Replacement Rotors (1977, thick or 6 bolt)

[Hedgehog]

Moving forward on installing my 1977 front axle. It's been sitting a while, just waiting. So, it's time to take another step forward. The axle was a mostly rebuilt project before I purchased it. The only iffy part was the rotors where they sat on the ground. They had been turned, but the sitting created some rust pits that I was going to ignore, but after some consideration I'll replace them. So, with the preamble out of the way.

I need a set of rotors, the thick ones (1 1/8"). After looking on line I am now more confused than ever. Prices run from "OMG how can they make'em that inexpensively" to "Maybe I should start putting away some money for those". I'm the type to eliminate the top and bottom, then shoot for the middle. The problem is there are a number of respectable names in the economic middle ground. So, Why not throw it to those that might know or have an opinion. Do you have a preference in rotor manufacturers? Yes, I know some of you will always buy American. If so, who do you prefer and why?

 

[Torxhead]

For rotors, Bendix is a brand that comes to mind. From what I understand the cheap ones are usually made in China from a poor grade of cast iron and will warp easier than the expensive ones. I would suggest avoiding the ones with cross drilled holes and slots also.

 

[Hedgehog]

That is exactly why I attempt to steer clear of the cheaper offerings. I'm wondering why you don't like drilled and slotted rotors? It seems like under heavy braking (going down mountains in the west) and dirty conditions the slots and holes would help.

 

[Torxhead]

From what I have read, it does make for some excessive wear on the pads, but it does help the rotors run cooler though. I would think with all the dust,dirt, and mud from off road use, it would be harder on the performance type rotors and pads during heavy braking. I am not a fan of ceramic pads either, they seem to wear down the rotors more, at least they did on my pickup truck. I do think changing those rubber brake lines is a good thing to do every now and then, I once had an old one swell up on the inside and not return fluid correctly so it turned the rotor blue.

 

[Hedgehog]

When talking to a guy that specializes in converting CJ's to disk brakes he was not a fan of ceramic brake pads for just that reason. CJ's are relatively light vehicles and don't need the extra power that ceramics offer. The organic pads will last a long time on a CJ and won't wear down the rotors in the same way ceramic pads will. Thanks for reminding me, I'd forgotten that.

 

[Hedgehog]

Went to our local "Decent Local Parts house" Merles to get the rotors. They stock "Parts America" rotors. I asked for the Bendix brand and when they put in the part number (03552) the computer kept bouncing back to the "Parts America" listing. These guys are decent parts men and they wouldn't carry poor quality parts, so their rotors. They seem to be machined nicely enough, rough where they should be, semi smooth in the right places, super smooth where proper fit is required.

I almost took them back though. It's been a while since they were removed so proper assembly is a little rusty. It took more research and some close snooping to ferret out the information I needed. There are a ton of pictures showing how to assemble the front hub. The information is lacking in only one place, how the disk mounts to the hub and how the lugs are located. In the end, easy enough, the disk is mounted BEHIND the hub flange with the lugs going through the disk and into the hub flange. It was the machining on the hub that fooled me. the wheel itself rides on the machined smooth surface, not the rotor. The rotor rides on relatively small machined areas on the back of the flange, which in this care are a little bit dirty. Everything will be wire brush cleaned and painted before actual assembly.