U joint rules

[steel]

What's your guys op on these?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Who made them?
LG

 

[steel]

They are a NAPA brand ujoint. I was more concerned on the lubrication side of them. They doing have a zerk, looks like a ball detent.

 

[Hedgehog]

If they are any good it seems like a great solution to a rather messy problem. Looks like a needle grease fitting.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Yes to 'needle' fitting for grease'n.
You should be OK with those 'joints'.
Grease'em good AFTER the install.
Don't forget the slip splines-
LG

 

[73CJ]

Tom Woods ujoints have zerks in the end caps standard style zerks. I was worried they would get knocked off but not in seven years. I suspect the needle zero could be used if it ever became an issue

 

[coldair]

I can't believe no body's said this one rule for u joints always carry spares.

 

[51 CJ3]

I have never carried spare U-joints. I have driven home a couple of times with the rear drive shaft in the the back seat but I have never blown a U-joint on the trail either. Always at highway speed. This probably has to do with the speed at which it is operating and the heat build up do to corrosion and/or lack of grease. A joint will usually give warning quite a while before it fails in the form of a "ping". As far as that goes, I don't think my trail tool box even included tools I would want to use to change a U-joint.

Experience is a great resource but be careful what old mechanics believe. Sometimes we pick up a myth and lock onto it as gospel for life. Sometimes an issue was fixed long ago but we still hold that prejudice. It is common for a mechanic down the block with the same amount of experience to give you a different opinion. After all, we all have our preference in the Ford vs Chevy argument.

Jeff

 

[Petescj]

What's your guys op on these?

Thats what I just used on my Dana 30 axle U-joints. Napa brand. Be careful though , I got one made in Mexico and it was so out of spec I couldnt install it. I dont use a needle fitting to fill it. Mine is an old style tip that has a ball end matching the contour of that fitting.

 

[TeamRush]

I can't believe no body's said this one rule for u joints always carry spares.

Spare Stub Shaft with U Joint installed is ALWAYS a good idea.
It's small, it often gets mangled when the steering U Joint fails,
And it's REAL HANDY when you go to fix things...

Some guys carry extra front axles, drive shafts, ect.
I'm not sure I need all that stuff,
But I do carry a complete spindle with lock out attached.
It's the spare tire hanger, complete front lockout, wheel bearing hub, spindle, stub shaft and U Joint.

Since it all mounts on the spindle, and the spindle takes 6 bolts, it's easy to do, and fits either side.
The seals keep the extra set of wheel bearings/spindle bearings dry, and no matter what anyone breaks, you have spares that DO NOT take up room inside the vehicle.

As important as an extra U Joint is to have along,
Don't forget those straps/u bolts that keep the U Joint in place!
You almost NEVER break a U Joint without destroying the straps/U Bolts that hold it in place...

For you guys with bolts holding straps into place,
Use a Dremel Tool and cut a screwdriver slot into the end of the bolts that hold the straps in place.

When the bolt heads break off
(and anyone that has broken strap bolts knows what I'm talking about)
A pocket screwdriver from the other side of the yoke will unscrew what is left of the bolt in the yoke threads.
Since the pressure is off the bolt with the head missing, there is nothing holding that bolt shank in the threads, and the back out pretty easily.

The advertisement pocket screwdrivers are free, can be bent to reach right in there to turn that threaded bolt shank out.
Cheap and effective.

put some more grease down in the cups (about a quarter the way up) it helps to keep the pins upright when you put them in.

When servicing U Joints, or installing the first time,
The 'Half' a cap full of grease is a GREAT way to flush (Repack) the caps.

The U Joints come with a 'Green' grease most times,
This IS NOT a running grease, it's just a rust prevention.

Use a high quality wheel bearing grease,
Fill the cap about half full,
Press the cap onto the 'Arm' of the U Joint,
And the pressure will force all the old grease down,
Out into the bearings, and up where it exits the joint.

This is the QUICKEST repack you will ever do!
And you don't have to worry if the grease got EVERYWHERE in the bearings since hydraulic action is working for you.

-----------

LG is correct (Again!),
There simply is no substitute for Dana-Spicer U Joints.
Same for straps, U bolts that hold the U Joints in place...

I tried about every 'Store Brand' you can think of,
'Lifetime Warranty' means nothing when you break your joints 100 Yards apart in knee deep mud...

Yes, the store warrantied them,
Yes, they warrantied them the second time,
And the third time...

So I switched to a different 'Super Duper' store brand,
Same thing.
For YEARS I tried to save a few bucks, and use what was 'In Stock' so I didn't have to special order and wait,

Then I went back to Dana-Spicer and no issues other when when *I* do something stupid...

 

[Peanut Butter]

But I do carry a complete spindle with lock out attached.
It's the spare tire hanger, complete front lockout, wheel bearing hub, spindle, stub shaft and U Joint.

For you guys with bolts holding straps into place,
Use a Dremel Tool and cut a screwdriver slot into the end of the bolts that hold the straps in place.

When the bolt heads break off
(and anyone that has broken strap bolts knows what I'm talking about)
A pocket screwdriver from the other side of the yoke will unscrew what is left of the bolt in the yoke threads.
Since the pressure is off the bolt with the head missing, there is nothing holding that bolt shank in the threads, and the back out pretty easily.

That's a couple of really good ideas! Thanks TR.