Warn Hubs, pay attention to this forum

[Hedgehog]

A few months ago I replace my worn out Super Hubs with a set of Warn Deluxe Hubs. When they were replaced there were a few threads running about hubs with plenty of warning about the Warn Hubs coming loose. If ignored they will break the drive casting. When installed I paid attention to cleaning everything up and torqueing the bolts to spec's. Naturally I used the lock washers that came with the bolts.

This week end was the second time wheeling and I was surprised to see that I lost one of the bolts. WHAT! The hubs only have 350 miles on them. Naturally I hit the bolts again with a wrench and it was no surprise to see ALL of them were loose.

With the warnings I expected the bolts to loosen, but not this quickly! There must be something that can be done to extend the need to tighten the bolts. In one thread or another its been written that lock tight doesn't work, Scout locking tabs don't work, even changing the bolts to studs doesn't work. Well something MUST work, any other ideas would be appreciated.

 

[Barry2]

When I originally installed my warn hubs I used grade 8 bolts and the lock washers and put the red loc-tite on them and torqed them very tight, so far in six hundred miles or so......so far so good. If that don't work I'll drill holes in the bolt heads and use aircraft safety wire.

 

[mstar]

Hedgehog, I am using stainless steel allen head bolts with hi-collar
stainless steel lock washers and have not had any problem with bolts coming loose. This has been over a 7-8 year span of hiway and off road use. mike

 

[Purple77CJ7]

I ended up changing out the bolts and went with studs and lock nuts. Now everything stays tight. I had read about the use of studs in JP magazine a few years back. It works. If I remember right I think I got them as a kit from Warn.

 

[IOPort51]

You are saying that the scout washers with the bend over tab did not work for you.

 

[Hedgehog]

IO - No, going from what's written here and other places, along with word of mouth from another Jeeper I know. You'd think the bend over tabs would get the job done, they do in many other applications.

I like the responces so far. I like the idea of changing over to studs. Less wear on the drive hub.

Please make no mistake, I really like my Warn hubs. They always worked in the past and I'm sure, once I've figured out how to lock the bolts down, these will be just as good.

 

[Peanut Butter]

Does this only apply to Warn Hubs? Is the same true for Mile Marker, etc? Rod

 

[Hedgehog]

First off I have to say this. The title to this thread is agressive sounding. My meaning was supposed to be that the advice on this forum is valuable. Good advice on the internet can be hard to come by.

When researching hubs this problem seemed to exist with several different hub manufacturers, I can't remember who, but it wasn't Limited to Warn. But since the hubs I got were Warn I paid extra attention to the advice given about those.

 

[IrishCJ6]

I had similar issues to you Hedgehog, I lost a number of bolts and only from doing a check I noticed it. I replaced all my bolts with Grade 8 bolts, cleaning the threads, and used locktite red and locking washers. So far I haven't had a problem since.

 

[Torxhead]

Hedgehog, I think one thing that might cause your problem is excessive power. I have seem similar problems caused by having a locker up front. By now the threads in the drive flange are pretty worn out by now. Getting rid of the locking hubs was an improvement from my point of view. On the Rubicon trail I broke 4 of those 3/8" bolts on one side. It was repaired by a fellow jeepers left handed drill setup and some spare bolts.

 

[Hedgehog]

Power, I never considered that. I suppose it could be possible. While the Jeep only has about 400 miles on it since the hubs change, actually only two days out, but those two days were with the front engaged, about 14 hours in all. I didn't use a lot of power, but there was on steep rocky stretch that made me get out to relax the ol' .... aahhhhh how to put this .... butt muscles. A very tense 15 or so minutes for me, but the CJ didn't seem to think it was a big deal at all.

Sorry, but the hubs will stay. To many miles to go before I rest the Jeep on a trailer.

IrishCJ6 - I thought those bolts WERE grade 8, maybe not though, honestly I never checked.

 

[Old Dog]

Does this only apply to Warn Hubs? Is the same true for Mile Marker, etc? Rod

I think it applies to all the lock outs. I had the same problem with my super winch hubs. Using studs with lock tight in the hubs solved my issues.

 

[Torxhead]

I guess the stud has a stronger shear strength over the threaded surface of a bolt. From what I hear the constant on and off load from the soft cast metal drive hub against the locking hubs is increased by lockers and V8s and will cause those 3/8" bolts to loosen up and shear off at the drive hub level. The objective is making sure the bolts or studs are kept tight. My $.02
And about those Warn Locking Hubs, if you bust up one of those pretty chrome caps, they cannot be replaced individually. Not that I know of anyway.

 

[Only in a Jeep CJ]

The shoulder section of the stud is thicker than a threaded section of a regular bolt. This is the very section where the shear load is placed. Also, on a bolt, the head twist while stretching the shaft in a twist as well ,the stud will stretch strait with only the nut twisting. This makes for a stronger fastener. Think wheel studs/lug nuts. I use red lock tight as well.

 

[Petescj]

I think it applies to all the lock outs. I had the same problem with my super winch hubs. Using studs with lock tight in the hubs solved my issues.

I just had this happen on the stock hubs on Vickis Laredo . I was in 4wd alot this winter due to all the snow. I noticed one missing when I was in the parking lot at work. All of them were loose but only 1 was gone.

 

[Hedgehog]

Darn Dude, we must be leading more or less a parallel existance.

I talked with Rob at Willys Works about this. He said that the bent tabs were a waste of money, they simply don't work. He does likes changing the bolts for grade 8's, clean completely and lock tite. He is greatly in favor of using studs rather than bolts for the very reasond listed above.

 

[Petescj]

Darn Dude, we must be leading more or less a parallel existance.

Here it is. Note the shiny new bolt at the bottom right. Hopefully one of us runs into a large sum of money soon. I blew through my savings getting the dog and taking some needed time off.

 

[Hedgehog]

My sister and I have whats left of family property up in New York that is selling, the lawyers have the paper work as we speak. Property sells for far less up there than it doesn out here. $800 an acre feels like they are stealing it from us, but that's the going rate up there. The savings account has seen so much money leave and never come back lately, it is in desperate need of a repopulation.

 

[mstar]

A word of caution on installing studs.The stud is used for better clamping force rather than increasing sheer strength.None the less when installing the nuts I would fellow recommended torque for a 3/8" -24 nut.
My concern is that excessive force could distort the aluminum body on the hub. Other than having to look at them they should be your best option.
mike

 

[Fastatv]

I think it applies to all the lock outs. I had the same problem with my super winch hubs. Using studs with lock tight in the hubs solved my issues.

I'm with Old Dog. My Mile Markers do the same as well. I just check my mine now and then.