Straight pedal, move the darned post and 6* to redemtion

[Hedgehog]

Some of you will say .....Finally, I'm sick of hearing about it .... Honestly I agree......

My new disk brake conversion was a trial. First a bad Master Cylinder made the up until now simple job of bleeding brakes frustration and ultimately impossible. The replacement of that piece of junk with a power assist unit made the brakes actually dangerous. Tarry99 pushed me to consider moving the pin on the brake pedal from a 5:1 ratio to 4:1 ... and I did it. While at it I straightened the pedal. The result was a pedal an inch or so closer to the floor, but as to drivability is concerned, what a wonderful change. Moving the pin had it's desired affect. So, now I have brakes and I'm happy with them. But driving was a terrible experience. And Saturday was over.

Sunday - as was suggested 6* of wedge shim was added to the front. All went well, I replaced the spring stack bolt (Lumpy prepared me for that), added the shims. And drove and drove the CJ.

We went slow, we stomped on the brakes when it was safe to do it. We went fast, then faster yet, we hit the corners slow, we hit the corners fast, we even stomped on the brakes in a corner while ...... Well I am a CJ driver so I didn't stomp on the brakes too hard. I can report, NO PROBLEMS and I'm pleased.

Thank you all for your support with out which I just might have quite. .... Thank you!

 

[Lumpy Grits]

This is great news to read.
After about 200-300 miles of driving. Re-torque the axle U-bolts.

LG

 

[jammer1]

Good to hear. Did you by any chance take a pic of the pin location on the brake pedal. Did you move the pin up or down the pedal and how far from where the original pin was. Good to know for future reference and if anyone goes through this (a lot of us are changing the brakes to have better stopping with larger tires). It is good to hear you are on the road again.

 

[Hedgehog]

The original pin was 3" away from the pivot and the pedal was 15" long, easy math .... 5:1. I wanted 4:1 or move the pin 3.75" from the pivot.

Easy job, but not so easy to get too. The pedal mechanism needed to be removed. Both pedals pulled, figuring out how to reset the springs can be interesting .... VERY interesting ....... The hell for strong clutch spring is actually only in use for a very short length of the pedal throw. It's actually a cam over device. It holds the pedal up, but is not part of the rest of the pedal movement. Naturally this is time for and needed maintenance needed. For instance my brake pedal pin was warn with a moderately deep grove in the pin. I pulled the pin, welded up the grove and resurfaced it before pressing it in the and peening it solidly into the newly drilled hole. If you've never done it before the process can be daunting.

 

[Hedgehog]

The top pedal is the modified one. Notice the pin is moved and the arm is straightened. Straightening the pedal arm didn't lower the pedal much, but it is just enough to allow my heal to be on the floor while braking. There is plenty of brake, I can skid the wheels on pavement if needed without being close to the floor.

Edit: Straightening the pedal arm was trickier than expected. Heat would have been the way to do this, but my old neighbor barrowed my torches, forever! I cut wedges in the elbows and straightened the arm by hammering the wedges closed ....... NOT! ....... Naturally the arm cracked. So, I tacked the pieces to where it needed to be. Then V notched the crack. Weld a pass, wire wheel clean, weld a pass, wire wheel....... When done turn the piece over "V" notch and start welding again... pass ... wheel ... pass ... wheel. Let it cool slowly. When done grind her smooth. When it was done I pounded on it with a hammer, no cracks! Clean it up and paint.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Outstanding work!
Of all the jeep work I have done-The pedal mod you did, is something I haven't done.
LG

 

[IOPort51]

What master cylinder did you end up using?

 

[Hedgehog]

The "Whole She Bang" preassembled unit which uses the Corvette MC with a double diaphragm vacuum booster. This thing has the typical Jeep linkage which makes a dead bang center fit through the hole in the firewall.

 

[IOPort51]

you have 4 wheel disks?

 

[Hedgehog]

I've gone over this so many times in the last 6 months to keep those that have been reading my posts I'm not going into great detail when multiple issues have been over come. ........ No it's not a 4 wheel disk brake machine, it's a conventional disk front, drum rear. It is a disk/drum setup made by a company that specializes in converting brake systems, in this case it went from manual drum/drum to vacuum assist disk/drum. The MC is a disk/drum unit with a disk/drum proportioning valve. From what I can gather the MC is a Corvette MC or probably a GM MC, maybe I'm wrong, not that you are, but if someone is so inclined it isn't necessary to hound me about it. I know what was ordered from the brake company and now the CJ will run, drive and stop. For me that means, WINNER!

 

[Torxhead]

Good to hear and I am sure you are glad to be done with it.

 

[Hedgehog]

Oh boy, you don't even know how good it is to have this over and done with. It's been weighing on my mind for a long while now. The CJ isn't complete, but the big heavy stuff is done. We are pretty much down to installing a new dash with a new gauge configuration, finishing up the onboard air and new seat belts.

 

[IOPort51]

Apparently I missed the memo. What is the link to your thread?

I've gone over this so many times in the last 6 months to keep those that have been reading my posts I'm not going into great detail when multiple issues have been over come. ........ No it's not a 4 wheel disk brake machine, it's a conventional disk front, drum rear. It is a disk/drum setup made by a company that specializes in converting brake systems, in this case it went from manual drum/drum to vacuum assist disk/drum. The MC is a disk/drum unit with a disk/drum proportioning valve. From what I can gather the MC is a Corvette MC or probably a GM MC, maybe I'm wrong, not that you are, but if someone is so inclined it isn't necessary to hound me about it. I know what was ordered from the brake company and now the CJ will run, drive and stop. For me that means, WINNER!

 

[HackFabrication]

We are pretty much down to installing a new dash with a new gauge configuration...

DD Fab: https://sites.google.com/site/doubledfab/







Absolutely the greatest guy to deal with!

 

[Hedgehog]

Hack - Similar to yours, but different. I've had some difficulty with heat and sheet metal. When I welded up some PO holes the metal warped on the left hand side. It is nice and flat right now, but I don't like the amount or in this application any filler. I've got another dash and I'm considering how to do it right this time. At this point I'm considering cutting the old dash off right along the left hand side of the cluster pop out. It didn't warp when I welded it the first time, maybe I'll get lucky again.

 

[gyvrr]

What brake company did you get the whole she bang from? I've been looking into adding power to the brakes to satisfy the law when towing. Some states require controlled braking on the towed vehicle. Been lucky so far.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I've been looking into adding power to the brakes to satisfy the law when towing. Some states require controlled braking on the towed vehicle. Been lucky so far.

Power brakes don't do anything unless the engine is run'n.
What states require this braking system on a motor vehicle in tow?
Flat-tow'd my Jeep all over the western USA with no issues.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Over a certain weight limit or it might be length powered brakes are required in some states. But, power brakes and powered brakes aren't the same thing. I believe you are thinking of powered trailer brakes which are electric in nature. Other than that I know little about them. Some U-Haul trailers have a brake system built into the tow hitch, I believe they are called surge brakes. Slow the tow vehicle, pressure is put on the hitch and the trailer brakes slow the trailer taking pressure off the hitch which releases the brake.

 

[gyvrr]

I have been told that most states won't enforce the tow law until there has been an accident. Kind-da like seat belts and cell phones. There are several companies that produce assisted braking for towed vehicles. They designed small vacuum pumps for the booster and a brake peddle "pusher". They also designed in auto braking if the vehicle should come loose. Some are designed for diesel pushers and set up air assist to towed vehicle. Also, I was told some boarder crossings into Canada will check and refuse you to tow. My plans also include driving my jeep at the top of the world. So I got-ta get it there.

 

[Hedgehog]

I wonder why you'd need a booster on the Jeep. Vacuum is available right from the engine. It seems like most trailer places would have systems for you.

If I were to do it again I wouldn't use the company I used. They are all about BIG powerful brakes. Also, and I hate to admit this, I'm waiting on a new booster from them. I got my system to work properly, at least it seemed to work properly. Then I noticed that the first brake on slowing to a stop light was great, but if I came back on the brake it was hard as a rock. Un boosted, there is plenty of vacuum, the booster has a leak in it. This upsets me to no end. First a bad master cylinder from Crown (China), now a bad booster from another company (another China product). I'm losing faith in parts companies, especially those that use Chinese parts. There are several right here in the US that rebuild stock jeep boosters built right here in the USA.