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U-Joint Style Steering Coupler

U-Joint Style Steering Coupler
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Yep.
You have to have flex/movement in the system somewhere or else....
 
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Yes, that is what the shaft will look like, only the pin should be centered and a press fit; that pin looks loose and obviously has moved.

Don't know about your other shaft question.
 
Well, the coupler wouldn't work because of the round end of the OEM steering shaft. If I had cut off the round end down to the DD then it would have been extended too far. I wasn't able to locate a 1" round coupler to try.

I had ordered an Omix Steering shaft with U Joints on both ends ahead of time in anticipation of this and got it installed. After removing the old shaft, found the upper U Joint to have a slight play in it as well so I would have wanted to replace it anyways.
Tight steering now. Just a minor, 1/16-1/8" play which I think is either the column or the steering box but within enough of a tolerance for me.

Hope I never have to replace the steering box. PO welded the bracket to the frame. Too much fun cutting that thing off...

Amazon.com: Omix-Ada 18024.02 Power Steering Shaft: Automotive
 
Thanks for the update, I think you are glad that is done with for the time being anyway. Interesting issue with the steering box though.
 
So nice being able to change lanes on a highway around a curve and not feel like you are making a suicide attempt.

A scrambler and I formed a convoy this morning. I got a smile on my face as I watched him try to stay straight with the play in his steering.

With the notorious loose steering, I've always thought of CJs as being the first self-driving vehicles. It's the input of the destination information that is difficult.
 
Mine is a cheaper Omix-Ada Shaft. It installed easily once I had the steering column pulled back. I do have a tilting steering column. I believe it is OEM for mine since it's a Laredo version?

Not familiar with the '76 year or what steering column you're putting in and what the shaft type is. If it's GM, is there it's a good chance it's the same? The 1" DD is just the intermediary shaft that the U-joints connect to on mine. My column had a splined output shaft and was not 1"DD.

I'd say to count the splines and make sure they match up but unfortunately that gets confusing because of how the manufacturer/product description describes the count. The saginaw box input shaft counts only the splines used minus the flat tab part. The U-joint and drive-shaft manufacturers count the splines all the way around including where they normally would be for the flat tab part. I just had to trust the website I purchased from that it was the right product for my application and that the diameters were correct.

Sorry I can't be anymore help.
 

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