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Setting up For Failure?

Setting up For Failure?

TexasBlues

Jeeper
Posts
181
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Location
Marietta, GA
Vehicle(s)
1976 CJ5
AMC 360
AMC 20 and Dana 30
disc brake conversion COMPLETE by adding CJ7 W I D E Track axles... totally disassembled,
1979 JEEP CJ5 AMC 360, Project #2
1995 Chevy Tahoe,
2005 Chevy Tahoe,
1998 Toyota Tacoma (wifes truck)
Hey all-

I did a search, but didn't come up with much on the topic so I will start a thread...

putting my rebuilt 360 back into my 5, but thinking of CHANGING to headers and shorties... new aluminum intake and carb... new 4 core radiator...

never had a problem with vapor lock prior, but was running stock manifolds and rear corner duals...

am I setting myself up to be dealing with vapor lock problems if I go with the headers/shorties vs the original manifolds?

fan will be stock mechanical, as the draw from the engine wont be enough to harm the performance...

NOT climbing trees or racing...

as always, thanks in advance!!

mk
 
Running thin tube pipes like in a header will create a lot of underhood heat that will end up becoming part of your air fuel mixture thus making way for possible vapor lock. One way to get around this would be to create a fresh air intake system similar to the later model CJs, 4.0 Cherokees, and almost all of the modern autos. There are a lot of 360s with headers around that seem to do just fine without that modern air system, so you will probably be just fine without it.
 
Running thin tube pipes like in a header will create a lot of underhood heat that will end up becoming part of your air fuel mixture thus making way for possible vapor lock. One way to get around this would be to create a fresh air intake system similar to the later model CJs, 4.0 Cherokees, and almost all of the modern autos. There are a lot of 360s with headers around that seem to do just fine without that modern air system, so you will probably be just fine without it.

as in one of those AiRaid style intakes? cold air or whatever the @#%$ its called these days?

thanks Torxhead!
 
My 360 runs in the desert South West with headers and yes, under the hood, it was hotter than the hammers of hell. That's why a month or so ago I installed vents. But, with that being said, I never had over heating or vapor lock problems. The vents were for my peace of mind and the amount of heat that boils out of those vents is impressive.

Honestly, I'd leave the stock manifolds alone, most everybody who knows far more than I say that stock manifolds give better low end torque which is what CJ's are all about. Honestly though, it does look cool to show off your 360 all set up with headers, then there's the header rumble.

The true bad thing about headers is that they loosen up over time. Requiring that the bolts be tightened up occasionally. I admit to neglecting my header bolts and blowing a header gasket. Fortunately, when the engine is cool, it doesn't take long to replace one.
 
Last edited:
Check out stage 8 locking header bold for that issue. I've had great luck with them after replacing mine (no exaggeration) 6 times in 5 Months...

:D

They work great on the front locking hubs housing bolts too.
 
as in one of those AiRaid style intakes? cold air or whatever the @#%$ its called these days?

thanks Torxhead!
If you look at practically any modern engine you will notice that it gets its air intake from in front of the radiator mount, on either side of the radiator, whereas it is not in the engine compartment. A junk yard will probably have something of that design. Most guys, like me, have their air pickup in the engine compartment where hot air goes into the induction system. Creating the possibility of vapor lock along with a richer fuel mixture.
 
I have a 360 with headers. I simply ran ducting to the intake spot on the top right of the grill like later CJ's. I also have hood vents. No vapor lock but a ton of heat comes off the engine bay.
 
I had a 360 in my CJ5 with the long tube headers and ran many miles with no issues. The header / exhaust combo was from Pacesetter I believe. The under hood temp would be pretty high but it didnt overheat. I had a new 3 core radiator along with a stock replacement water pump. Mine also had the stock cast iron intake manifold. Id either wrap or ceramic coat the headers if I did it over.
 
^ exactly what he said. Mine is the exact same set up. I should wrap my headers.
 
i forgot to mention, i also have the BTF fenders, so no skirts, which *I* think will help alleviate some of the heat dissipation...

after reading all of these responses, i think i'll be fine... but i certainly do appreciate all of the input...

im going to have more questions as i get closer to putting in the 'new' engine... changing to HEI... one wire alternator etc...

i will apologize in advance for any and all questions that are elementary and/or ridiculous =)
 
AMC stock exhaust manifolds breath well, and run cooler then headers.
 
^ exactly what he said. Mine is the exact same set up. I should wrap my headers.

In the desert, that's OK...but don't wrap your headers (unless you don't care)if you get into ANY water...whether river or rain.

New headers will (usually) void warranty if wrapped. Most headers will fail earlier if wrapped. The fiberglass tape traps moisture in the tubes, leading to premature rust through or failed welds. If you have a 14 or 16 gauge tube, and quality welds...you might not notice...18 or thinner it's just a bad idea.:D

Yes, it's wayyyy cooler :D
 
^ true. My headers are already rusted. Just never got around to wrapping them.
 
I am leaning towards ceramic coated headers... and I don't know if i'll wrap or not...

what about a fan? for my 4 core?

the engine builder told me the mech fan is fine, but suggested maybe a H/D clutch fan (I cant remember if he said a flex fan or not)...

thoughts?
 
You jeepers with headers may want to check out the REM-FLEX header and collector gasket line.These gaskets are fantastic and won't blowout,burnout and can be reused. I have them on two different engines and no leaks.Only draw back is they will lighten the wallet a bit.Mike
 
I am leaning towards ceramic coated headers... and I don't know if i'll wrap or not...



what about a fan? for my 4 core?



the engine builder told me the mech fan is fine, but suggested maybe a H/D clutch fan (I cant remember if he said a flex fan or not)...



thoughts?


Regular old mechanical fan works for me. I do recommend some sort of good vent. Not sure which part of Texas you are in. I'm in Dallas.
 
Regular old mechanical fan works for me. I do recommend some sort of good vent. Not sure which part of Texas you are in. I'm in Dallas.

I USED to be in TX (Plano)... now im in GA... ATL and Dallas are on the nearly the same latitude, so maybe i'll be OK...
 
There's also a thread on here about hood louvres if you find yourself needing to vent more heat from the engine compartment.
 
as in one of those AiRaid style intakes? cold air or whatever the @#%$ its called these days?

this is what i have and its does draw cooler air, but some people will say the engine bay is heat soaked? but with out having skirting i feel like it really helps, I hada weber with normal air cleaner location. on long trips you better plan on VL or just hot has hell and don't want run right, I'v got about 4k on the new carb/coldair. Mpg bumped up about 2-3 and haven't had any issues since install. other then minor tuning @treeline:rolleyes:

DSCN1413.webp

DSCN1412.webp
 

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