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Electrical Power distribution block

Electrical Power distribution block

Manic Mechanic

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85 CJ7 4.2L 258 .040 over, T-5 trans, dana 300, dana 30 front 3.23 and lock right locker, rear amc 20 3.23 one piece axle shafts traclock

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Thinking about running a power distribution block to clean up my terminals and add a few things like my winch. This is one of my ideas. Anyone else do something similar or have ideas.32bb97df645389898f983181a2e76109.webp

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Won't handle the winch, but for other circuits like fog lights, air compressor, rear spots, inverter, and secondary battery power to the center console, I used this fuse/relay box from Amazon. Run a single power wire from your source (main or secondary battery) and then you can wire up all your auxiliary circuits through required fuses and/or relays. It is marine grade and easily mounts. Mine is mounted to the engine-side of the firewall just under the main bulkhead connector on the driver side. That way my battery only needed one connection to get power to this box. Now for the winch, I have a 500 AMP fuse connected to the positive terminal on the secondary battery and then connected to the winch. Because I have this secondary battery, no need to deal with too many connections on a single battery terminal. The primary battery has three connections, large wire to starter solenoid and smaller wires to the alternator and the main bulkhead connector on the firewall. Then the secondary battery has two connections, the winch fuse and a power wire to this fuse/relay box. I have a battery isolator solenoid right on the battery hold-down bracket on the dual tray that allows the batteries to run isolated from each other or connected together based on a ground switch on the dash.

Fuse/Relay Box on Amazon
500 AMP Fuse/Holder
 
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I have similar block in my engine bay. As mentioned, my winch is connected to the battery directly. Other stuff is connected to the blocks.
 
Thanks. I'll look into it. Just wondering why the winch can't be tied into the power block

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Thanks. I'll look into it. Just wondering why the winch can't be tied into the power block
I prefer my winch on a fused circuit as mentioned. You could tie the winch to the power block as long as the block you choose can handle the current and cable size the winch needs. But due to these factors, most folks tie the winch directly to the battery, through a fuse or direct connected. Here's a quick example of the current needed at various pull weights/speeds:

Warn M10000
Gear reduction ratio: 164:1
Motor: 2.5 hp, series wound
Gear train: 3 stage planetary
Weight: 125 lb.
Line Pull Line Speed Current
(lb) (ft/min) (amps)
==================
0 35 80
2000 14 163
4000 9 245
6000 6 322
8000 4 400
10000 3 475

As you can see with this Warn 10K pound winch example, at full pulling weight, you could draw as much as 475 amps of current. That's why I have a 500 amp fuse on mine. But how long are you really pulling at full load? Maybe intermittent for a short burst, but not normally for any length of time. But depending on your uses, you could still easily be in the 200-300 amp range. That would require a hefty distribution block that could handle some good size cable connectors. Some heavy duty battery cables tied right to the battery terminals, including the negative rather than tied to a chassis ground, is really the best way to go to avoid overheating connections or severe voltage drop to the winch.
 
I appreciate the responses I'm going to go a different route with the winch as I don't plan on leaving it mounted. To much money for someone to steal. Might just run a couple sets of quick disconnects front and rear and just have it read to plug to the battery when I go wheeling

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I appreciate the responses I'm going to go a different route with the winch as I don't plan on leaving it mounted. To much money for someone to steal. Might just run a couple sets of quick disconnects front and rear and just have it read to plug to the battery when I go wheeling

I've seen that approach a few times and it seems to work well. Mount the winch to a plate with a 2" tongue that inserts into a standard receiver and have the quick connects like you mentioned.

winch_power.webp winch_mount.webp
 
I've seen that approach a few times and it seems to work well. Mount the winch to a plate with a 2" tongue that inserts into a standard receiver and have the quick connects like you mentioned.

View attachment 75688 View attachment 75689
Something like that for the rear. I'll make a plate and build it myself from an old hitch

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