Power drain
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Power drain
- Thread starter Get er done
- Start date Start date:
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TroyaCantrell
Old Time Jeeper
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- 1966 CJ 6, Buick V6 Dauntless,
Dana 44 rear, Dana 27 front
Trans GM SM 420
First Gear ....... 7.05
Second Gear ... 3.57
Third Gear ...... 1.70
Fourth Gear ... Direct
Dana T-case (twin stick)
1970 Glass dune buggy. Short pan 1600
2008 Chevy HHR SS
Hey there, not much info to go on in your post so I will throw some stuff at you that might help.
Depending on how your tried to charge the battery it could just be bad. If it sat discharged for a long time lead acid batteries go bad. Charging a battery is like filling a bucket with a garden hose. The best way is a long steady low amp charge. Sure you can get some in there at full blast but it is not as effective.
So take the battery and have it tested, usually free. They can't test it at rest and under a load, like starting. At rest it should be 12.5 or a bit higher.
If it is good make sure your alternator is putting out the right voltage. They can also check that but a simple multi meter will give you what you need. With the engine running you should be at 14.4ish.
If both check out tracking down a slow drain is pita. You can pull fuses from circuits until there is no longer a drain and the once you find the drain circuit you have to find the drain cause, more pita tracking wires.
I would start there.
Troy Cantrell
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Build thread - '66 CJ6 :
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15075
Depending on how your tried to charge the battery it could just be bad. If it sat discharged for a long time lead acid batteries go bad. Charging a battery is like filling a bucket with a garden hose. The best way is a long steady low amp charge. Sure you can get some in there at full blast but it is not as effective.
So take the battery and have it tested, usually free. They can't test it at rest and under a load, like starting. At rest it should be 12.5 or a bit higher.
If it is good make sure your alternator is putting out the right voltage. They can also check that but a simple multi meter will give you what you need. With the engine running you should be at 14.4ish.
If both check out tracking down a slow drain is pita. You can pull fuses from circuits until there is no longer a drain and the once you find the drain circuit you have to find the drain cause, more pita tracking wires.
I would start there.
Troy Cantrell
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Build thread - '66 CJ6 :
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15075
Get er done
Jeeper
I'm getting a buddy to loan me his multimeter and the guy I bought it from said he had just put a new alternator in it
It will click once like its trying to turn over then nothing at all after that first click
It will click once like its trying to turn over then nothing at all after that first click
TroyaCantrell
Old Time Jeeper
- Posts
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- Location
- Orangevale, CA
- Vehicle(s)
- 1966 CJ 6, Buick V6 Dauntless,
Dana 44 rear, Dana 27 front
Trans GM SM 420
First Gear ....... 7.05
Second Gear ... 3.57
Third Gear ...... 1.70
Fourth Gear ... Direct
Dana T-case (twin stick)
1970 Glass dune buggy. Short pan 1600
2008 Chevy HHR SS
So the clicking out is low voltage getting to the starter.
First check voltage at the battery posts if the battery is less then 11.5 charge it first. It should be closer to 12.5
Make sure you have good grounds too. Check from the negative post of the battery to the block and make sure that wire is thick as your thumb and clean the connections on both ends. Make sure both battery posts are clean of gunk and corrosion. Make sure both the posts and the cable connection surfaces are clean.
You can't do too much until you know what you are working with on the battery but cleaning the connections and checking grounds is always a good idea. Bad or corroded connections will also keep the battery from charging properly either from the alternator or external charger.
You have to start at the source and work your way until you solve the problem.
Troy Cantrell
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Build thread - '66 CJ6 :
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15075
First check voltage at the battery posts if the battery is less then 11.5 charge it first. It should be closer to 12.5
Make sure you have good grounds too. Check from the negative post of the battery to the block and make sure that wire is thick as your thumb and clean the connections on both ends. Make sure both battery posts are clean of gunk and corrosion. Make sure both the posts and the cable connection surfaces are clean.
You can't do too much until you know what you are working with on the battery but cleaning the connections and checking grounds is always a good idea. Bad or corroded connections will also keep the battery from charging properly either from the alternator or external charger.
You have to start at the source and work your way until you solve the problem.
Troy Cantrell
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Build thread - '66 CJ6 :
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15075
Get er done
Jeeper
Ill check that out
I just replaced the negative cable for the battery cause the old one was frayed
The terminals look clean
But like ya said just have to pick my way through it
I just replaced the negative cable for the battery cause the old one was frayed
The terminals look clean
But like ya said just have to pick my way through it
Get er done
Jeeper
Got the jeep to turn over but still not full crank
The body is grounding out the frame and it arcs like a mad man on Halloween
Still trying to figure it out
The body is grounding out the frame and it arcs like a mad man on Halloween
Still trying to figure it out
IOPort51
NOT the voice of reason Jeep-CJ.com
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there should be a cable that goes from the top of the drivers side motor mount to the bottom of the mount so the motor is grounded to the frame. and of course the negative cable bolts to the block. Are these both in place?
BusaDave9
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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Where and when do you get this arcing?
grozam
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Ignition switch could be bad. Bypass it and see if it cranks faster. I had a truck not cranking when I turned the key and jumped the solenoid and it cranked just fine telling me my ignition switch was bad.
Last edited:
Get er done
Jeeper
The switch works
I got it to crank but not stay running
The arcing was from the body
I got it to crank but not stay running
The arcing was from the body
TroyaCantrell
Old Time Jeeper
- Posts
- 1,455
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- 9
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- Location
- Orangevale, CA
- Vehicle(s)
- 1966 CJ 6, Buick V6 Dauntless,
Dana 44 rear, Dana 27 front
Trans GM SM 420
First Gear ....... 7.05
Second Gear ... 3.57
Third Gear ...... 1.70
Fourth Gear ... Direct
Dana T-case (twin stick)
1970 Glass dune buggy. Short pan 1600
2008 Chevy HHR SS
Arcing is bad, you have a short somewhere. Somewhere you have a positive (hot) lead contacting the body or frame or some other source of ground.
Make sure that the positive + lead from the battery that goes to the starter that the lug on the end is not in contact with any of the other posts on the starter or the frame.
Where on the body is it arcing? An arc jumps a gap so from what to what and when does it happen?
Does it happen only while cranking the engine over? Or does it start when you turn the key to run?
Troy--
CJ Build thread- http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f98/1966-cj-6-build-15075/
Make sure that the positive + lead from the battery that goes to the starter that the lug on the end is not in contact with any of the other posts on the starter or the frame.
Where on the body is it arcing? An arc jumps a gap so from what to what and when does it happen?
Does it happen only while cranking the engine over? Or does it start when you turn the key to run?
Troy--
CJ Build thread- http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f98/1966-cj-6-build-15075/
BusaDave9
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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- 1979 Jeep CJ5 with 304 V8, T18 Transmission, Dana 20 Transfer case with TeraLow 3:1 gears, 4.88 axle gears, Detroit Locker up front and Ox Locker in back with 1 piece axle shafts, 36" SuperSwamper SX Tires, Shackle reversal, MileMarker Hydraulic winch, MSD 6A ignition.
This arching is far from normal. Both the frame and the body should be grounded. Adding better grounds it not the fix. You are energizing either the body or the frame with voltage. When does the arching happen? When the starter is running? It could be a short at the starter solenoid. The cable from the solenoid goes to the starter. That cable could be shorting. Make sure it isn't the cause of the arcing.