Build Thread 83 CJ7 its time to get it done
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Build Thread 83 CJ7 its time to get it done
- Thread starter gert
- Start date Start date:
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- 1983 cj7, 1971 Dart, 1942 Willys slat grill
Finally got off my butt and bled my brakes, i had to change the prop block as the original wouldn’t seal anymore
If my 8 year old had a longer attention span i probably could get all 4 to lock
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If my 8 year old had a longer attention span i probably could get all 4 to lock
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- 1983 cj7, 1971 Dart, 1942 Willys slat grill
On a side note, i dont recommend the Fitech retro fuel pump, its 10 pounds of
in a 5 pound sack, you cant tighten the three screws around the fuel fittings, you dont want to grind on the housing because the fuel fitting holes are drilled pretty deep, now on to plumbing the fuel system for the tow pigSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
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Armyvet25
Beach Runner
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- 06 TJ, 83 CJ7, 2012 JKU, 1995 YJ
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That's what she said[emoji1787]
[emoji1787][emoji1787]
Sorry, that was unavoidable
Lmao
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- Rockwall,TX
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- 1983 cj7, 1971 Dart, 1942 Willys slat grill
I want to write my experience down while it semi fresh in my noggin to help anyone else that does a Fitech install:
I bought the 30002 kit, it has ignition control, they have kits that dont control ignition so make sure you get the right kit
They dont have a first fire check list that i have found, some things that i find important werent explained well in their documentation
If your kit does timing control and you want to use it, you need a 2 wire electronic distributor i used my stock factory one, you will have to splice your connector tho as the kit comes ready to use an MSD distributor, you need to lock out your mechanical advance and vacuum advance in the distributor, i did it with a spot weld easy enough
If you go to use timing control you have to manually turn it on and its not labeled intuitively. On the hand held in the initial set up menu you have a “TACH” option or “2 Wire+Coil” option, for the non ignition control you would keep your whole stock ignition set up and hook the blue wire to negative side of coil so the computer sees rpm
For ignition control you toss everything except your coil, coil hot wire and locked out distributor and hook the black wire to negative side of coil and select “2 wire+coil” in start up menu
If you run a dead head fuel system your fuel inlet is passenger side, if you run a return system your fuel inlet is drivers side, it dosent work swapped i tried that
Also make sure you go through your initial set up and save each change as you make it, they have the AFR set fat a hi RPM limit
Also the battery power wants to be on the battery, to much voltage drop if its on starter relay
Theres no ground wire with this system…… strange but one of the tbi mounting screws is not painted so use that as a ground location and add a ground to your engine it wants it
Im just glad i wasnt trying to break in a cam with this install
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I bought the 30002 kit, it has ignition control, they have kits that dont control ignition so make sure you get the right kit
They dont have a first fire check list that i have found, some things that i find important werent explained well in their documentation
If your kit does timing control and you want to use it, you need a 2 wire electronic distributor i used my stock factory one, you will have to splice your connector tho as the kit comes ready to use an MSD distributor, you need to lock out your mechanical advance and vacuum advance in the distributor, i did it with a spot weld easy enough
If you go to use timing control you have to manually turn it on and its not labeled intuitively. On the hand held in the initial set up menu you have a “TACH” option or “2 Wire+Coil” option, for the non ignition control you would keep your whole stock ignition set up and hook the blue wire to negative side of coil so the computer sees rpm
For ignition control you toss everything except your coil, coil hot wire and locked out distributor and hook the black wire to negative side of coil and select “2 wire+coil” in start up menu
If you run a dead head fuel system your fuel inlet is passenger side, if you run a return system your fuel inlet is drivers side, it dosent work swapped i tried that
Also make sure you go through your initial set up and save each change as you make it, they have the AFR set fat a hi RPM limit
Also the battery power wants to be on the battery, to much voltage drop if its on starter relay
Theres no ground wire with this system…… strange but one of the tbi mounting screws is not painted so use that as a ground location and add a ground to your engine it wants it
Im just glad i wasnt trying to break in a cam with this install
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Posts
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- Featured
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- 278
- Location
- Rockwall,TX
- Vehicle(s)
- 1983 cj7, 1971 Dart, 1942 Willys slat grill
Also dont buy their fuel pump kit, just buy a 4.0 pump and retro fit it to your CJ sending unit
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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- 84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
The Sniper and Sniper fuel pump also requires being connected to the battery.
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- 1983 cj7, 1971 Dart, 1942 Willys slat grill
Well this is getting interesting and expensive fast……
Summit Racing is awesome by the way
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Summit Racing is awesome by the way
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coldair
Full Time Jeeper
Its just money.Well this is getting interesting and expensive fast……
Summit Racing is awesome by the way
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- Rockwall,TX
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- 1983 cj7, 1971 Dart, 1942 Willys slat grill
Ok new world record time to beat for complete EFI swap….32 minutes
Instantly fired up and running good, major step forward for the tow pig
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Instantly fired up and running good, major step forward for the tow pig
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CJ
Admin
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'82 CJ8, 258, D300, AMC20, D30
It only gets better as you drive and it learns... 
I hope your still on the wiring... 
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- 84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
It’s just a pig with no lipstick. The Jeep has the lipstick on it.
- Posts
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- Rockwall,TX
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- 1983 cj7, 1971 Dart, 1942 Willys slat grill
Lol, I ripped the OEM TBI out of it and i still need to figure out what that wiring is for since i only need like 14 wires from the truck harness
I also tossed that holley unit on it in a big hurry to make sure the tach signal issues were indeed a faulty Fitech unit problem and it definitely was so lots of wiring clean up to go
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I also tossed that holley unit on it in a big hurry to make sure the tach signal issues were indeed a faulty Fitech unit problem and it definitely was so lots of wiring clean up to go
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- Posts
- 12,369
- Featured
- 3
- Media
- 71
- Resources
- 2
- Thanks
- 278
- Location
- Rockwall,TX
- Vehicle(s)
- 1983 cj7, 1971 Dart, 1942 Willys slat grill
One day i would like to paint both of them…. One day
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Posts
- 6,721
- Featured
- 1
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- 20
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- 3
- Thanks
- 637
- Location
- New Orleans area
- Vehicle(s)
- 84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
Just remember pigs have a pink hue to them.
- Posts
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- 278
- Location
- Rockwall,TX
- Vehicle(s)
- 1983 cj7, 1971 Dart, 1942 Willys slat grill
Boy oh boy i finally got off my butt and finished the body mount relocation to fit my YJ tub almost 10 years after i installed the tub
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coldair
Full Time Jeeper
Does this mean I wont be picking body mounts up off the trail this year?
Boy oh boy i finally got off my butt and finished the body mount relocation to fit my YJ tub almost 10 years after i installed the tub
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