T177 and Skid Plate Alignment

[Neuner]

Went from a T-5 to T177. I am having slight mounting misalignment. If I mount the plate, the tranny mount is off by about 1/4 of an inch Northwest of where it needs to be.

Also, the front driveshaft slightly rubs against the plate whereas there use to be about a 1/4" clearance before. If I didn't have a CV joint, it would be much worse.

I've tried forcing both the plate and/or tranny around to get them to align with no luck. I really don't want to butcher the plate if I don't have to. I would like to find the cause first.

I attached photos of the holes I'm using and also how even the tranny stabilizer bolt is at an angle in an attempt to align.

I've tried several different variations of the mounting holes on the plate, frame and tranny and this is the closest I've gotten. What in the hell could be wrong?

 

[Torxhead]

Looking on the net, there have been a few swaps like this. There are a lot of holes in the late model CJ skid plate/tranny mount, so maybe trying a few more locations could do the trick. Plus it is possible that the engine could have moved around a bit during the swap. Make sure that the clutch bellcrank is perpendicular to the frame.

 

[Neuner]

Thanks, I'll check out that alignment.

I did search the net but the majority I read about were an inch or two off. Mine is sooooo close but just not enough to pull into place. I did read about loosening the engine mounts to see if that allows it to align and to take the torque pressure off of the mounts. I think I may give that a try. Otherwise ratchet strap pull it in line? It is more side-to-side than north or south. I think the radius of the pull to the side may align the minute north to south delta.

About the driveshaft clearance, can I cut that part out without losing structural integrity?

 

[Torxhead]

If your motor mounts are shot, the engine will tend to head to the rear. Putting the valve cover close to the firewall, the gear shifter closer to the shifter cover, and putting that clutch bellcrank out of alignment. That will put a lot of stress on the frame mounted bellcrank pivot and it can break. For your front driveshaft, it is pretty close now but maybe after the skidplate gets moved around it might have more clearance, I don't think it would hurt to give it a bit more clearance. a spacer under the rear Transmission mount would lift it up a bit. This would be a good time to replace all the motor mounts anyway. I don't think much of the rubber mounts, the neopreme ones are better and the "Bomb Proof" mounts made by M.O.R.E. are best.

 

[Only in a Jeep CJ]

FOR THE 6 CYLINDER:
There are 3 positions the stock pan can fit on the 4 holes on each side of the frame.
The T-4 , T-5 , and SR4 use the rear 3 holes in the frame and the rear holes on the pan.
The T-177/6 uses the front 3 holes in the frame and the front holes in the pan.
The last position is rear frame holes and forward pan holes. This moves it back the furthest for ? Automatic?
The torque arm uses the same holes in the pan as before, the 2 elongated holes and the one for the end arm bushing.

With the front 2 engine mounts being rubber and slightly slanted rearward, there will be a shift to the rear of the engine/Transmission /t case combo when only the front to mounts are in play.
It is not uncommon for the torque arm to pan holes to be off up to .5 '' or so front to rear and the same or more left to right.

I always install the torque arm bolt to the pan first and then the pan to the frame with no weight and then lower the combo down until the Transmission bushing just touches the pan AND the The Transmission bushings comes as two studs OR two threaded holes. The studs are a little harder to allign as they make the combo higher so the distance is off a tad. I prefer the bolts as its easier to line up the holes.
A ratchet strap can pull everything forward and your foot can push things left and right.

 

[Neuner]

The torque arm uses the same holes in the pan as before, the 2 elongated holes and the one for the end arm bushing.

I have the plate mounted in the frame with the set of holes as you describe. I'm currently trying to align with the middle set of holes in the plate for the Transmission and stabilizer mount as I marked in my last pic. Are those correct? The T-176 has two rows of three holes. I'm to use the row that is closest to the engine, correct?

I don't think the PO had the plate set up right for the T-5 especially since he didn't have a stabilizer or bar included so it's hard to use as reference.

Just want to make sure before I force this into place.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Only in a Jeep CJ]

Yes, the holes closest to the engine on the bottom of the Transmission , the second set of holes in the pan for the bushings, and the forward set of frame and pan mounting holes.
I think you have it, just need to push it around some.
Your torque arm bolt and bushing is not tight/right though.
you need a washer above and below the pan at the pan and it bolted tight to the pan.
You need a spacer at the bottom, the large washer, the bottom bushing should have the torque arm resting on it, the upper bushing, the top large washer and the nut.
You may need to trim off a inner lip on of of the two bushings to make their gap the same thinkness as the arm.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

You really don't want to move the fan any closer to the radiator.
I would open the holes up and use oversized washers that once you have everything in place. You can tack weld the washers to 'lock' them in place.
LG

 

[Neuner]

Yes, the holes closest to the engine on the bottom of the Transmission , the second set of holes in the pan for the bushings, and the forward set of frame and pan mounting holes.
I think you have it, just need to push it around some.

Thanks for the info and confidence boost.

Got it.

Was anxious to take it for a test drive and......engine won't start. Now I have to figure out a fuel supply problem even though all I did was LET IT SIT IN PEACE Not doing anything. Spoiled $&#^$@ brat.

 

[Neuner]

Looks like it had a belch in the fuel line before the carb. Finally got to test drive it. Shifting and all the workings were smoooooooth. Just have it too tight on the adjuster so it engages too late. Easy fix.

 

[Only in a Jeep CJ]

Your torque arm bolt and bushing is not tight/right though.
you need a washer above and below the pan at the pan and it bolted tight to the pan.
You need a spacer at the bottom, the large washer, the bottom bushing should have the torque arm resting on it, the upper bushing, the top large washer and the nut.
You may need to trim off a inner lip on of of the two bushings to make their gap the same thickness as the arm.

Notice the gap between the bushings is now the thickness of the metal in the mount arm. So its not flopping around, but secure. One bushing has the inner lip shaved off to accomplish this.The spacer brings the bottom bushing up where it needs to be.

Missing in the photo is the two washers at the pan, one below with he nut and one above to keep the stud from rocking. It fits over the small shoulder under the built in nut.