The UPS man came to my door today,

[kicknjeep]

Sorry didn't take my viagra today....

 

[coldwater]

Hell, a tick shouldn't be anything much. Prolly the good ol AMC valve tappet rattle ferry coming to visit. Try runnin a can of marvel through the oil to see if it wont clean it out a bit. Mines been rattlin for years now. How did the plugs look when you pulled them? The rough idle could be a roasted plug, a bad wire connection from someone making crappy wires

 

[Petescj]

Oh man Its on now, you know how sensitive he is.

The rough idle could be a bad wire connection from someone making crappy wires

 

[2lostspace]

O WOW! CW you just opened a can of worms there!

EB what was the cost on this? Might try this once you ran it for a while.

 

[elwood blues]

~ a bad wire connection from someone making crappy wires

Oh man Its on now, you know how sensitive he is.

Here's what I've got to say to the two of you;

 

[coldwater]

Was it something I said???

 

[kicknjeep]

And here I thought it was gonna be another boring Monday.....

 

[elwood blues]

You guys are hilarious...


Anyway, I just came back in, one of the shops here has a mechanics stethoscope, we got in and listened to all of the cylinders, the ticking is definately coming from #1 cylinder. I think I've got a bottle of Marvel in the garage, I'll figure on changing the oil this week and dumping that in there, maybe that'll loosen things up. If not, I haven't done a valve job in forever... that may end up being my next project.

 

[elwood blues]

EB what was the cost on this? Might try this once you ran it for a while.

Ignition box, coil, plugs, plug wires, adapter to fit the Ford duraspark, cap, rotor, and remanufactured distributor totalled right around $400.

It doesn't matter though, you want to spend that money on my Tuffy console, not an ignition system upgrade...

 

[2lostspace]

Yes I do want that tuffy box. This will be in the future after the reviews that you give. I would say in about a year after you work out all the bugs on the EW upgrade.

 

[coldwater]

SHOTS FIRED!!

 

[Petescj]

Omg thats hilarious. Thanx for the offer but I'll pass.

Here's what I've got to say to the two of you;

 

[elwood blues]

Yes I do want that tuffy box. This will be in the future after the reviews that you give. I would say in about a year after you work out all the bugs on the EW upgrade.

A year Shoot, that's not giving me an aweful lot of time, you better figure on at least two years

 

[dalefan88]

elwood i have the same ruff idle problem as you. first i thought it was the pos carter bbd. but when i put the motorcraft on it was still there. i have messed with the timing but no help. had it since i got it. i was hoping switching to the gm 4 pin module would help but it didnt.

 

[elwood blues]

Thanks dalefan, that makes me feel a little better

That the noise that I thought was an exhaust leak but finally figured out isnt, it's definately a sticky valve spring. Weather it's sticking, loose, tight, or getting ready to break, I don't know yet. I'm hoping that the bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil will help it out. I also discovered that my passenger side motor mount is going bad and I'll probably need to replace the motor mounts soon, that has a lot to do with my engine shake.

 

[elwood blues]

Customer 09/16/2009 08:57 AM

CUSTOMER INFO
E-mail Address:
Year: 1978
Make: JEEP
Model: CJ7
Engine: 4.2L
Transmission: T-18A

EXISTING CAM
Computer Controlled: No

IGNITION BOX
Ignition Box Brand: Summit
Type: Street & Strip Digital CD

COIL
Coil Brand: Summit
Type: Street & Strip
Coil: Remote Coil

DISTRIBUTOR
Distributor Brand: OEM (motorcraft)
Advance Type: Vacuum Advance
Distributor Cap Style: Female Socket

BATTERY
Battery Brand: Interstate
Voltage: 12

ALTERNATOR
Alternator Brand: OEM
Hook Up: Standard

SPARK PLUG
Spark Plug Brand: Autolite
Spark Plug Number: 985
Plug Gap: .045

=============================
Question: I recently purchased and installed a Summit Racing Street & Strip Digital CD Ignition (SUM-850602) and matching coil in my 1978 Jeep CJ7, I want to make sure I wired it correctly, and find out why my tachometer isn't working.

I used the MSD (p/n 8869) Dura-Spark Distributor adpater to plug the Summit ignition directly in to my OEM distributor using the purple and green magnetic pickup wires. Was this the optimal way to go, or should I have wired it in as per the intructions using the white wire trigger? Alos I'm not sure what wire/where to wire in the yellow wire marked 'tachometer' out of the Summit ignition box. I connected the yellow 'tachometer' wire to the green wire that was connected to the negative side of the OEM coil, but the tachometer doesn't work. Will I need a tachometer adapter (SUM-850512) to make my stock tachometer work?

Thank you,
Nick


Response (Mark) 09/17/2009 04:45 PM
Yes, the way you wired it is best, bypassing the Duraspark box. If your Tach is not working, it's not capable of reading the square wave signal from the tach output on the box and will require a tach adapter to work. Yes, the SUM-850512 or the MSD-8920 (Half the price) should fix this.

Thanks,
Mark

____________________________________________________________

I submitted this to Summit Racing's online tech support, the next day I got a responce. Talk about some awesome customer service

 

[CJ]

I submitted this to Summit Racing's online tech support, the next day I got a responce. Talk about some awesome customer service

One of the reasons Summit is one of my favorite suppliers...

 

[dalefan88]

Thanks dalefan, that makes me feel a little better

That the noise that I thought was an exhaust leak but finally figured out isnt, it's definately a sticky valve spring. Weather it's sticking, loose, tight, or getting ready to break, I don't know yet. I'm hoping that the bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil will help it out. I also discovered that my passenger side motor mount is going bad and I'll probably need to replace the motor mounts soon, that has a lot to do with my engine shake.

i tried mystery oil and zmax in mine and still have the noise. this is probally what is causing our ruff idle.

 

[BrockGrimes]

Try the fuel additive trick in that fuel additive thread I posted.
It'll clean and lube the valves.

 

[elwood blues]

Went for a ride today and got her good and warmed up. Brought her back to the garage and had a good listen inside the engine, stuck a really long screwdriver down into the oil fill opening and pressed it against the valve cover, and had a listen that way.

I think I'm beyond a sticky valve that needs lubricated. I'm thinking winter project may end up being a valve job.