Build Thread Starting from the frame 1977 CJ5
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Build Thread Starting from the frame 1977 CJ5
- Thread starter Serdich77CJ5
- Start date Start date:
- Last post Last post:
When I was looking at the old bearings from the old hubs there was a rubber gasket that isn’t withe the new set is this something I should get? It was on the back of the hub holding the bearings in.
Belizean
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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You could but mine are not. Unless sitting in water they age pretty well.
CJ
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Any mating surfaces should not get any paint or coatings. You need metal to metal contact to keep proper fitment. Things like dust shields and such are ok to paint.
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2004 Grand Cherokee (set up for expeditions)
Just a hint for the rest of your build. Take Lots of pictures with your phone or tablet.
I'm a quarter inch from Alzheimer's!!
It really helps especially parts that ....OH .. which side was up or out ?!!!
Mask Off any parts that have bearing or seal mating surfaces.
And brake parts look pretty only for a little while. Heat and Brake Dust will cover them shortly.
I'm a quarter inch from Alzheimer's!!
It really helps especially parts that ....OH .. which side was up or out ?!!!
Mask Off any parts that have bearing or seal mating surfaces.
And brake parts look pretty only for a little while. Heat and Brake Dust will cover them shortly.
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2004 Grand Cherokee (set up for expeditions)
That is a Axle Seal. Yes it is IMPORTANT. Look closely at the edge, there will be a seal number.
Take this seal to your local parts house to get a correct match for it. They can show you where to look for seal numbers too
Take this seal to your local parts house to get a correct match for it. They can show you where to look for seal numbers too
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- 1950 CJ-3A (Stock)
1/4 ton Military Trailer (Stock)
2004 Grand Cherokee (set up for expeditions)
Now when you go to re- install it.
Put it in the way it came out. The "Lip" is directional to keep the lubricant in.
It might be a little hard to start, but some GENTLE tapping will start it. Then use a flat piece of wood to set it in. If it is recessed, use a socket, piece of pipe, etc that is Close to the Outside Diameter and Gently tap it "Home".
DO NOT bend it, or deform the Center where the rubber seal "Lip" is.
I know you got this !!
Buy a extra one or two just in case. You can return the extras if you need to.
Put it in the way it came out. The "Lip" is directional to keep the lubricant in.
It might be a little hard to start, but some GENTLE tapping will start it. Then use a flat piece of wood to set it in. If it is recessed, use a socket, piece of pipe, etc that is Close to the Outside Diameter and Gently tap it "Home".
DO NOT bend it, or deform the Center where the rubber seal "Lip" is.
I know you got this !!
Buy a extra one or two just in case. You can return the extras if you need to.
JS thank you so much I was just sitting there staring at it and thinking ok now what do I do. I have been taking pictures, starting to feel like I need to take more. Front end is going to be a lot of extra work, I see that now. I will take pictures and will keep asking questions.
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- 1950 CJ-3A (Stock)
1/4 ton Military Trailer (Stock)
2004 Grand Cherokee (set up for expeditions)
Looks are FREE !!
All of us here are willing to help YOU.
NOW if you were not so Damn Far Away, I would be more than willing to come over to help you.
That's Help Drink Your Beer !!
I would not Steal any of your Thunder of building it yourself.
But show you how Not To Screw It Up the first time. Mistakes can be a Expensive Learning Tool.
Both Time and Money.
I figured you owe ME a Six Pack so far.....LOL
Keep posting,
We all are LEARNING TOO
All of us here are willing to help YOU.
NOW if you were not so Damn Far Away, I would be more than willing to come over to help you.
That's Help Drink Your Beer !!
I would not Steal any of your Thunder of building it yourself.
But show you how Not To Screw It Up the first time. Mistakes can be a Expensive Learning Tool.
Both Time and Money.
I figured you owe ME a Six Pack so far.....LOL
Keep posting,
We all are LEARNING TOO
At least a six pack, maybe even a shot to go with it.
CJ
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Ok looking for solutions radiator mounting hole seems a little rusted out and I think metal is to thin to weld a patch to. Am I going shopping
Something pretty to look at. I found these nice stainless steel dust shields one less thing to worry about
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- 1950 CJ-3A (Stock)
1/4 ton Military Trailer (Stock)
2004 Grand Cherokee (set up for expeditions)
OK,
ALL is Not Lost on this Radiator mount. Get your Wire Wheel or Flapper Disc out and Buff it down to Bare Steel. Get some "JB Weld" two part liquid steel.
Get some "Fender Washers" the correct Bolt Size.
Mix the JB Weld as per instructions, butter the Radiator mount around the hole, both sides. Stick a Fender washer to both sides. Test fit to line up the washer holes, remove radiator, secure with a extra bolt to hold alignment of the two washers.
Let it cure 24 hrs. Feext
Now you may have to WAIT just before you test fit the radiator
to Line Up the Hole and do this if you need the grill and fenders for
Alignment .
ALL is Not Lost on this Radiator mount. Get your Wire Wheel or Flapper Disc out and Buff it down to Bare Steel. Get some "JB Weld" two part liquid steel.
Get some "Fender Washers" the correct Bolt Size.
Mix the JB Weld as per instructions, butter the Radiator mount around the hole, both sides. Stick a Fender washer to both sides. Test fit to line up the washer holes, remove radiator, secure with a extra bolt to hold alignment of the two washers.
Let it cure 24 hrs. Feext
Now you may have to WAIT just before you test fit the radiator
to Line Up the Hole and do this if you need the grill and fenders for
Alignment .
I knew you would have an answer. I have never done anything like that but I'm up for the challenge. I think you are about up to a 12 pack now.
CJ
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'82 CJ8, 258, D300, AMC20, D30
I would just cut out a new replacement plate and weld it in on top or underneath the existing area. The small amount of extra thickness is not going to be an issue. The center hole should be the correct diameter for the rubber bushing and support bolt.
Forgive the image below but MS Paint only allows basic editing. The basic shape is shown and the plate would be what has the yellow lines.
CJ that’s what I’m thinking of doing
CJ you wouldn't happen to have a measurement on the
You Wouldn't happen to have a measurement on the size of the hole So when I need to drill it out I drill the right size.
CJ
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Unfortunately no, currently my CJs are not near me.
I'm pretty sure it is a 7/16 bolt. The bushing should have a metal sleeve.
Do you have the rubber bushing / sleeve to measure?
I know the bushing has a shank that measures about 1 3/8" in outside diameter to go into the hole.
Also, are you going to buy a full bushing kit to replace the ones you have? Almost all aftermarket kits are stiffer urethane and can be a little squeaky as will as non flexible. The only full rubber kits I know of if you go that way is made by Willies Overland but only available if you call them.
This is what the support bushing assembly looks like.
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