-7, Cummins 4BT Diesel, ZF S 5-42 5 Speed, Rear axle Ford Sterling 8.8 discs & Detroit Locker 4.10's, Front GM camper special D44 Flat top X-over hi-steer ARB, 4.10's, AGR super box, LoMax D300 4:1 gearing (94:1 ratio 1st-Low-Low). CV drive shaft, Goodyear MT/R Kevlars, 15x8 street locks, SOA front/SUA Rear hybrid 5.5" lift, Ham & CB 2-way radio,
09' JKUR on 37's and way too much to list.......
I am always DIY using standard junkyard parts so we didn't have anyone do it for us.
My one rule of thumb on outback 4x4 upgrades: Nothing so custom that you can't get it at the corner auto parts store, the stealership or a junkyard. Preferably the pick-your-own self serve kind to keep prices low. Since they are used parts, I like to have my pick of several to find the best condition we can.
FRONT:
Chevrolet factory SOA Dana 44 front, narrowed long side 9" to WT CJ, CTM joints 1/2 ton knuckles & brakes w/F150 rotors. Factory 4.10's & ARB air locker. Solid Diff cover.
REAR:
Ford Sterling 8.8 Explorer narrowed for two passenger side shafts, re-drilled to 5x5.5 & factory disc brakes. Factory 4.10's Detroit Locker. Welded axle tubes. Solid Diff cover.
If I had to do it all over again, I would!
If I were to change anything it would be go with a late model disc brake 14 bolt narrowed in the rear AND make all of it YJ/TJ Wrangler width instead of the WT CJ. However, just the donor axle in yards was significantly more money than the Ford 8.8 which cost a mere $125 at the time complete with calipers, rotors and the factory 4.10 gears I wanted. The front axle I lucked into at the yard for $200 complete including the 4.10 gears. Already back in 2007 when I did the conversion, it was super rare to find an early square body Chevy K20 Camper special with the Dana front axle still in it. This was a very popular axle swap for passenger side diff housing so I was completely thrilled to find it in complete untouched condition. It was 8-Lug which in hind sight I shoulda kept but I traded the 8-Lug pattern knuckles/spindles/rotors for F150 5x5.5 knuckles/spindles/rotors and the matching small bearing spindles to a friend with a YOT Hilux that had a Dana 44 up front he wanted to match his D60 rear to that was already 8-Lug pattern. Brake calipers remained the same big sweep Modine units. He bought me all the parts to do the F150 5 lug conversion and I gave him my 8-lug parts in return for it. If I went with the shaved 14 bolt it would have stayed 8-Lug all the way around. Ida never swapped to 5-Lugs to begin with in that case.
Everything has withstood the test of time over 18 years from mild to wild power. 5 engines ranging from the paltry 2.5L 4-cylinder to a stroker 383 & Vortec 5.3L. Now Cummins 3.9BT intercooler turbocharged diesel so I can't complain one bit. Nothing broken, no twisted splines or sheered off pinion teeth so all's good!
