Build Thread 79 CJ7 "They’re coming to take me away aha"

[Lumpy Grits]

This entire thread should become a 'sticky' !
LG

 

[mriplaybass]

[FONT=&quot]I really like the idea of on board air. Do we need it? Probably not. What am I saying?!! Of course we need it! It’s useful, it’s cool, it’s something I have wanted since hearing about it, and I need something to drive me crazy![/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]A few weeks ago we made a trip to one of our favorite “blast from the past” salvage yards, and picked up a York 210 compressor. We paid $40 for the compressor, and 2 sets of mounting brackets along with the spray nozzle for the windshield washer.
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I thought that getting the factory brackets would make this addition to our build go smooth as silk. Silly me……….[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The first thing that I discovered was that the PO had adapted an alternator from who knows what to fit the AMC 304 . I have no idea where the mounting brackets came from, what I do know is that they would not be a direct bolt in as far as compatibility with the compressor brackets we had just purchased. I also discovered that the clutch pulley did not line up with any of the other pulleys. Apparently, the Jeeps used a double pulley, and I acquired a single pulley compressor. Oh well, time to make another adapter.[/FONT]






[FONT=&quot]The compressor had to be moved back about ¾ of an inch, so I made an adapter to facilitate this.[/FONT]









[FONT=&quot]This turned out to be one of the most difficult projects that we have undertaken for quite some time. Because the PO had altered the alternator brackets, had the wrong fan installed, and obviously had the wrong pulleys for this to be a direct bolt in, we spent way too much time trying to figure out just where shims were needed in order to not only make things line up, but also so as to not draw down the aluminum compressor bracket unevenly and crack it. I have never had to install then uninstall something so many times in all the years I have been working on cars and trucks. But persistence paid off. Eventually, the compressor took up residence under the hood along with most of the plumbing necessary to hopefully make this thing work.[/FONT]




[FONT=&quot]The extra tensioner pulley bracket came in handy. I was able to use it to securely mount the pressure switch, air filter, and check/unloader valve.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I drilled and tapped some flat stock to use as a jamb nut on either side of the brackets going to the pressure switch and the air filter to keep the whole assembly from rotating due to vibration.[/FONT]













[FONT=&quot]Hopefully the hard part is done. The air tank and plumbing to it along with an intake filter will be the next project.[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]
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[Peanut Butter]

Great job! You'll like the York Compressor.

 

[Petescj]

Another modification I must make. Looks great.

 

[Woolyworm]

Pete - you should consider CO2 as well. I went that way vs the compressor due to the amount of work involved, price, and the massive pressure and quick fills achievable with a tank. I got this one and it's been working great for me. $250 shipped an $30 to fill which does my (4) 33x12.5's from 10 to 25 psi about 10 times. Takes about 15 seconds to do that.

OP - Your compressor work looks great!

Wooly

 

[mriplaybass]

[FONT=&quot]With the humidity near 90% today, I soaked through everything that I was wearing from head to toe in about an hour, so it’s a better idea to stay inside and update our build thread. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]After “finishing the compressor” end of our OBA and temporarily hooking it up to a tank, we fired it up to see how well it would work…………..Not very! It did build pressure nicely, but the compressor cycled on and off every 2 seconds, even at an idle. So, back to the drawing board. I should have known better than to reduce the discharge side of the compressor down to match the 3/8” hose we plan to use so close to the compressor. I also just ran everything hard plumbed from compressor to the final outlet to the pressure tank without the use of a manifold. I guess experience is the best teacher! I corrected the problem by placing a manifold right at the compressor discharge line, and keeping everything ½” until after the check valve. I guess this is an addition for my thread “What stupid thing did you do with your CJ today” . [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I made the manifold by using a 6” piece of 2 x 3 x 3/16 tube and welding the ends closed. 3/16” on the front, and 1/4” on the back so that I could tap it to accept pipe thread. For the other fittings, I welded in pipe couplers.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]We decided to use a relay to energize the compressor clutch. I’m not sure if this was necessary, but I could not find out what kind of amperage the clutch draws, so for the few dollars the relay cost it was cheap protection.[/FONT]








[FONT=&quot]Putting the manifold at an angle gave me the ability to install a petcock, thereby allowing for an additional place for compressor oil that blows by, to be drained before reaching the filter, and pressure tank.[/FONT]



[FONT=&quot]I had problems finding a place to put a “store bought” pressure tank, so I had to make my own.[/FONT]









[FONT=&quot]Since the only place we could find to mount the air tank was on the top of the wheel house, the addition of an electric purge valve makes draining the air tank easy. Just flip a switch on the dash board. Since the drain hose from the purge valve comes out just ahead of the exhaust, my wife has suggested that we attach a whoopie cushion to the drain hose.
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]And you all thought that only the guys came up with goofy ideas!
[/FONT]







[FONT=&quot]The last thing that we have to do is get an air filter for the compressor. I was going to run a hose into the carburetor air cleaner, but I think a filter attached directly to the compressor inlet would be a whole lot easier.[/FONT]

 

[mtnwhlr]

Very nicely done

 

[007]

I'm pretty sure the bronco site you have has a part number for the intake air filter.


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[Lumpy Grits]

:rock:
YES-On use'n a relay for this setup.
Spray bottle of very soapy water will locate those leaks.
It's 16% RH here at 86*.
LG

 

[mriplaybass]

I'm pretty sure the bronco site you have has a part number for the intake air filter.


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Duffer posted all the part numbers in another thread I started so the part number is already in my files. I just don't know if it's worth fabricating one by hand for what they cost!

:rock:
YES-On use'n a relay for this setup.
Spray bottle of very soapy water will locate those leaks.
It's 16% RH here at 86*.
LG

16%??!! even I could take 86° at that kind of humidity.
I'm on my way out to the shop in spite of what I said, the wife kind of got me off my butt!

 

[Hedgehog]

I hate to be "that guy". Are you at all worried about knocking the gauge assembly off? I know if it were me it would only be a matter of time.

With your compressor cycling the way it was, I can't help but wonder, could your check valve be backwards?

Did you not have enough room in front of your fuel tank to mount the pressure tank?

87* @ 15%

 

[Lumpy Grits]

It's 13% @ 89* now.

LG

 

[mriplaybass]

I hate to be "that guy". Are you at all worried about knocking the gauge assembly off? I know if it were me it would only be a matter of time.

With your compressor cycling the way it was, I can't help but wonder, could your check valve be backwards?

Did you not have enough room in front of your fuel tank to mount the pressure tank?

87* @ 15%

Check valve is in correctly. In my opinion, the compressor just puts out too much air to be restricted down to a 3/8" line that close to the compressor. It would fill the fittings and filter faster than the air could flow all the way back to the tank, and the limit switch would kick out. Kind of like a water logged well pressure tank will do. As soon as I installed the manifold (roughly 24 cu,in.) and went to larger fittings, the cycling cut back to one time to fill the tank. I can live with that, I'm not going to run 1/2" hose all the way back to the pressure tank just to avoid one cycle of the compressor. The tank is about 2 1/4 gallons, and takes about 20 seconds to fill at an idle. That's good enough for us, and it keeps the oil blow by at a minimum.
No room in front of the fuel tank. Earlier in the thread I talked about the PO using a T-18 from a 1978 J series truck without short shafting it. So we still have the 5" spacer between the bell and tranny. With everything moved back 5", the drive shaft is probably shorter than a CJ5 . Too close for comfort when wheeling!
Time will tell if the location of the gauge is a bad decision!

 

[Lumpy Grits]

You can also close off the compressor's inlet some, to reduce the volume of incoming air.
93* @ 11%
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

I've been following this thread but somehow didn't notice the part about having a long T-18 . Could I get some advice from you? ....... My plan is to use only one air line going to the tank, I figure the line that fills the tank can supply air as well. Is there a flaw in the plan to use only on line? .... Just a thought, could your tank fit under the seat between the side and the frame rails?

 

[007]

I've been following this thread but somehow didn't notice the part about having a long T-18 . Could I get some advice from you? ....... My plan is to use only one air line going to the tank, I figure the line that fills the tank can supply air as well. Is there a flaw in the plan to use only on line? .... Just a thought, could your tank fit under the seat between the side and the frame rails?

I'm confused...


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[mriplaybass]

I've been following this thread but somehow didn't notice the part about having a long T-18 . Could I get some advice from you? ....... My plan is to use only one air line going to the tank, I figure the line that fills the tank can supply air as well. Is there a flaw in the plan to use only on line? .... Just a thought, could your tank fit under the seat between the side and the frame rails?

Not sure how you could use the same hose that supplies air to the tank as your work hose without disconnecting it to use it then reconnecting it to refill the tank, unless you are asking if you could just tee into the same line that supplies the tank with your work line. That would work, but you would get pulsating air from the compressor since the air tank is in essence only "floating" on the system instead of being the air reservoir. This is no problem for filling tires, but does weird things to air tools. I only have one hose going to the tank, then a separate one on the other side of the tank for filling tires, etc.
I considered mounting the tank between the frame rail and the outer body, but I have rubbed rocks with the thick diamond plate that currently serves as the rock sliders, and the tank would be below this level. At some point in the future I may rework, and use the bumper as the air tank. That will give us back a little more space inside the Jeep.

 

[Hedgehog]

Yeah, the manifold would act as a Tee in the line. I'm really attempting to reduce the number of air lines running around on the CJ. Then there is the other side of it, longer and larger air lines essentially makes for a bigger tank/air supply. ..... I just tested the threads on my drain, they are standard 1/4" NPT threads so the addition of a tee fitting with the drain and the air in would work. Air in what is essentially a surge tank with smooth air coming out.

 

[mriplaybass]

Yeah, the manifold would act as a Tee in the line. I'm really attempting to reduce the number of air lines running around on the CJ. Then there is the other side of it, longer and larger air lines essentially makes for a bigger tank/air supply. ..... I just tested the threads on my drain, they are standard 1/4" NPT threads so the addition of a tee fitting with the drain and the air in would work. Air in what is essentially a surge tank with smooth air coming out.

That should work. The manifold kind of acts like a water hammer preventer does in your household plumbing.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Take your 'working' air from the top of the tank, and leave the bottom as a drain.

LG