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95 wrangler with 88 4.2 carbed with puguetoe(?) 5spd both fresh rebuilds, spring over, 3inch body, spring arched 2 inches and stiffened, 10 inches of total lift on 36inch tsls 8k mile marker winch, ect.
1969 dodge charger rt se 440, 727 torqueflite 3.55 suregrip with 8 3/4 axle, everyone is making her a headache for me but i love her 1000xs more then my jeep
2005 dodge 3500 cummins 6speed dually work truck, not mine
95 wrangler with 88 4.2 carbed with puguetoe(?) 5spd both fresh rebuilds, spring over, 3inch body, spring arched 2 inches and stiffened, 10 inches of total lift on 36inch tsls 8k mile marker winch, ect.
1969 dodge charger rt se 440, 727 torqueflite 3.55 suregrip with 8 3/4 axle, everyone is making her a headache for me but i love her 1000xs more then my jeep
2005 dodge 3500 cummins 6speed dually work truck, not mine
It will be tough to turn & hard on power steering belts. You would be advised to have a twin stick set up. That way you could easily shift the front axle in to neutral to turn.
The diff will only be as strong as those $1 stick welds...
If it breaks you will not have any front drive what so ever - if it breaks in a tight spot you'll be using just your rear wheels to get out of where ever you are...
95 wrangler with 88 4.2 carbed with puguetoe(?) 5spd both fresh rebuilds, spring over, 3inch body, spring arched 2 inches and stiffened, 10 inches of total lift on 36inch tsls 8k mile marker winch, ect.
1969 dodge charger rt se 440, 727 torqueflite 3.55 suregrip with 8 3/4 axle, everyone is making her a headache for me but i love her 1000xs more then my jeep
2005 dodge 3500 cummins 6speed dually work truck, not mine
The diff will only be as strong as those $1 stick welds...
If it breaks you will not have any front drive what so ever - if it breaks in a tight spot you'll be using just your rear wheels to get out of where ever you are...
8000lbs mile marker I only had to stick it once to be enough to buy one lol
But they would be the best sticks I could get, I'm still thinking about it a little,
IOPort, my buddy at the shop said it was gutted, I looked at it an there's nothing in it!
8000lbs mile marker I only had to stick it once to be enough to buy one lol
But they would be the best sticks I could get, I'm still thinking about it a little,
IOPort, my buddy at the shop said it was gutted, I looked at it an there's nothing in it!
Now to speak on the subject of welding your differential.
I don’t agree with it, condone it or recommend it and although I have known guys that have thought about it I never knew one to actually do it so I can’t tell you what to weld but I can help with the how and what with. I believe the rod of choice will be a nickel rod or at least a 300 series stainless steel. The nickel will be the easiest to weld with but they run a bit more than $1 each, you will just have to check your supplier. I am definitely going to suggest you do not weld this in place, take it out. It needs to be immaculately clean, mineral spirits and then carburetor or brake cleaner. Carburetor and brake cleaner are both toxic let them dry over night and weld in a very well ventilated area. Now we get to the tricky part, the pre heat. The best way to do this is to put it in an oven and let it soak at 400 degrees for 3 or 4 hours. Your mother would love you for that I’m sure. Perhaps you can find an old oven someone has thrown away, I don’t think the gas grill or a bonfire is going to do it.This is important and will mean the difference between success and failure. Remember you are only going to get one shot at this, if it fails it is going to destroy itself. Hopefully when it comes unputtogether it won’t take the axles and the housing with it I don’t have any idea what you will want to weld or in what sequence.
I can't wait to see how this turns out.:lpopcorn: I think I will need a large pop corn for this one.
I'd have to agree with IOport; I've heard of it a lot but never actually seen one welded. From what I've read lately, I think I'm going with aussie lockers when I get my collection of parts put back together.
67 cj5,225 Dauntless, D30,chrome molies, detroit, D44, full floating detroit, custom steering, disc all the way around,2 inch lift on 31s, armored up
70 cj6 4 inch lift
I have a great idea.
You say you are broke.
OK save all money and wheel that machine stock.
It may not be the most romantic idea, but I will Promise you something. You will become the best wheeler in your group.
A lot of us started wheeling before the locker craze, we could only wish to be able to afford a Limited slip in the rear. We went out and learned how to do it with what we were given by the factory. Spring overs were a way to get around buying springs, We learned howw to read a trail, we learned about tire placement and traction.
I see so many newer guys who could not put their front passenger tire within 12 inches of a spot, why? They do not need to, it is so easy to let throwing money at the Jeep do what others can do with skill and knowledge.
Let us just call it wheeling 101
I went through it and I seem to get places faster than a lot of the younger guys with with less damage and more control. I also run smaller tires and they tease me a bit, till we get to a place you need finesse.
We have a famous hill climb around here on one of our trails, it is actually about 6 hill climbs all tied together and is a real pucker job going up. low gears and a steady foot as you are at angle and doing rocks, it is a blast. I love to go down it on a busy Saturday just to freak out the newbies. Oh and while they are trying it in TJs and JKs I love to do it in one of my early CJ5s.
skill and knowledge will overcome every time.
Go ahead, a few years of learning will get you a lot further down the trails than breaking every cheap mod you can think up and breaking down on trail only to get someone to pull you out. We all know that guy who breaks down every run, and yes we talk behind his back.
95 wrangler with 88 4.2 carbed with puguetoe(?) 5spd both fresh rebuilds, spring over, 3inch body, spring arched 2 inches and stiffened, 10 inches of total lift on 36inch tsls 8k mile marker winch, ect.
1969 dodge charger rt se 440, 727 torqueflite 3.55 suregrip with 8 3/4 axle, everyone is making her a headache for me but i love her 1000xs more then my jeep
2005 dodge 3500 cummins 6speed dually work truck, not mine
Lucky me, they can't talk they dont have trail rigs lol
I can go far stock I have for over a year, I'm not saying I'm really good, I'd classify myself as decent if that lol
Im going to wait, if I have problems I'll revisit the idea, I'm main concerned about the vibrations on the road, and the welding would be done at my buddy's shop so it wouldnt break on me
Thanks again, yall are great.
Oh yeah my buddy was driving his jeep today raceing it on the street (cheerokee with a few engine upgrades) I6 he snapped his crank pulley off when it shifted to second, he heard "snap, ding ding ding" look back and saw his counter wieght smash the guys bumper he was racing, drove it 5 miles to his freind house popped the hood and realized his pulley wasnt there. Still ran fine, amazing what these motor can do!
Just thought I'd share
Lucky me, they can't talk they dont have trail rigs lol
I can go far stock I have for over a year, I'm not saying I'm really good, I'd classify myself as decent if that lol
Im going to wait, if I have problems I'll revisit the idea, I'm main concerned about the vibrations on the road, and the welding would be done at my buddy's shop so it wouldnt break on me
Thanks again, yall are great.
Oh yeah my buddy was driving his jeep today raceing it on the street (cheerokee with a few engine upgrades) I6 he snapped his crank pulley off when it shifted to second, he heard "snap, ding ding ding" look back and saw his counter wieght smash the guys bumper he was racing, drove it 5 miles to his freind house popped the hood and realized his pulley wasnt there. Still ran fine, amazing what these motor can do!
Just thought I'd share
67 cj5,225 Dauntless, D30,chrome molies, detroit, D44, full floating detroit, custom steering, disc all the way around,2 inch lift on 31s, armored up
70 cj6 4 inch lift
95 wrangler with 88 4.2 carbed with puguetoe(?) 5spd both fresh rebuilds, spring over, 3inch body, spring arched 2 inches and stiffened, 10 inches of total lift on 36inch tsls 8k mile marker winch, ect.
1969 dodge charger rt se 440, 727 torqueflite 3.55 suregrip with 8 3/4 axle, everyone is making her a headache for me but i love her 1000xs more then my jeep
2005 dodge 3500 cummins 6speed dually work truck, not mine
95 wrangler with 88 4.2 carbed with puguetoe(?) 5spd both fresh rebuilds, spring over, 3inch body, spring arched 2 inches and stiffened, 10 inches of total lift on 36inch tsls 8k mile marker winch, ect.
1969 dodge charger rt se 440, 727 torqueflite 3.55 suregrip with 8 3/4 axle, everyone is making her a headache for me but i love her 1000xs more then my jeep
2005 dodge 3500 cummins 6speed dually work truck, not mine
I'm going for it, I pulled the front axle gears and they should be welded shut tommarrow, if it doesnt work I wasted $50
For some reason my front axles leaks ALOT, it had mud and alot of water in it, the gears were starting to rust, I think its the pass. side axle seal, I have a sleeve on the axle but the seal is a problem, any ideas?
I have a great idea.
You say you are broke.
OK save all money and wheel that machine stock.
It may not be the most romantic idea, but I will Promise you something. You will become the best wheeler in your group.
A lot of us started wheeling before the locker craze, we could only wish to be able to afford a Limited slip in the rear. We went out and learned how to do it with what we were given by the factory. Spring overs were a way to get around buying springs, We learned howw to read a trail, we learned about tire placement and traction.
I see so many newer guys who could not put their front passenger tire within 12 inches of a spot, why? They do not need to, it is so easy to let throwing money at the Jeep do what others can do with skill and knowledge.
Let us just call it wheeling 101
I went through it and I seem to get places faster than a lot of the younger guys with with less damage and more control. I also run smaller tires and they tease me a bit, till we get to a place you need finesse.
We have a famous hill climb around here on one of our trails, it is actually about 6 hill climbs all tied together and is a real pucker job going up. low gears and a steady foot as you are at angle and doing rocks, it is a blast. I love to go down it on a busy Saturday just to freak out the newbies. Oh and while they are trying it in TJs and JKs I love to do it in one of my early CJ5s.
skill and knowledge will overcome every time.
Go ahead, a few years of learning will get you a lot further down the trails than breaking every cheap mod you can think up and breaking down on trail only to get someone to pull you out. We all know that guy who breaks down every run, and yes we talk behind his back.
I'm going for it, I pulled the front axle gears and they should be welded shut tommarrow, if it doesnt work I wasted $50
For some reason my front axles leaks ALOT, it had mud and alot of water in it, the gears were starting to rust, I think its the pass. side axle seal, I have a sleeve on the axle but the seal is a problem, any ideas?
83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
