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T-150 Trans & Dana 20 T-case Rebuild

T-150 Trans & Dana 20 T-case Rebuild
Okay, since you rushed ahead I'll star with the questions:
My garage is fairly small so I would like to roll the jeep out while I work on the tranny, one the tranny and tcase are off will the engine support it's own weight?
Also how high do I need to go to be able to get the tranny out?
Thanks
 
Not sure what you mean by 'will the engine support it's own weight?' but I'm gonna assume that you mean 'can you remove the Transmission without blocking up the engine?' I have removed Transmission before on V8 Jeeps without shoring up the engine, but since I don't know what engine you have - I would have to say just wedge some wood between the block and the firewall... Always the best way to keep the engine in place whether a V8 or I6.


'Also how high do I need to go to be able to get the tranny out? You should not need to raise the Jeep. Just pull the shifters before you yank that Transmission / Transfer Case combo and lower it down to the ground... :)

 
You answered both my questions.
The block of woods sounds like a good thing to know.
Thanks!
 
Didn't block the engine, I-6 just left the motor on the mounts and was good to go.

I suggest getting an ATV jack, a regular floor jack and the skid/Transfer Case /tranny is a PITA.

I worked under a carport with a 18x10 shed at the end, sitting on the floor.
 
I finished the job up yesterday, I had no idea of how big a difference it would make. Its like driving a new car.
The job it self was no big deal. Time consuming and some heavy lifting but not bad.
I think the only proplem was figuring out what the "arbor tool" mentioned in all three books and the paper from Novak was and what it was used for in reassembly.
I used a 9/16 socket on an extention in place of the "arbor tool" to remove the counter shaft, but in reassembly the "arbor tool" is ment to act as a shorter stand in for the counter shaft. It took about 5 readings to figure this out.
Once I figured it out, I cut a piece of 1/2 id pvc pipe to take its place and hold the needle bearings in place while the counter shaft sat at the bottom of the case while the main shaft was installed. It was just about a perfect fit and worked perfectly. Although one thing I would do differently, would be to use a file to tapper the end of the pvc in order to make it easier to pass out of the holes and thrust washers.
Now if you'll excuse me, I'm gonna take the old boy for a joy ride!
 
I used the gasket that came in the kit with sealent on both sides.
And crossed fingers of course.
 
I used the supplied gasket and used that red spray on sealant and mine is leaking bad.
 
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I bet that made you happy. Although I'm sure you were really looking forward to pulling it out all over again.
 
Well to figure it out I strapped the Transmission and dropped the skid plate/crossmember, then started unbolting the Transfer Case . As soon as I removed the lower bolt the fluid pored out and then I was like WTF, DUH. Thread seal and I was good to go.
 
I am new here so please excuse if this is already answered elsewhere. My J10 shifter has 'dropped' to where the square 't' on the bottom of the shift lever is below the shift rails. I assume the fulcrum dowel will fix this? Also this 't' which is the bottom end of the shift lever is almost completely rounded. I can't find where to replace this shift lever and would appreciate any suggestions.
 

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