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AMC 20 Axle Woe's

AMC 20 Axle Woe's

SteveJr

Jeeper
Posts
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Location
Plymouth,Ca.
Vehicle(s)
76 CJ5, 304 T150 trans ,Model @0 t-case,Dana 20 Rear and Dana 30 front..
While attempting to replace the axles seals and bearings on my 76 CJ5 ,I noticed the inside of the drivers side hub has been rubbing on the brake hardware, I figures since the seals and bearings were shot there was so much play it was just allowing the axle to wallow around causing it rub but after all fresh parts the hub still wants to rub.. Any help would be great...
 
if you post pictures of evrything apart maybe that might help, you might have wore metal to metal check for any wore edges where the race sets. if you havent already do the moser if not moser any one peice is better then the stock stuff. any work done on two piece axles is a waste of time no offence.:) they will break no matter what!!!
 
I plan on doing the one piece conversion but for now Im just stopping a leak.. The PO had the outer seal behind the backing plate,so thats how i was putting it back together, I put the seal on the outside of the backing plate and now I have clearance...
 
Check the axle end play. The two piece axles use a shim pack to set end play. If that seal was on the wrong side, you may not have the correct shim set. Mine is leaking also and I want to change the bearings. I just don't have the proper indicator to set the end play. The one piece kits that use the Timken bearings are a better set up. No shimming. I've also been running mine with the axle nut exposed. I think once you get a little corrosion on the splines inside the hub, failure is imminent.
 
IIRC-OEM 2-piece axle shims are only on the D/S of the rear, to set 'play'.
LG
 
I have 4 shims of three different thicknesses, does that sound about right?


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You'll need to check end play as mentioned. You don't have to buy an expensive dial indicator you can find them for around $25-$35 with a magnetic base. Check the end play while pushing and pulling the shaft, end play should be .004-.008
 
Not trying to hijack this thread, but I have a quik question about the AMC20 two piece axles. Are the axles only two piece on the drivers side? I ask this because I have replaced the bearing/seals on the passenger side, and that axle was one piece....however, very short. Thanks! :chug:
 
Not trying to hijack this thread, but I have a quik question about the AMC20 two piece axles. Are the axles only two piece on the drivers side? I ask this because I have replaced the bearing/seals on the passenger side, and that axle was one piece....however, very short. Thanks! :chug:

OEM was 2 piece both sides--
LG
 
OEM was 2 piece both sides--
LG

Yep, I get it now. They are two piece because the hubs are removable......thought I had one piece, but I dont. :( :chug:
 
Get yourself a set of Moser 1 piece axles.
LG
 
Get yourself a set of Moser 1 piece axles.
LG

Some day I will. Going to have to live with the two piece for now...and not get too rough with the old girl. So far, thw AMC20 and two piece are holding up well behind the 360 :chug:
 
Thanks for the info on this issue, I have a 79 CJ7 AMC20 open rear end, when I got it both axle bearing were gone, D/S was so bad it ate through the bearing, backing plate, seal, and dust cover. I think whom ever had it had no idea about end play. As I read I understand the Passenger side goes together with no shims, and the driver side is then shimmed to get the .006 required? There were shims on both sides, and I have all new axles, seals, bearings, and shims, I just want to make sure this goes back correctly, and I don't bind one side trying to get clearance on the other. Thanks so much for this information.
 

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