tf999

[graycj7]

My 85 CJ7 has the TF999 . When I shift through the gears you can not feel the connection through first second and third. It is as if the po wore something out in the trany shifting from drive to reverse trying to rock it back and forth trying to get unstuck. Can anyone tell me witch direction to go to repair this. Or what it is that's worn out. Any help appreciated.

 

[Torxhead]

I would go with worn out. An auto Transmission can be adjusted though. Maybe its time for the pros to look at it.

 

[Busted Knuckles]

The description of your problem, is rather difficult to work with. Im not sure what your trying to say.

My guess, is your trying to describe a low line pressure condition, but you loose me with the:

It is as if the po wore something out in the trany shifting from drive to reverse trying to rock it back and forth trying to get unstuck

Not sure what your trying to say.

That family of 3 spd auto is a really simple Transmission . Im not a Chrysler Transmission "guy" but have been into 727s and 32RHs, (similar to your 999). I believe the 999 is basically a 904 with additional clutches, but that is from memory.

You can almost bench one of these Transmission with a screw driver, a hammer and a couple pliers (that is an exaggeration, but not to far off). In other words, if you want to bench it yourself, not a big deal if you sufficient mechanical aptitude (some tools, and a sufficient shop manual).

With more and concise feedback from you ( much more clear and complete description of your problem ), we might be able to help, otherwise, pull it and tear it down, or take it to your favorite Transmission guy.

 

[graycj7]

Thanks ill try to explain better. I have replaced all of the shifter linkage bushings including the bushings in the bellcrank. Now lets say I disconnect the linkage from the Transmission and I shift it by hand at the trany itself. I can shift it through the gears but it does not click into each gear it just goes through them with no resistance. Although all the gears in the trany work. If this still makes no sense ill talk to a trany pro. Thanks for the replies anyhow.

 

[Busted Knuckles]

" Tranny Pro "

 

[TeamRush]

My 85 cj7 has the tf999. When I shift through the gears you can not feel the connection through first second and third. It is as if the po wore something out in the trany shifting from drive to reverse trying to rock it back and forth trying to get unstuck. Can anyone tell me witch direction to go to repair this. Or what it is that's worn out. Any help appreciated.

Sounds like, but not exactly sure here...

1. Low/Reverse clutch band adjustment.
These bands are INSIDE the case, just behind valve body, and if you don't periodically adjust this band so it can allow the directional drive hub up, the vehicle won't move.

2. 'O' Ring seal between pan filter and suction line.
When the 'O' Ring gives up, the pump sucks air.
This is usually accompanied by a whine in the pump as it tries to process air.

3. Throttle Valve linkage from carb to transmisson throttle valve.
TF does not have a vacuum can to determine the throttle position/load on the engine/vehicle.

TF uses a throttle HARD linkage from carb to throttle valve,
And in all AMC's wisdom, they used PLASTIC linkage retainers and bushings.

The linkage is also connected to a MOVING carb, a STATIONARY fire wall mount or two, Then to the MOVING Transmission again.
These plastic bushings/retaining clips regularly wear out, crack and fall out/off the carb, out of the linkage and allow that linkage to come WAY out of adjustment.

When this happens, the Transmission *Thinks* there isn't any load, you aren't trying to get anywhere, so the throttle valve doesn't throw pump pressure against your clutches, they just slip and drag a little and you get nowhere.

-----------------

If it were mine,
Filter/'O' Ring/-Low/Reverse Band adjustment first.
You can ALWAYS use a good clean filter, and the filter kit with new pan gaskets it cheap and easy to install.

While the pan is off, adjust that rear band...

This is pretty easy,
LOOSEN THE NUT,

Back the adjuster BOLT out about 5 turns, make sure the bolt turns free and there is no binding in the pivot arm.

TIGHTEN THE BOLT TO 72 IN.LB. (8 Nm)
(THAT'S INCH Pounds, NOT Foot Pounds!)

TF999 , Back that bolt out 4 Turns (From 72 In.lbs.)
TF-727, Back that bolt out 2 Turns (From 72 In.lbs.)

HOLD THE ADJUSTER BOLT, TIGHTEN THE NUT TO 25 In.Lb (34 Nm)

Unless the friction material is COMPLETELY GONE from the band, this should get you moving Low/Reverse again...

------------

If you feel comfortable with this, here is a tip for the INSIDE adjuster (NEVER REMOVE THE OUTSIDE OVERRUN (KICK DOWN) BAND ADJUSTER STICKING OUT THROUGH THE CASE!

This is JUST for this rear band you can get to...
That bolt is a PAIN to get an INCH POUND torque wrench on (Because of the rounded over/square head on the adjuster bolt)

Most of us have screw driver sockets, so a screw driver slot in the bolt head makes future adjustments MUCH easier...

CAREFUL WITH DREMEL TOOL OR HACK SAW, THEN THIS ADJUSTER FITS A COMMON DRIVE TOOL FOR YOUR INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH,
And it's MUCH easier to hold in place while you are tightening the jam nut.

IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH TAKING THIS BOLT OUT,
AND GETTING THAT BAND ADJUSTER BACK UNDER IT,
DO NOT DO THIS!

99 times out of 100 the band goes no where, Once in a while you have to get a screw driver and pick, bring the band lip back down where the adjuster bolt can get hold of it...

---------------------------------------------
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I CAN'T STRESS THIS ENOUGH! Once that rear band is adjusted...

WITHOUT THAT THROTTLE VALVE LINKAGE WORKING CORRECTLY, This trans is just going to smoke clutches and be a real pain in the butt!

So, even if this gets you moving, I'd take time, inspect all that hard rod linkage, replace bushings, make sure the pins and stops are all where they are supposed to be, ect.

The INTERNAL valve for throttle valve is RARELY out of adjustment,
While the EXTERNAL linkage is 99.999% of all complaints about shifting too soon, soggy shifts, delayed shifts from Park/Neutral to Low/Rev., ect. ONCE THE REAR BAND HAS BEEN ADJUSTED...

----------------- Does this help you any with a direction to go? -----------

 

[TeamRush]

The description of your problem, is rather difficult to work with. Im not sure what your trying to say.

My guess, is your trying to describe a low line pressure condition, but you loose me with the:



Not sure what your trying to say.

That family of 3 spd auto is a really simple trans. Im not a Chrysler trans "guy" but have been into 727s and 32RHs, (similar to your 999). I believe the 999 is basically a 904 with additional clutches, but that is from memory.

You can almost bench one of these trans with a screw driver, a hammer and a couple pliers (that is an exaggeration, but not to far off). In other words, if you want to bench it yourself, not a big deal if you sufficient mechanical aptitude (some tools, and a sufficient shop manual).

With more and concise feedback from you ( much more clear and complete description of your problem ), we might be able to help, otherwise, pull it and tear it down, or take it to your favorite trans guy.

You are REAL close... As close as anyone I've ever heard say they were 'Transmission ' guys...

TONS of these Jeeps have TF-999s and they are DIRT SIMPLE to rebuild!
(wife will complain when she finds tranny parts in the dishwasher, but I can live what that...)

Jeeps get stuck, people 'Rock' them to get them out instead of digging in a straight line.
The rear band gets REALLY HAMMERED ON,
And lets not forget, when they are axles deep in mud/sand, the throttle valve linkage IS NOT allowing the throttle valve to deliver full line pressure to the Low/Reverse servo, so the band doesn't ever get fully engaged,
It's slipping the ENTIRE TIME cooking the friction material right off it.

With the friction material worn off, there is too much clearance, it can't grab the drum,
And with throttle valve linkage now bent or having the PLASTIC bushings knocked out of it (through time or with abuse) the band STILL isn't getting the line pressure it should...

So it continues to slip/cook with time...

The biggest difference between 904 and 999 I know about is the 904 wasn't supposed to go behind anything bigger than the 'Slant Six', 225 CI of gutless engine,
While the TF999 has a reinforced case and was rated for the 318 CI V-8, and has an extra clutch/disc in the front.

*Supposedly* there was a version of the 904 with a lock up torque converter, but I've never seen one up close and personal... The TF999 never came with a lock up converter, there is no parts listing for a lock up in a 999 anywhere in any of my books, and I've never seen one in the 100 or so I've had on my bench...
But they WILL ask you about a lock up converter when you order parts, just tell them it's NOT a locking converter and you will get the correct converter.

If they are asking that EVERY TIME, there is either a misprint in the books somewhere, or some of the converters interchange and the question pops up... Just tell them NO LOCK UP...

 

[Busted Knuckles]

Nice post Team Rush !

 

[TeamRush]

Nice post Team Rush !

Thanks, you pick up a thing or two along the way, I just took some pictures here and there...

I didn't stay in a 'Holiday Inn Express' but I have slept under the Jeep waiting for someone to show up with parts/tools...

I would be REALLY surprised if it's not an 'O' ring that gave up between filter and suction, For some reason, that 'O' ring is a PAIN.
Or that rear band adjustment.

Not saying that a Transmission this old won't have 'Other Issues', like just flat being worn out,
But this *Should* get it to at least TRYING to pull itself...

If it tries to pull, then it's usually rebuildable if you find other issues.
If it just won't even try, it's a shoot on rebuild or replace.
Parts can cost as much as a 'Replacement' sometimes...

I didn't really want to get into pump pressure ports, ect. since the 'Average' guy doesn't know what he's looking for even if he gets the correct gauges.

-----------

One tip,
If you have one of these apart, or a TF-727, change that darn plastic check valve for the drum drain!
That stupid thing causes more complaints than I can remember, and the brass/steel version is a whopping $2 when you have it apart!

The complaints on that are when you put it in gear, forward or reverse, you have to rev the engine up to get it moving the first time, and sometimes when it sits and idles...
And that's AFTER you adjust the throttle valve.

That darn valve cracks, lets the drum drain completely out, so you have to wait for it to fill up to apply any pressure to the clutches. A REAL pain in the butt. I used to find the center of the valve in the pan all the time... I already KNEW it was going to be a 'Fun' day when I ran into that little piece of plastic.

 

[graycj7]

If I am going to rebuild my tranny would putting in a lower first gear help with lowering my four wheel low range first gear speed.