Build Thread Starting from the frame 1977 CJ5

[Serdich77CJ5]

I am going to have to break out my camera again. Have all the frame repairs done and getting ready to cut off the bad body mounts and put the new ones on. Once I have that done, I can put the back end back together and start sealing it up.

 

[Serdich77CJ5]

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the metal sleeves from the bushings that are in the leaf springs, That's easier than a hammer and a chisel.

 

[Jeep Soup]

A picture of you can.
The center sleeve usually rust welds itself to the spring bolt and you cut off the bolt both sides by the Shackle or brackets.
Now if you were able to push out the Rubber Bushing and there is a Sleeve in the Spring "Eye".....
Try Heating it up, just enough to get the rust to let loose. But do not get the Spring Eye cherry hot. It can crack later in use.
And Beat the KRAAPP out of it.
If you have the entire spring out of the Jeep, use a Press. (If you don't have a press, a offering of Beer to a Buddy who does have one can make it a easier job to press them out)

My Nickel.95

 

[Serdich77CJ5]

That's where I'm at beating the out of it I guess.

 

[Jeep Soup]

Just a help. Some sleeves have a Joint or Seam. Start there and
"Peel" it loose. I could be more helpful if I could see what this sleeve looks like.

Other than that, good luck on the Blood Blisters and Busted Knuckles....

 

[Tim_Coble]

I've used a drill to "eat away" at the bushings before.

 

[Serdich77CJ5]

I got them out, managed to peel them back a little after heating, then I took a hack saw and cut through them. Once they were broken, I pulled the edge away and they broke free, and I was able to pound them out with the hammer.

 

[Jeep Soup]

Most Excellent

 

[Serdich77CJ5]

Another question. Getting ready to close up the rearend so I can install the fuel tank hanger and re-install the rear axle and suspension. How does the rear cross member attach; does it bolt on or is it welded on? Pictures of one would be handy along with some measurements so I get it placed right.

 

[Jeep Soup]

Good Morning,
Looking at the Original picture at the beginning of this thread
That rear Cross Member looks welded on the side of the Original frame.
That Rear Angle Iron Bar with All the Holes in it, looks like a Original CJ2a /3A/3B rear bracket.
Not saying that it was attached correctly, and I don't know what you have for a Replacement.
Later this morning I will get you a Picture of the Back of Jeep Soup.
This tow bar was ADDED later by the Previous Owners, but bit is a OEM part

 

[Jeep Soup]

I'm having my Monday POD Coffee.
I was able to find these 2 pix online of a "Jeep Tool Bar" for the back of the Early Jeeps.
Hope it helps.

 

[Serdich77CJ5]

I wish I knew how to do those arrow things in pictures. How does that piece that the tow bow is attached to mount to the frame. The one with the angle on the end. that is what I have

 

[Jeep Soup]

OK,
Mine is Bolted to the End of the Frame. But it looks like Someone Cut the very end of your frame off.

 

[Jeep Soup]

But on mine, they also tried to weld it in the Top.
And the Outside Body Mounts are in the Corners.
And FYI this Ball Hitch bracket I'm sure is Available online.

 

[Jeep Soup]

I think if you get the Right Measurements, you could weld it in place Easily NOW with no body on the frame.

 

[Serdich77CJ5]

I thought something had changed. Because the replacement piece came with some nuts and washers. I guess welding it on is my only option.

 

[Jeep Soup]

I feel for you.
I don't like coming in on what someone else has "Laid Down" and you have No Clue what was the Original Plan or at what stage did they "Laid Off" on it.
Vintage Vehicles come with ALL the Previous Owners repairs/modifications/bad planning ideas just to keep it running.

Others with the same era Jeep can get you the "Set Back" dimensions for welding it on so the rear body mounting holes are
"K for Close"

 

[Serdich77CJ5]

Oh I have found a few surprises. was removing what I thought was brake line that ran to the rear end and I thought from the master cylinder neither was connected to the master. There was a third line run that went to a splitter mounted on the rear axle that ran to the rear drums. I'm also pretty sure the Carb on it isn't right either.