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I will be putting new Moser 1-piece axles in my AMC20 in the spring when my shoulder heals up. Trolling the last few days I have seen several people mention welding the tubes on the AMC20 as an upgrade. To me that begs the question of what welding the tubes means? I assume it is not just running a bead down the tube for some odd reason but I can't figure out what is being talked about from the context. Can somebody clue me in?
I will be putting new Moser 1-piece axles in my AMC20 in the spring when my shoulder heals up. Trolling the last few days I have seen several people mention welding the tubes on the AMC20 as an upgrade. To me that begs the question of what welding the tubes means? I assume it is not just running a bead down the tube for some odd reason but I can't figure out what is being talked about from the context. Can somebody clue me in?
You’re exactly right on the welding assumption. The AMC20 tubes are pressed into the housing which is weak under high torsion situations and can fail (catastrophically). If you weld them to the housing it’s much stronger.
Some people even go so far as to weld a truss bar that runs across the housing between both tubes. Depends on how hard of wheeling you intend to do.
Just remember, there is a slight amount of movement of the work piece when you weld, so can’t just start welding and run the bead all the way around. You have to skip weld it to account for the movement. It’s not hard.
That’s right! They get welded at the tube/diff housing interface. No problem. I’m upgrading mine to a 4.10 gear ratio (I also did the Moser 1-piece shaft). When the work is finished I’ll post some photos so you can see the weld.
That’s right! They get welded at the tube/diff housing interface. No problem. I’m upgrading mine to a 4.10 gear ratio (I also did the Moser 1-piece shaft). When the work is finished I’ll post some photos so you can see the weld.
Thanks, I won't be getting to mine until March or April. Gotta love getting old and the shoulder isn't healing the way its supposed to so I am using the downtime to stock up on parts for major work in the spring. I just spend for the Painless harness that I will put in first.
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
There is a little cylindrical block between the both axle shafts in the center of the differential. Removal costs a few minutes, and you are on the safe side in case the one piece axles are slightly longer.
You have to remove one safety Pin with a small Punch, then you can move the center Pin of the differential enough to push the thrust block into one of the axle tubes.
With a hose you can now push it to the axle flange and get it out.
PS: Good choice with the Mosers, did it last Winter.
'79 CJ5, 258 I6, T150 w/Dana20, Dana30 front and AMC20 rear. My first Jeep! I'm looking forward to doing some minor upgrades and restoration while enjoying the ride.
'79 CJ5, 258 I6, T150 w/Dana20, Dana30 front and AMC20 rear. My first Jeep! I'm looking forward to doing some minor upgrades and restoration while enjoying the ride.
At the 10:50 time mark he starts talking about the rod to use so that's where you want to listen to answer your question, but the whole video is great.
At the 10:50 time mark he starts talking about the rod to use so that's where you want to listen to answer your question, but the whole video is great.
Thanks for the video link, now I have a much better idea of what everyone is talking about. Luckily, one of my buddies is a welder by trade so I will probably ask him to do it as I am at best a crappy welder who welds good enough to build stock panels for the barn and that is about it.
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