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New to me oil

New to me oil

Hedgehog

Always Off-Roading Jeeper
Posts
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Location
Tucson/Marana Arizona
Vehicle(s)
-1975 Jeep CJ5, 360 V8, Headers, Duel Exhaust,T15 transmission, D-20 Transfer case, Twin Stick Conversion, Warn 8274 Winch
-1951 Willys Wagon, 4 cylinder, "F" head, little rust, very close to stock
After talking with my jeep guy here in Tucson I decided to take the plunge and go with an oil I've never used before. After a search I see that a few others use it as well. Given the fact that oil has been a constant and chemically changing subject I thought I'd get the most current thoughts on the subject. At first I was all about Rotella Diesel oil. On mentioning it to my jeep guy he said that Rotella isn't what it used to be and now doesn't have the sulfur products it once had. Please don't shoot me now, I trust the guy. It so happens that our local hotrod shop has the product and given the current price of motor oil it wasn't badly priced at all.

So, this weekend the 360 will get an oil pan full of 20-50 Brad Penn oil, a new Wix filter and to top it all off the air filter will be modified. More on that later.... I will say that the K&N haters won't be supportive.
 
Excellent. Let us know if you get any change in oil pressure at hot/idle. Or any lifter bleed down after a hot restart.
 
So, this weekend the 360 will get an oil pan full of 20-50 Brad Penn oil, a new Wix filter and to top it all off the air filter will be modified. More on that later.... I will say that the K&N haters won't be supportive.


Heard the same things about Rotella wich is what I was currently using. Mr Elwood Blues told me about the oil you mentioned. I believe its made here in Pa. Going to give it a shot next time around as well.
 
There are many reasons why Brad Penn is a good oil and the reasons are all over the net. Good choice.
 
I read this and thought it must be a joke, but 1 google search and there really is an oil named Brad Penn.
 
Heard the same things about Rotella wich is what I was currently using. Mr Elwood Blues told me about the oil you mentioned. I believe its made here in Pa. Going to give it a shot next time around as well.

Yes, yes I did :D


There are many reasons why Brad Penn is a good oil and the reasons are all over the net. Good choice.

I've been running it for a couple years, there's a couple cases of it in my garage :chug:


I read this and thought it must be a joke, but 1 google search and there really is an oil named Brad Penn.

http://www.penngrade1.com/History.aspx

brad_penn_motor_oil.webp
 
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In some places Brad Penn oil is expensive, but here I can get it for $6.00 a quart. Not many years ago I would have considered that to be expensive, not any more!

A warning and a nod, this oil is listed as a Racing oil. The EPA won't let them sell it any other way.
 
So I have a 360 too. I run 10w30 Mobil 1. Would this be more beneficial oil to run?
 
Interesting.
Before anyone uses this oil-Read the reviews--Especially deal'n with E85 fuel use.
I can find no API engine oil classification listing for this oil brand. The bottle should have a SN on it.
The web-site has not been up dated since Aug 2011.
LG
 
When I got my S-10 from my uncle he got it from someone that rutinely went to Jiffy Lube and they used Pennzoil. Pennzoil is Pennsylvania Crude 1 a pariffinic oil so I had to rebuild my engine after it seized from waxy build up.
So I stayed away from Pennzoil/Shell and went with Valvoline.
The only thing Brad Penn has going for it is ZDDP synthetic blend, and it is a racing oil. It has to be a blend to be part Synthetic, as most of them are Grade III. To be good it has to have detergent in it to wash the wax away as a lube not a solid.
So time will tell since it still has grade I in it, but it is way better then just grade I oil. Sounds real good so far, especially for older vehicles that need the zinc.
Here is a link explaining oil 101.
Facts About Crude Oil
The best scientifically is a true synthetic.
 
Thanks Lumpy I knew I'd somehow be wrong for my choice of oil even though it comes highly recommended for older engines. No matter, its in the engine now.

Early comment, This stuff is DARK, it looked black but closer inspection showed that it is actually dark green.
 
Thanks Lumpy I knew I'd somehow be wrong for my choice of oil even though it comes highly recommended for older engines. No matter, its in the engine now.

Early comment, This stuff is DARK, it looked black but closer inspection showed that it is actually dark green.

It is-What it IS-------
Easy to confirm what I posted, BTW. ;)
Please provide follow ups.
Do hope you will send in a sample for used oil analysis.
Blackstone Labs

It's cheap money, that's well spent!
BTW-There's a reason I stay with Castrol 20W-50/Wix filters in my Jeep.;)
LG
 
No question that Castrol is a quality oil. Its seen service in many of my vehicles. But, with all the changing requirements for automotive oil I wonder if it is still the oil it once was. Honestly I don't know. I do know that oil that was acceptable only a few years ago is now becoming questionable for some applications. I have no doubt that you have found some study somewhere that backs up you opinions, be that oil filters, oil or air filters. That is one thing your very consistent about and I can't fault anyone for that.

Why did I try this oil? The 360 has always been a good starting vehicle, I mean hit the starter and "bam" its running. A month or so ago I, after the jeep sat for a little while, I hit the starter and there was a lifter tick. The tick went away, but it was back again for a couple more starts of the engine. While it hasn't done it since I started worrying about the why's of a ticking lifter. This oil came HIGHLY recommended and the price was right. I think I'll stick with it for a while and see.

Frankly, there is no way in hell that I'm going to seriously consider sending anybody a sample of this oil for testing. While it actually might be cool to know how it turns out, I am not going to spend my money to find out. There are thousands, maybe even millions of vehicles running this oil, I'm sure there is someone willing to spend the money, but it just ain't me.

This is a synthetic blend. That surprised me some. The seller, Don's Hot Rod Shop, said that they add Just enough of what ever it is that makes it s synthetic to be able to make that claim. I guess it helps improve sales.

Ran the jeep for 60 or so miles last night. The 360 has always shown great oil pressure 62 lbs on the road, +25 at idle with hot oil. With Brad Penn oil the pressure was 65 lbs and +30 at idle. But I will say, it was a cool night so I can't say as it was truly hot, so at this point little can be said of the oil pressure and this oil. The engine did seem smoother, but that could be nothing other than the desire to see some difference with the new oil.

So what did I di with my air filter? Drat. y camera just took a dump, I guess there's a serious Lens issue. Lets see if I can explain. First here's a link to the product I used:

66-0901 - K&N Custom Assemblies, X-Stream Top Filter

The stock air filter has about a 9 3/4" OD and a 8 3/4" ID, the center of the 9" K&N XStream® Air Flow Top fits beautifully inside the stock filter. The stock cover is designed with a drop down right where the center of the stock filter is. After some measuring it was clear that cutting out the center of the stock cover at the existing drop would allow the XStream filter to almost drop right in. The XStream filter has a 1/4" lip that needed to be removed, but once the lip was gone the XStream filter dropped right on, perfectly. After test fitting the filter was masked and painted the Ford Blue I use on everything I've touched on the AMC engine. So now I've got filtered air from the sides AND the top. The engine will never be starved for air. Besides, it looks really cool, very custom.

Granted, I know that the K&N filter is a horrible product and it is sure to bring an early death to the 360, but honestly, this is a risk I'm willing to take.
 
What oil filter did you use?
I have never like switching oil brands. Each brand has it's own chemical 'pack' added to the oil.
Switch'n those 'packs' around via the different brands can't be good for the seals, gaskets etc.
Was there any API rating on that oil you put in?:confused:
What oil weight did you run, before the change to this newer oil?
LG
 
If you had read my posts you'd know. Wix & 20-50
 
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Sorta' sorry, I try to go into great detail in this kind of thread and frequently find myself being asked to repeat information I've already written. It becomes obvious when a thread is skimmed or not actually read at all. This is understandable when a thread has had high enough interest to keep going for several pages.

I don't believe this is a new or a cheap oil. When I first heard about it my source said it was $9.00 a quart, expensive. When I went to the shop for another reason I asked and the oil was $6.00, basically right in there with most other oils, therefore the price was right. The engine certainly seems to run well with this oil, but what else could be expected of newly changed oil, after all it isn't water.
 
I think between your new oil and your new air filter there's no way that engine lasts through spring. Ha!

Oil discussions are typically very religious discussions. Everyone believes what they do for a reason hopefully. The others believe what they do because that's what they've been told.

Personally, I use Lucas Magnum oil in my CJ. This is the heavy truck diesel oil. I use it because it's zinc content. Zinc is a very important ingredient in any motor oil in engines of the age of ours.

I run the magnum with 20% Lucas oil stabilizer. My oil pressure with the engine hot is off the charts. I also use Lucas because they use it where I work on their fleet trucks. We have about 90 Peterbilt and Kenworth's with the same oil in them. That oil we have had tested on several occasions. We have settled on 30,000 mile oil change intervals although it was suggested that we use 45,000. I also use the same oil and oil / stabilizer ratio in my Ford Expedition and in my Town and Country van and change oil every 10,000 miles.

I have heard of Brad Penn motor oil on many occasions, usually in competition vehicles. On one hand it's good the people trust this oil in competition vehicle. On the other hand frequent changes of both the oil and / or engine parts can mask its longevity. Again the fact I would be most concerned with in your application is the amount of the zinc in the oil.

Someone suggested earlier you having that oil tested. Actually that's a great idea, especially when you have an unknown. They will be able to tell you based on the content of the sample what you may be experiencing wear in. Typically they want a baseline of the oil to begin with. Then they will want samples in given intervals.

Another way to look at that is that if your oil has plenty of zinc then it almost doesn't matter how much it cost per quart, if you change it once a year in most cases you'll be good. Naturally that depends on how many miles you drive your Jeep in a years time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sorta' sorry, I try to go into great detail in this kind of thread and frequently find myself being asked to repeat information I've already written. It becomes obvious when a thread is skimmed or not actually read at all. This is understandable when a thread has had high enough interest to keep going for several pages.

I don't believe this is a new or a cheap oil. When I first heard about it my source said it was $9.00 a quart, expensive. When I went to the shop for another reason I asked and the oil was $6.00, basically right in there with most other oils, therefore the price was right. The engine certainly seems to run well with this oil, but what else could be expected of newly changed oil, after all it isn't water.

I sorta' forgive you :D:D
Hope this new oil works out for you.
As you know-And you have told me in the past-:D:p
Need pictures of the new AF setup.:D
LG
 

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