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stalling out when braking

stalling out when braking

reptile610

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Location
st. clair shores, MI
Vehicle(s)
1982 CJ7: 151cu iron duke/ sr-4 trans/ dana 300/ dana 30 front amc 20 rear 3.73 gears.
not even sure where to put this but i noticed today that when stopping at a light or stop sign that most of the time if i hold down the brake pedal for too long of a time it'll stall out my engine. any frickin clue????? just noticed it today when i drove it up to my old high school where i'm going to be doing some work. it only happens when i'm slowing down, not when just sitting there holding the brake down. this is my first stick so maybe it's the way i stop???

when i come up to a light i put the jeep in neutral, push down the clutch and press down the brake pedal until i come to a stop. then i shift back up into 1st and wait for the light to turn green.

sorry to sound like a moron but i'm completely baffled at this.
 
You might try down shifting as you come to a stop. It may be time for a carb rebuild.
 
You might try down shifting as you come to a stop. It may be time for a carb rebuild.
yeah my carb is all sorts of messed up. although talking to somebody they mentioned that the bottom of the carb usually warps and it might just be better to buy a new one (my carb seems to be leaking fuel from somewhere, and only 1 of the barrels works)
 
I had bought a 4 brl carb carb with a warpped bottem what I did was bought the biggest file I could find a filed it flat. I took some time but it seamed to work.
 
I had bought a 4 brl carb carb with a warpped bottem what I did was bought the biggest file I could find a filed it flat. I took some time but it seamed to work.
it sucks because i'm in a conundrum. i have the iron duke engine and don't want to sink any money into it. a motor swap is in talks but i won't be able to do it for a few years more than likely. so i think i'm just going to have to bite the bullet and buy this

Weber WK490 - Weber 38/38 DGES Carburetor for 80-83 Jeep® with 4 Cylinder (151c.i.) - Quadratec

but obviously shop around because Qtech is way over priced.
 
I have never been a big fan of the weber carb before you spend that kind of cash I would pull your old carb off and check the bottem to see if it true and if it is just rebuild it it would be a whole lot cheaper for you and work better. IMO
 
If you have power brakes, a worn out leaking power booster can kill an engine due to a vacumn leak when the brake is applied. It does sound like you have other possibilites though.
 
If you have power brakes, a worn out leaking power booster can kill an engine due to a vacumn leak when the brake is applied. It does sound like you have other possibilites though.
no power brakes
 
i had a 88 s-10 that would do the same thing (kinda) and found it was an ICM? I didn't get a chance to fix it cuz i was borrowing the truck at the time. but it would stall out sometimes will driving, something about one of the connections was bad, rebuild something ...... i can't remember the rest but? hope it helps, .02 worth.
 
i had a 88 s-10 that would do the same thing (kinda) and found it was an ICM? I didn't get a chance to fix it cuz i was borrowing the truck at the time. but it would stall out sometimes will driving, something about one of the connections was bad, rebuild something ...... i can't remember the rest but? hope it helps, .02 worth.

Unfortunately that doesn't help. My iron duke has a SBC hei dist on it
 
Check and see if it is stalling due to an over rich or too lean of a fuel mixture. Like looking down the carb throat and looking for fuel dripping down or a spark plug deposit check. A carb overhaul might be in order. If it is too lean it could be due to a bad fuel pump.
 
Check and see if it is stalling due to an over rich or too lean of a fuel mixture. Like looking down the carb throat and looking for fuel dripping down or a spark plug deposit check. A carb overhaul might be in order. If it is too lean it could be due to a bad fuel pump.


ok so now that i'm on a computer i can go into abit more detail about my carb. first off. this is my first carb and it scares me. i can see that fuel is leaking from it somewhere but not entirely sure where at. only 1 of the barrels will open and shut when i play with the throttle. so i'm guessing yes the carb definitely needs to be repaired/replaced.
 
If you are leaking fuel then you have a leak that is allowing air to get in and mess with the mixture. This and the fact only one barrel is working really points to a serious carb problem. Get that worked out. Rebuild, order a rebuilt, or upgrade...any of these and I am sure you will see a huge difference in how your jeep runs.
 
I would be looking around for a vacuum leak. You don't have a lot of vacuum to begin with. If you have a leak, it will die.

I also have the Iron Duke. 1980. I have three free "vari jet" carbs for it if you want them. You pay the shipping.

I switched over to Weber and never looked back. BUT, you do need a fuel pressure regulator with them. They tend to run FAT.
 
I have the same exact stalling problem with my 84 CJ7 , AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l 6cyl. But for some reason, it doesn't do it all the time. I'm a helicopter mechanic by trade, so I have no experience with carburetors LOL. Before I attempt any maintenance on my carb, I would like to get all the info. Does anyone know the best resources for info on the Carter carb? Not looking to upgrade yet, just to fix what I already have if possible. Thanks
 
Before I upgraded my Carter to a MC2150, just doing the nutter bypass fixed a lot of the problems with the way the Carter was running....it was like having a new carb...so if you are not thinking of up grading, you may just want to do the nutter bypass. Really simple.
 
Thanks for the info, I'll give that a try. I enjoy working on my jeep, so even if it doesn't work, I'll still have fun turning wrenches.
 

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