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Pulling wire

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Pulling wire
driver007

driver007

Senior Jeeper
Posts
610
Thanks
1
Location
Canada
Vehicle(s)
1981 cj5 304 v8, 300 Dana,model 30 Dana and model 20 AMC rear end
I was cleaning up some wires on my 76. when I found some hidden burnt wires from the po. I started to replace. The one from beside the thermostat Brown in color and was a single strand. I assume the temp sensor. Can I repair with a malty strand wire?
 
I retract my first post I was looking at the wrong wire. The single strand wire came off the alternator a black one . They had it run all the way back to the fuse box on the fire wall and tied in to a 10 gauge wire that came of the coil. The reason for running it back all the way to fuse box is unclear to me. Is there any harm running it to the coil instead of running back just to tie into the 10 gauge coil witch goes back to the coil anyways?
 
As a general rule, the longer the wire the more resistance can be. So the shorter the run the better. And the larger the wire gauge the better. And if you can't change the wire ga. then shortening up it's length will help. Resistance builds heat and that's usually why wires melt.
So while I'm not familiar with the exact wire you speak of (sounds like the excite wire), it sounds like running the wire direct would be the way to go.
 
That is a sense wire #78 Brown for the alternator and has resistance and should be by itself, the coil #13 should be by itself. If you replace that wire it should have a diode at the alternator plug next to the 10g red charge back wire then to the B+. Search for earlier posts, by "Team Rush" it will list the diode number and a "diagram". Or go to a alternator repair shop and purchase one.
 
The brown wire off the alternator is a resistance wire. It is a special wire and if replaced, should be done with a resistance wire. ;) You can get replacements form NAPA, etc. Do not shorten it or connect it to anything else that wasn't already there. I would suggest you get a wiring diagram if you are going to make any modifications to your wiring harness. :D You can find these in the service manual or go to www.colorwiringdiagrams.com :D There product is excellent and priced right. Rod
 
Ok gentlemen this is were I ended up. I simply replaced the burnt wires. The black wire off the top of the alternator was a resistance wire. In the old harness a red coming of the fuse block ran to the pose side of the coil. The resistance also ran back and tied in to the same fuse block as the red. The red at the coil had a red with a white strip tie in 4 " before tying in on the pose coil side. I replaced what was left of the alt top black resistance wire with normal wire. I then put a eye on it and hooked it up to the pose coil side. The red with the white stripe also got a eye and got hooked to the pose coil side. On the neg side the green got hooked up. Now I was talked into using a coil with a built in resister. Thus no need for a resistance wire Well it started great and ran etc. But did not turn off. The quiz is what do I have to do to to get the key to stop it from running?
 
I would suggest ditching that coil with its so-called resistance whatever. Installing your old coil back in and using a N.A.P.A. resistance wire p/n ICR22 and installing it in its previous location from the alternator to that red wire.
 
You now have run on because your ignition is connected to the battery, that wire has a resistance as a check valve like a diode. Nothing to do with the coil.
Me and Peanut Butter told you to replace it with a resistance wire or a diode, nothing else will work.
I posted a color diagram for 76cj7chick a few months back, find it, it was free, and on post #4 I said it was brown sorry it is black.
 
Thanks Gargolejeeper I will look up the diode and install. You can not find the resistance wire up here. I had some one talk me into using the coil with built in resister thus getting rid of the wire. But what you are saying is the current is back feeding and that is were the diode comes into play. Can I keep the set up I have or do I have to put my old coil back in With a ceramic resister then the diode? Some of my problem was doing the work with out reading your posts.
 
Either way with the coil is fine, the black wire needs the diode at the alternator. Or put a meter to your old wire and see if it is still 10 ohm.
 
I thought the power wire from coil came off the starter solenoid? On my 72 AMC 304 I have a 12g power from solenoid to coil a resistor wire Ts into that line going to the firewall block and another Ts off that that to the ignition module and I'm pretty sure that's how the diagram in the manual shows it that way, no?


Wooly
 
On the Motorcraft ignition '78-'90, The main power source to the coil is from the resistance wire at 6 volts. The wire from the starter relay to the coil is for startup only. If you look closer at the wiring schematic you will notice that the circut from the relay to the coil is broken when the starter is released.
 
Every Vehicle I have ever worked on Coil Power comes from the Ignition Switch.
 
Thanks Gargoylejeeper. I put in a diode and it now starts and stops. I had a person take a look and he cleared me and said its good to go. I have to pull the motor to finish off my rig. I think a rewire full blown will be in order. With my 1976 CJ5 what ignition up grade should I do to improve reliability for a jeep that is not going to be a rock crawler or mudder but a Sunday driver and are the rewire kits truly plug and play?
 
Dump the distributor and get a GM HEI or a Ford Dura Spark II, your choice. Me, I am a Chevy Man and at 1 time 1/2 the vehicles on the road had HEI. All the Jeeps since 1965 have GM wiring (Packard Electric) except the ignition, which is Ford or Prestolite, and the start which is Ford.
There are a couple of harnesses that are plug and play but you will pay for it, and a true copy, and they are not talked about on this forum. I tell my customers first to repair what they have unless the fuse box or the bulkhead connector is shot, since that is the only parts you can not source besides the light switch connectors. And the last there is a source, but they want $30 for a piece of plastic (I am trying to get it from the harness manufacturer). Most people get the parts from a whole sale or retail store, but I get them from the manufacturers.
I would update & mod the harness you have.
A lot of people install the MSD off road box so you have spark for 18* of crankshaft revolution or the Mallory for 22*, with a better coil, wires & plugs.
Stay away from the 1 wire alternator, or the mega amp, or the local rebuild go with a lifetime from Napa, O`reilly`s AutoZone or what have you so you will get a replacement now instead of 1-2 days later.
The main thing is to get off road and back.
 
When I up grade my 76's dizzy to a HEI will the old gear off my 76's dizzy fit the new one. If not any recommendations on getting a gear that will work with a new dizzy and not get chewed up. What happens to the gears are the new ones to hard or soft?
 
Good read Peanut Butter. I thought I was doing stuff right but I was lacking on a few wiring basic's. I have worked with wiring but would be the first to omit the ignition wiring unnerves me. No reason for it, just have not done it so I have nothing to fall back on. Just need some more pages filled in my coloring book. For me getting out of my comfort zone is were I will learn. Anybody can replace the trick is to understand. Still looking for gear info. As stated before thanks Team rush.
 
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