Ring and pinion
Germy
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- 1985 jeep cj7 360 20 rear and 30 front w/warn lockers 5 speed tranny,
1971 dodge dart built 318
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Ring and pinion
- Thread starter Germy
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BusaDave9
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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- Durango, Crawlarado
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- 1979 Jeep CJ5 with 304 V8, T18 Transmission, Dana 20 Transfer case with TeraLow 3:1 gears, 4.88 axle gears, Detroit Locker up front and Ox Locker in back with 1 piece axle shafts, 36" SuperSwamper SX Tires, Shackle reversal, MileMarker Hydraulic winch, MSD 6A ignition.
Use this chart to find the correct gears for your tire size.
Find you tires on the left and shoot for a gear that is in the green. That will get your gearing back to factory but compensated for your tire size.
Find you tires on the left and shoot for a gear that is in the green. That will get your gearing back to factory but compensated for your tire size.
derf
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- 1984 CJ7 - 5.3/4L60E/Atlas4spd/D44/9" - In Progress
1984 GW - 360/TF727/NP229/D44/M23 - NP242 swap in progress
1986 J10 - 360/TF727/NP208/D44/D60 - 700R4 upgrade in the works
Yes. You do need to have matching gear sets front and rear. If you change one, you need to change the other.
You can use my gear ratio calculator (link in my sig) to experiment with numbers to see what you like and don't like.
The AMC20 /Dana 30 have available ratios:
2.73, 3.08, 3.55, 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, 4.88
They may have 3.31. I know the AMC20 has it but I'm not sure about the Dana 30 .
You can use my gear ratio calculator (link in my sig) to experiment with numbers to see what you like and don't like.
The AMC20 /Dana 30 have available ratios:
2.73, 3.08, 3.55, 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, 4.88
They may have 3.31. I know the AMC20 has it but I'm not sure about the Dana 30 .
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- Plumas Lake, CA, USA
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- 1974 CJ5 ~ Fresh built AMC 360 - SM420 - D20 - D30F with upgraded 30 spline shafts and knuckles & D44R - 4.27 Gears - ARB Lockers F/R - All chrome molly axles - on 33's - YJ 4" Lift Spring Conversion
derf
Senior Jeeper
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- Cedar Rapids, IA
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- 1984 CJ7 - 5.3/4L60E/Atlas4spd/D44/9" - In Progress
1984 GW - 360/TF727/NP229/D44/M23 - NP242 swap in progress
1986 J10 - 360/TF727/NP208/D44/D60 - 700R4 upgrade in the works
Germy
Full Time Jeeper
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- 1985 jeep cj7 360 20 rear and 30 front w/warn lockers 5 speed tranny,
1971 dodge dart built 318
Was thinking 4.56. I want a little more get up and go, no highway, just cruising.
Old Dog
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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- 83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
4:56's and 35's sound like a good combo since there's no big offroad plans for it.
YES you do need to regear both rears at the same time.
If you only did one and forgot and put it in 4wd you would have big problems.
YES you do need to regear both rears at the same time.
If you only did one and forgot and put it in 4wd you would have big problems.
Germy
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- 1985 jeep cj7 360 20 rear and 30 front w/warn lockers 5 speed tranny,
1971 dodge dart built 318
I could imagine! Thanks all! Off to empty the pockets again!
Old Dog
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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- 83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
CJ007
Old Time Jeeper
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- 83' CJ7-35's, granny T18, clocked, locked, 456s, D30 20 trussed- stitched-heim traction-1 piece shafts, CV dshaft, quick discos, xtended shock mounts, SOA, revolvers rear, braided lines, herculined, hand throttle, AMC saddle bags, rebuilt 258, D300.
Thats what I run and its perfect for me, winds up some on highway. But I still can get freeway speeds to the trails.
And unless you get selectable lockers, you will be changing the carriers too. You won't need to change carrier if the AMC20 is over 2.73, that is the only one that won't work with higher gears. On the Dana 30 their are two breaking points. You will need the carrier for 3.73 and up.
Might want the one piece axles in the rear too if you don't already have. I did that first as most people do.
If you know someone to do them (experienced) then you can buy the kit for front and rear pretty cheap. Like $4-500. That doesn't include carriers, but does include rebuild kit. You can pick up carriers fairly cheap on EBay, forums or CL.
Germy
Full Time Jeeper
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1971 dodge dart built 318
Thanks for the info! I'm pretty sure that I am running 2.73. Are replacing the axles something that a pro needs to do?
Old Dog
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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- 83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
not really, but you need to press the new bearings on the new axles.
You do want someone that knows what they are doing to do the gear set ups though.
CJ007
Old Time Jeeper
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- 83' CJ7-35's, granny T18, clocked, locked, 456s, D30 20 trussed- stitched-heim traction-1 piece shafts, CV dshaft, quick discos, xtended shock mounts, SOA, revolvers rear, braided lines, herculined, hand throttle, AMC saddle bags, rebuilt 258, D300.
x2
Not complicated like the gears. Need to remove rim, drum brake set up, bolts on the back to remove backing of brakes and disconnect brake line. Make sure you put it together in the right order like the instructions as I think the (brake) back plate slides over the axle before the bearing goes on (I may be wrong about order, this was some time ago). I just know I was concerned and thinking, glad I didn't "eff" that one up as you have to press the new bearing (or beat
) down the shaft on and put new races in the axle. I think I used grease, a rag around axle and a pipe wrench and tapped it down with a hammer. Wasn't too bad. I am sure I am missing stuff, but the instructions are pretty clear. Once the bearing is on and the races in, just slide the axle in and bolt up. Put brakes back on.
I had a the most difficult time getting that old hub bolt off and messing with drum brake springs.
Purple77CJ7
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- 1977 CJ 7; Amc 401 .30 over, Howell TBI, modified Dana 20 with Terra Low gears and twin sticks, NV 4500 5-speed, modified Dana 30 and Amc 20 both with 4.56 gears (narrow track), ARB air lockers front and rear, SSBC rear disc brake conversion, MICO Brake park brake, Navaho brake booster/ master cylinder, PowerTank CO2 tank.
That is how I'm set up,too. Running 33's, but I also have an Overdrive 5 speed tranny. Cruises good at highway speeds.
1986cj7
Senior Jeeper
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- 1986 cj7 258, t-176 4-speed, d-300, moser one piece axle in back in amc 20,G2 4.10 gears front and back, detroit truetac front and back,G2 4340 chromoly front axles in a d-30, 4" rough country lift, 33" tires
Not the axle isn't hard the hard part is set-up on the ring and pinion close isn't good enough it has to be prefect or you ring and pinion will not last long. I would sujest a one piece axle in the 20, at least. I also up graded the 30 axle with 4340 chromoly axles there about $658 for the set when I upgraded. It cost me about $800 in labor to replace the axles and set-up both ring and pinions. All the parts I put in cost about $2000. Do you have lockers or open diffs. Not sure but I think in your set-up it said you have warn lockers im not sure but I think you might be talking about your locking hubs and not the differantcal lockers. Which would be another thing to consiter while you in there regearing and put axles in.
