Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.
Brian, it (torque multiplier) would work. I have in my head a big turnbuckle; pretty easy to get here is the Gulf ship-building trades. I have more experience with 'em than I need, or want. Once I get one laid out along the length of the steering shaft, an idea will come to me about how best to attach to exert the force I want. It will be fun trying to make a tool out of parts that seemingly don't go together.
Re: Viewing the World - an AMC20 INNER SEAL question
I have this quote from a thread on another Jeep forum: quote Title: Re: Pulling hubs off axles
Post by scott on 08/26/09 at 23:42:29 jimjam, You can replace the inner seal without pulling the hub, & the inner seal is the important one. The inner keeps the gear lube in the rear end, the outer seal keeps the grease in between the outer seal & inner seal. Since grease is thick, there seems to be less problem with it leaking past the outer seal. Once you have the axle- hub- backing plate assembly pulled, the seal will pop right out. Pop a new one in & you're good to go, after packing the wheel bearings with grease. Now, if when you pull the axles the bearings or races look bad, then the hubs do have to come off & the bearings replaced, along with the outer seal. That's why I say to take the nut off before disassembling everything: just in case the bearings are bad & it all has to come apart. I've been lucky I guess & have had nice bearings when I've taken things apart this way.
If the axles are stubborn coming out of the housing, do this: Put the brake drum on backwards, & thread the lug nuts on a few turns. Slide the drum out , using it to bang against the lug nuts. This is a poor man's slide hammer, & will usually pop a stubborn axle out.
Be sure to check the axle end play per the service manual before you take it apart. Keep track of any shims on the left axle when it comes apart. Check the end play when it goes back together too. The only time I had a leaker was when I had the end play way off. once it was set correctly, the leaking stopped.
end quote
If the quote is accurate, I conclude that the a leak between backing plate and hub assembly (see photo) is a leaking inner seal. Further, I can replace the inner seal W/O pulling the hub by taking out the entire axle assembly.
I'm going to look up the exploded views in the shop manual, but perhaps someone has already dealt with this and can answer my question: There HAS to be a gasket between the backing plate and the hub assembly. What I am reading is that I MUST pull the hub, removing bearings and seals, to replace the gasket between the hub plate and the brake backing plate, the one I think HAS to be there.
Any takers? The reason I am not going immediately to one-piece axles is that, down the road, and close, I intend to replace the entire AMC20 with something that has discs on the rear.
I know you all realize how much trouble American Motors unloaded onto thousands of Jeep owners just to shorten their assembly line a couple steps so they could make more money. I like free enterprise, but not when the pursuit of profit violates good mechanical sense.
83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
You must register or login to view hidden content on this page.
Yes that is the inner seal leaking (out of the bottom weap hole)
I have never seen a gasket in there, just wipe a thin layer of rtv and your good to go.
I've gotten good advice, a lotta help, from posts on this topic. Now I have enough data to do something with.
When I pulled the leaking-side axle today (not with this whimpy puller)
I found what I consider a "train wreck"
It looks like an axle rebuild to me. So if I gotta go there (I DO!), then the only thing that makes sense is one-piece.
By the time the new axles arrive (UPS is gonna hate me), I'll have the brake parts cleaned and the backing plates fully populated with brake parts.
Thanks again for humoring my obstinacy, and for pointing out the glaringly obvious.
83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
The shinny spot on the axle is where the seal rides (I think from the pic) if it is still smooth it will be ok.
Do NOT put any parts on the backing plate as it gets shandwiched in between the axle flange and the bearing on the one piece axles. Its a lot easier to press everything together that way.
Update on the attached PDF:
I just got off the phone with Superior Axle & Gear concerning the measurements in Chart A in the install guide. I could not match the axle side lengths of my 1980 CJ7AMC20 rear axle with the numbers for kit EV20E.
Superior tech support (BTW, we started out speaking English, and finished the conversation that way) confirmed that the Length B, PAX side, for EV20E has a MISPRINT.
There was a "3" inserted instead of the correct "2", making the Length B, Passenger side, measurement 24 3/4 inches. The EV20E kit is correct for my 1980 CJ-7 AMC 20 rear axle; this is called the "narrow spread" or "narrow" axle.
Don't want to lead anyone astray, even by accident.
DHugg
Register now
You must register or login to view hidden content on this page.