Rear axle swap ? Consider the Ford 8.8

Rear axle swap ? Consider the Ford 8.8
so about 4 1/2" wider than a wt axle, that ain't to bad. wonder what the closest front axle you can get to that would be.

I could be wrong but I thought the WT were at 56 inches. So the 8.8 would be 3 1/2 wider. 1 3/4 per side. IMHO not enough to warrant any change to a front axle.

Perhaps a change to the larger 760x u joints that are found in later model (95 and up) Dana 30 `s would be an idea upgrade.
 
:grinjeep: Hey it`s a Jeep, close enough is perfect. :D

I haven't taken a tape to mine but heres what I have copied from somewhere.

WT Dana 30 - 56"
WT AMC20 - 55"
ford 8.8 - 59 1/2"

fzsk4p what have you done to deal with hooking up the emegency brake cables?
 
I haven't taken a tape to mine but heres what I have copied from somewhere.

WT Dana 30 - 56"
WT AMC20 - 55"
ford 8.8 - 59 1/2"

fzsk4p what have you done to deal with hooking up the emegency brake cables?

There is a couple ways to do it. Now be warned, mine is a YJ and I am not familiar with a CJ parking brake.

MORE sells a cable kit. This what I used.
Emergency Brake Cable for YJ 1987-1995

Others have used ZJ cables and tied them into the stock e cable..
Mopar P/N 52008904 & 52008905

This might give you some ideas.
Ford 8.8 Axle Swap

Another issue that creates some controversy is the brake prop valve. Some say the stock works fine and others say the opposite.

To make it easy I simply plumbed in an adjustable prop valve. Jeg`s, Summit, Speedway etc. IIRC it was about 30 bucks. You can adjust the F/R bias to your liking.
 
It's not difficult to adapt the parking brake cables on the 8.8 to later model wide-track CJ's. I did it for less than $10 using a combination of hardware store and stock parts. RangerRick
 
It's not difficult to adapt the parking brake cables on the 8.8 to later model wide-track CJ's. I did it for less than $10 using a combination of hardware store and stock parts. RangerRick

Got any pix? :)
 
Well Brock, don`t leave us hanging. Did it work for you ? Would you do it again ?

Sorry missed your post, Yeah it worked out great in my YJ and would do it
again if I had another one. Was an easy upgrade and didn't cost me much. Hell people basically give those axles away not knowing what they have. Look on craigslist for people parting out vehicles that contain said axle.
I also like the Limited slip rear from a 90's ford ranger with the 6 cyl.
Check it:
Ford Ranger Rear Axles - The Ranger Station

The above link is invaluable if your looking at ford 8.8 axles, what I like is swapping in an 8.8,
then being able to use factory gears like 4.56's for example.
 
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I think the Scout 2 Dana 44 rear is your best bet only a few inch's wider
then a wide track CJ.
 
Here are some pics from when I was installing the narrowed 2001 Ford Explorer 8.8 axle in my 85 wide-track CJ7 . One of the photos shows the 5x5.5 bolt pattern drilled into the stock explorer axle flange before it was installed in the housing. I was fabricating the brake lines, shock mounts, parking brake connections and still building the double cardan drive shaft for it at this point in the photos. The tires are 6 ply bias super-swamper TSL SAM-14's by Interco and stand about 33 inches tall give-or-take a half inch. You can see the tire coverage is excellent with about 10" of tread width on 15x8 rims that have 3.75 inches of backspacing and stock CJ fender flairs. For comparison, my TJ with MTR 37's on 61 inch wide axles and 17x9 rims 4 inch backspacing M/T classic II's. The fender flairs are 6.5 inches wide. This makes both of the Jeeps 50 state legal in the tire coverage department.

RangerRick
 
Catching up on all my reading this weekend, finally have some time off.

Working on putting an 8.8 under the son's YJ now. Picked one up from an Explorer for $AMC 150 and working on getting it ready. Plan is to weld the center, add a truss like I did in the CJ7 and go with a locker.

Problem with the C-clip eliminator kits I've seen so far, is you have to purchase (or fab) a new disc caliper mount. Since the kit mounts on the ends of the tubes, it moves the rotor out past the normal position. Not a problem on drum brakes but not so on disc.

From what I have read, the problem with the C-clips is minor as you most likely will break something else first.

And John is correct, the axle won't 'fall' out due to the caliper holding the rotor in place, but I think trying to drive with the rotor dragging on the brake pad would be extremely difficult, especially off road.
 
Catching up on all my reading this weekend, finally have some time off.

Working on putting an 8.8 under the son's YJ now. Picked one up from an Explorer for $AMC 150 and working on getting it ready. Plan is to weld the center, add a truss like I did in the CJ7 and go with a locker.

Problem with the C-clip eliminator kits I've seen so far, is you have to purchase (or fab) a new disc caliper mount. Since the kit mounts on the ends of the tubes, it moves the rotor out past the normal position. Not a problem on drum brakes but not so on disc.

From what I have read, the problem with the C-clips is minor as you most likely will break something else first.

And John is correct, the axle won't 'fall' out due to the caliper holding the rotor in place, but I think trying to drive with the rotor dragging on the brake pad would be extremely difficult, especially off road.

Not sure if there's a question in there or not.
I plan on just running the c-clips when I do mine.
 
Catching up on all my reading this weekend, finally have some time off.

Working on putting an 8.8 under the son's YJ now. Picked one up from an Explorer for $AMC 150 and working on getting it ready. Plan is to weld the center, add a truss like I did in the CJ7 and go with a locker.

Problem with the C-clip eliminator kits I've seen so far, is you have to purchase (or fab) a new disc caliper mount. Since the kit mounts on the ends of the tubes, it moves the rotor out past the normal position. Not a problem on drum brakes but not so on disc.

From what I have read, the problem with the C-clips is minor as you most likely will break something else first.

And John is correct, the axle won't 'fall' out due to the caliper holding the rotor in place, but I think trying to drive with the rotor dragging on the brake pad would be extremely difficult, especially off road.


RJ,
I will forward this to a friend of mine. He designed the kit for Superior.

If he doesn't reply here I`ll post the response he emails back.

Did you see the Super 88 kit in the latest Crawl issue ?
 
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The c clips aren't an issue I broke an axle but never had an issue with clips.
Bound up a tire and gave her to much gas, live and learn.
 
Catching up on all my reading this weekend, finally have some time off.

Working on putting an 8.8 under the son's YJ now. Picked one up from an Explorer for $AMC 150 and working on getting it ready. Plan is to weld the center, add a truss like I did in the CJ7 and go with a locker.

Problem with the C-clip eliminator kits I've seen so far, is you have to purchase (or fab) a new disc caliper mount. Since the kit mounts on the ends of the tubes, it moves the rotor out past the normal position. Not a problem on drum brakes but not so on disc.

From what I have read, the problem with the C-clips is minor as you most likely will break something else first.

And John is correct, the axle won't 'fall' out due to the caliper holding the rotor in place, but I think trying to drive with the rotor dragging on the brake pad would be extremely difficult, especially off road.

You have to be careful which CCE kit you go with. The vast majority of them I have looked at simply make an aluminum housing to trap a roller bearing that has the correct size journal to press in place on the axles.

When I helped Superior as part of the design team for their version, we used the venerable Set 20 bearing, seal, and shaft retention collar from the Big Bearing Torino Ford housing end. It is housed in a 1018 CR steel single piece that has a centering lip that helps seal it and also holds it concentric to the OEM housing end centerline.

The axles are 4340 and dual drilled for both 5 on 5.5 and 5 on 4.5 bolt circles with thread in wheel studs that are available up to 3" long. (not a selling point, but that has come in handy for me several times)

Here's where your choice in using a CCE can get a bit sticky. I was the impetus behind getting Superior to make the kit and my desire was driven by all of my many friends that ran the 8.8 and who had all bent the stock axles. Due to many discussions over the years, I've found that this isn't really that common unless you play in rocks like we do in JV. I believe at one point I was wheeling with about 8 rigs at one time out there that had all bent axles or were carrying them for spares after swapping them out.

In that vein, we went after the design of the axle and really beefed up the flange and made the radius where it transitions to the shaft large and robust. To date, no one has bent one of the Superior shafts, so we did our job well.

For all intents and purposes, it is little more than a HP Ford 9" shaft.

The only gotcha I see with the narrower track rigs is the housing ends add .900 of an inch per side. That's a bonus for the YJ and TJ guys because the stock Explorer axle is about an inch too narrow which often necessitates new rims with less backspacing or wheel spacers.

The kit works perfectly with the Ford Explorer rear disc brakes and simply spaces the backing plate out .900 and lines up the rotor with the flange and keeps the Drum in Hat rotor parking brake intact and fully functional.

Finally, I know of no one who has ever had a C-clip fail or the button on the end of the axle. If you're consider a CCE due to that, don't, it's not an issue. If you're looking for a CCE that is designed to handle all the side loads and off camber you can throw at it, then it will work very well.

Thanks for the invite John.
 
fiirist let me say, Welcome to the site. Hope you hang around awhile.:chug:
Good info for us to consider when making a choice.
 
Thanks again Blaine.
Your response will help a number of CJ.com folks that may be considering the 8.8.

All set RJ ?
 

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