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-Clocked the Transfer Case up another hole in the adapter ring. Looks better and sits about level with the bottom of the Transmission now. The mount for the shifters fits tight against the Transmission now too. There’s a little pocket there in the passenger side of the NP435 that looks like it’s made for that. View attachment 103467
-I’m leaning towards bending just the inboard shifter a bit outward. Overall, they look pretty good. View attachment 103468
Nice! With my AX15 conversion I had to clock it to the lowest position to clear the Transmission . This also gave the front drive shaft more clearance from the bell housing. I did have to trim the tub floor so the shifters would fit. Great build
-Had a little time this evening to work on my cross pan/skid plate/tran mount issue.
I decided that to be most-efficient, I’d re-use the steel plate. So, I cut out the section of plate as square as possible. The section removed was the minimum to clear the NP435 Transmission ’s drooping belly. My plan was to just flip this cutout section and re-use it.
-I flipped the piece, rotating it so the belly was down, instead of up. It actually fit fairly well when welding back in place. Afterwards, I notched out the front of it to clear the Transmission , but no big deal.
I think it worked out great!
-Looks like they pressed it in Toledo.
-Next, I’ll get rid of that 2” drop (rock catcher) for the dipping Transfer Case , which I no longer have, in this same steel piece. Plan is to re-use steel again and cut accordingly.
-Worked on eliminating that 2” droop in the cross pan/skid plate. Cutting/hammering/welding/grinding did the trick. Looks pretty good.
Before…
After…
-Cut new holes for shifters in the new tunnel cover panel. Much different location now for the Transmission shifter. Still have to get a new boot too, since original one isn’t near wide or tall enough. Also, heated up the inboard Transfer Case shifter right at the bend and bent it a tad outboard. Hopefully it clears the Transmission shifter when in reverse. I’ll see later.
Mar 31, 25:
-Got everything buttoned up. Only had to drill one new hole in the cross pan/skid plate for the new location for the Transmission mount.
Kept the same spacing from center of output shaft to skid plate in order to maintain the same driveshaft angle at the rear. Reused the rubber mount and the original steel channel and a 1/8” steel plate spacer. I chopped the channel though, since I didn’t go the torque arm route again.
-Used some heat at the lower bend of the gear shifter, while in the vice, to bend the stick a bit inwards. In a much better position now. Reinstalled shifter with new spring, cap and small rubber boot. Should get the new, larger, upper boot in a day or so.
-It quit raining/sleeting/snowing in the afternoon. I was really itching to take it for a test drive. Got all ready and bundled up but the battery was dead. Perfect!
After a bit of charging she fired right up and creeped out the garage door. Good oil pressure indicated from new pump.
New clutch seemed perfect. No throwout bearing noise, just a nice hissss when engaging. Transmission sounded fine and after babying it a few blocks, I went up through the gears with no issues. Very happy it went ok.
Everything ok on test drive, except the tachometer. Have to give her a knuckle tap to wake it up.
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
Nice work. Those JB twin sticks are great. Only thing I disliked was their boot. I used a Stronghold shift boot and that worked great and dressed it up.
Thanks Belizean. Not very often that we don't encounter a problem or two with this many new/changed things. I'm knocking on wood now, but I'm sure an adjustment or two is coming.
The Strongwell Boots are nice how they combine the 3 shifters under 1 bezel. However, I'm doubting it'd work in this application because of how far forward the NP435 shifter is, compared to the OEM T-176 .
Maybe you could do me a favor and measure your boot from top to bottom?
-Now, it's time for an emissions test before I can re-register the Jeep's tags. This is getting really old having to do this test, which is required every 2 years in the County I live in here in CO. I pleaded with the DMV lady the other day, saying I only put about 200 miles a year on the Jeep, so my Jeep's yearly emissions are probably less than my lawn mower. No luck with an exemption, except that if I buy "Collectors" plates, I only have to do emissions tests every 5 years. Will think about that option.
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
On the right side it’s just over 8 inches. On the left side, that side goes a little more forward and measured in the middle between gear shift and twin sticks it’s more like 10 inches. I would call them. They make custom ones and I doubt you are the first request for that combo.
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
Thanks for measuring, Belizian. I think it's too short overall though. I'd have to go the custom route & I'll look at their website and see.
Otherwise, the new upper boot for the Transmission is supposed to arrive today and I'll test fit it to see what it looks like. It's likely that I'll have to overlap the boots at their mounting flanges because of how close they'll be together. We'll see tonight.
