What did you do to or with your CJ today?

[Petescj]

here, you want a CJ, not a TJ
View attachment 76356

Love this.

 

[TSB8C]

Had a great Saturday working on the Jeep. Have been wanting a gas and water can mount and finally pulled the trigger. I made a homemade rear bumper and tire carrier when I first got the Jeep a few years ago. Now I added some Rotopak cans/mounts to it - one red for gas and one white for water. Pretty easy actually. I bought the cans in a 2-pak from Amazon that had one of each in the box together. I then ordered a 2-pack of the mounts to go with them. Cut some scrap I had laying around to make the brackets, welded them to my tire carrier, and bolted up the Rotopak mounts. The cans then clamp into the mounts and put the spare tire back on. Now I can swing out the tire carrier to access the cans, no need to remove the tire at all. And when it's all closed up, the cans are almost invisible, just barely peeking out lower left and right of the spare tire.

 

[Belizean]

Good location on the jack also

 

[TSB8C]

Good location on the jack also

Thanks. Out of the way but easy to get. I don't like those hood hinge mounts or the ones where it stands up vertically.

 

[Belizean]

Thanks. Out of the way but easy to get. I don't like those hood hinge mounts or the ones where it stands up vertically.

Yeah I don’t like those locations either. Especially the hood. You could get rusty water on your hood pretty quickly. So the jack mount is just some L channel piece ?

 

[TSB8C]

Yeah I don’t like those locations either. Especially the hood. You could get rusty water on your hood pretty quickly. So the jack mount is just some L channel piece ?

Yes. When I built the bumper upright part, it is a hollow 2" square tubing (like a hitch receiver tube). I then drilled and tapped a hole into the side of it about 1.5" down for a set screw. The jack mount is then a piece of a 2" hitch (fits into the upright piece) welded to an L channel like a "tee". So now the square tubing part can insert down into the upright of the tire carrier and I can lock the set screw to keep the height I want. A few holes in the side of the L channel to line up with holes in the jack, some rubber washers (from a toilet install kit) between the L channel and the jack, some regular washers and wing nuts to hold the jack on, and there you have it: a no-rattle, adjustable height jack mount behind (or in front of, depending on your perspective) the spare tire.

 

[Belizean]

Nice. I have pretty much that same 2 in tube on a Warn bumper/tire carrier. Thinking of getting maybe a basket of some type made to carry 5 or 10 gallons of water for long trips. Maybe a carrier for a jack on some trips. Wish I was a welder.

 

[Patrick]

And I wish I had all that workspace. Very nice field add-ons.

 

[TSB8C]

And I wish I had all that workspace. Very nice field add-ons.

Some men have a box of tools, and some men have to build another building to hold all their tools. Nothing like a separate shop building and a collection of more tools than a Home Depot built up over the years.

 

[Grumpa]

Well, I did this today. Just put them on to make sure they work and they do. It had some old locking hubs on it but they stuck out too far. This is much better. I'll take 'em off later and bead blast them then paint them black. I also need to get gaskets for them as all I had was some of that form a gasket stuff.

 

[Patrick]

Is that a rear full floater…

 

[j6824]

Carved out the front crossmember...grille mount hole was wallowed via rust

Hit it with rust reformer when I did the M.O.R.E. 1" pucks a couple years ago...was probably already too far gone

Got a TDK replacement on the way

For those who may not be familiar, they've got everything from members and tub mounts to replacement frame rails and entire frames

Worth a look if you're in need: https://throttledownkustoms.com/c-1402114-frames-cj.html

 

[Grumpa]

Is that a rear full floater…

If you're talking about my drive flanges, no. That's the front hub. Took off the locking hubs and put the original style drive flanges on.

 

[Patrick]

My Willys has a similar setup in the rear axle, and I was thinking of doing the opposite of what you are doing with manual hubs. That would be just for kicks. But if you have narrow wheels, then the hubs can stick out past the rim edge. Not too sightly or good.

 

[duffer]

My Willys has a similar setup in the rear axle, and I was thinking of doing the opposite of what you are doing with manual hubs. That would be just for kicks. But if you have narrow wheels, then the hubs can stick out past the rim edge. Not too sightly or good.

There is certainly some advantage to locking hubs on a rear full float for flat towing but I don't think ANY of the external type hubs are as strong as the drive flanges. Best solution?

 

[Patrick]

I agree, and am well aware that manual locking hubs are weak especially in the rear. They won’t hold up to my V8. But look at those Wilwoods, man. It’s money well spent. Got them myself in the front axle. Superb performance.

 

[Patrick]

Wait a minute, those are one piece axles. Definitely the solution.

 

[Patrick]

Took time to inspect suspension components. My rear leaf springs are bent. Thought I could get away without a torque bar but I don’t like those clearance robbing, extra weight obstructive things.

And now for my doggone throwout bearing. It’s shot.

 

[NP435]

went to the forest, explored new roads, 145 jeep miles. Flexed the suspension, got reminded how my tractor seats suck Great day!

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Sold my m38 just waiting for it to be picked up

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