Build Thread 3rd time down the rabbit hole...

[Project86]

Pulling the axles wasn't too bad since I cheated. I removed the four bolts from the brake backing plate and pulled the whole enchilada at once. I used special tool BR549 to drive in the seal and spacer. Of course I needed to make a trip to the machine shop to get the bearings pressed on. Got the order of parts on the axle right. Slipped 'em right in without problem.

 

[Project86]

Here's a big tip time saver for anyone doing a narrow track axle disc brake conversion. IF you have wheel spacers I'd lay money that you'll need longer wheel studs. I dropped the ball on that one and spent most of my day chasing down longer studs, removing the short ones off the new Moser axle, then installing the new one. Joy.

But wait, while I'm telling off on myself. Here's tip 2; make sure that when you are in the disassembling process you finish at a obvious stopping point. Somewhere down the line, I didn't remove the old axle seal on the right side. So when I slid the axle in there was a oh Sugar Honey Ice Tea moment because it was a tad bit long. Closer inspection revealed I was a DAzz and left the old seal in. I got lucky (this time) and was able to remove both seals at one time and didn't damage the new. Not one of my better moments.

Disc brake dissertation up coming after a test drive tomorrow.

 

[Project86]

Look at how much thread was showing on the lug nut once I put the spacer on. After I replaced the studs now look. Mucho better. Forgot to get a picture with the scale and new studs. Spacer is already on, so I ain't going back and taking 'em off to get a picture. You'll have to use your imagination.

 

[cglax6]

Did you go with the TSM or SSBC kit?

I recently put on the TSM kit and didn't have too much of a problem. No real gripes on the kit with the exception of the rotors. You can't get them anywhere besides them...they're made just for them and they drill the lug holes there. They're a smaller operation, but really nice folks. I spoke with the owner when I ordered my kit and he said his stepson will be taking over, so I shouldn't have to worry about not finding new rotors in the future.

 

[Project86]

Did you go with the TSM or SSBC kit?

I recently put on the TSM kit and didn't have too much of a problem. No real gripes on the kit with the exception of the rotors. You can't get them anywhere besides them...they're made just for them and they drill the lug holes there. They're a smaller operation, but really nice folks. I spoke with the owner when I ordered my kit and he said his stepson will be taking over, so I shouldn't have to worry about not finding new rotors in the future.

TSM. My spidey sense was buzzing on SSB. Agree on the install, it was mostly straight forward. No real issues to speak of, the biggest thing to happen was I came home with metric thread brake lines from the LAPS. Went right back and swapped 'em out for standard threads.

 

[cglax6]

No real issues to speak of, the biggest thing to happen was I came home with metric thread brake lines from the LAPS. Went right back and swapped 'em out for standard threads.

Always something!

Sent via Google translate using braille through Tapatalk

 

[Project86]

Pict of the left side finished assembly. Couple of views of my placement of the new proportion valve. I attached it to the bottom of the floorplan where the rear seat steps down to where your feet go. I didn't want it inside and near the master cylinder wasn't really an option either. Once it is set most likely it will never be needed again.

 

[Project86]

On the disc brake upgrade, for better or worse, this is my set up. The line from the small side of the master cylinder I disconnected from the OEM prop valve. Removed the brake line to the back brakes from the OEM prop valve. I connected those two together and plugged off the holes in the prop valve. I put my new prop valve between the hard line and rubber line(to the axle housing). Bent new a long line over the diff to the left side and bent a short line to the right side. TSM provides a short braid line to the caliper to connect to. Welded on brake line supports to the axle. That was it.

After a few test runs today I screwed the prop valve all the way down then came back out about 5 turns or so. It seems OK for today, I'll try it like this for a bit if I like it then it's set. If not, I'll make another adjustment and try that.

 

[gert]

The factory Jeep prop valve has brake failure switch on the top center of the prop valve and it’s job is to light the idiot light when either the front or back brakes loose pressure..... so with you no longer going through the factory prop valve for the rear brakes that warning light will be on constantly if it works, it is actuated by the rod in the center of the prop valve, when you press the brakes and one side fails it moves toward that side completing the ground for the brake failure light bulb. FYI. Just Incase you are not aware of it

 

[Project86]

The factory Jeep prop valve has brake failure switch on the top center of the prop valve and it’s job is to light the idiot light when either the front or back brakes loose pressure..... so with you no longer going through the factory prop valve for the rear brakes that warning light will be on constantly if it works, it is actuated by the rod in the center of the prop valve, when you press the brakes and one side fails it moves toward that side completing the ground for the brake failure light bulb. FYI. Just Incase you are not aware of it

That is certainly good info to know. Evidently, my brake light is not in the working condition. It's hooked up and all, but we know that don't shinola. For now, I'm gonna leave everything as is. I may revisit the prop valve again once I'm done with the rest of the list. Your expertise is appreciated.

 

[Project86]

free if anyone wants 'em, just pay shipping.
brake parts/pieces
2 pc axle
original vapor cannister

 

[Project86]

dash work has commenced....BWHAHAHAHA

 

[Project86]

Ya'll know the deal, pay the shipping and it's yours. I can post better pix if anyone needs 'em. Dash pad needs some metal work on the back. It has a couple of mediumish cracks on the top, but work for a while.

 

[yleefox]

You're making good progress, keep it up.

 

[Project86]

we've arrived at the point of no return....

 

[Project86]

check out the hoodlift. dissertation to follow on the pitfalls of the install. at the end of the day I was pleased with the install.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KKVkGYD8SQ

 

[Project86]

So here's what I ran into with the hood lift kit from Rugged Ridge. The package provided a Ubolt to bolt around the existing radiator support to the pneumatic shock. In their piece the holes were to small for the Ubolt. So I made my own. Second, thing is the shock are super stiff since they are new. Closing the hood made the radiator supports look as if they were made of rubber. They both had a bend but not break appearance. As the hood closed the radiator supports would come back to the standard position. Anywho, I made a pair of supports that used the Ubolt piece down to the inside of the fender well. The end result was worth it.

 

[Project86]

At this point on the dash, the only info I will share is I'll be using a Kenwood unit for my music.

 

[Belizean]

Thanks for the RR hood support report. I had been thinking about one, but I think now I just really don't need it. I look forward to the Kenwood report. I've had the same cheapo radio for 35 years and need something new. The plastic knobs have been gone 15-20 years

 

[Project86]

for your viewing pleasure here comes a avalanche of dash pictures.