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Transmission mounts

Transmission mounts
W

weithman5

Jeeper
Posts
181
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Location
Illinois
Vehicle(s)
84 cj-7 renegade (original owner)
426f4a7f84d41a1b317080e8fe8b5fbe.jpg

So I am getting ready to bolt up the skid plate and new Transmission mounts. When I took mine off the whole thing kind of disintegrated before I got pictures. Does anyone have a good diagram? I can’t find one in any manual


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Your profile doesn't say much about your Jeep, so we have to guess at what Transmission you might have. Here is a picture of one type of Transmission setup:



The red arrow points to the stabilization mount. This keeps the torque of the engine from twisting the entire driveline. The other part is just a 4 studded block of rubber or poly material.
 
Last edited:
Make sure you get the skid bolted to the correct set of 3 holes in the frame. There are 4 on each side of the frame. If they are wrong it will cause a lot of frustration as the mount bolts will not line up with the holes in the skid.

If you are going to mount the Transmission and engine as a unit, it's not a good time to find things aren't where they should be with 700 #'s hanging from the lift.

Don't be surprised if you need to spread or draw in the frame to get the skid on.

Having a bottle jack and a 2x4 or a ratchet strap handy can move things along.
 
I can't get any of your pics to load. I am going to put engine in first then clutch then Transmission . I wanted to get the skid plate on just so I could say I've started[emoji3]
 
thanks for the pictures. they would not load on my ipad but was able to get them on desktop computer.
 
e08af428b0463e6205b8936b064e50b6.jpg

Was getting ready to bolt on skid plate to check fit when I noticed the original 4 long bolts had a taper/thread bare end. Short ones do not. Is this a concern?


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That third one from the top looks pretty bad. I would suggest using the full length of the diameter for full strength. Like for a 7/16" diameter thread, use 7/16" long thread engagement into the mating thread.
 
The taper is to help get them started.
 
The two rusty ones are original the others are replacements. Thanks for the feedback guys. I thought there might be something special about that taper
 
The taper is used on assembly line work with air-tools to prevent cross-thread.
Not needed for your rebuild.
I do suggest you 'chase' each hole with a tap.
LG
 
Post up pictures when all done.
Don't be afraid of using a drop or 2 of blue locktite on those bolts.
LG
 
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