Are these used axles beyond recovery?

[Flex BT]

Hey now... I can use the Overdrive . It just has to be perfectly flat or downhill.

I was having problems with shaking when going into gear and my best lead was a clutch issue. It was worst in 1st gear and happened a little bit maybe in others if I didn't shift smoothly. While searching for a clutch I came across a guy selling a good condition flywheel, bellhousing and new clutch /plate along with a T-5 , and all new linkage parts / pilot bushing etc. I threw all that in there and it seemed to be smoother but still would shake when going into first. After having replaced all that and scratching my head some others suggested that the problem is likely due to either the 2.72 gears or possibly having too high of an angle on my drive shaft due to the lift. I have plans for a new Tom Woods CV drive shaft but before I order it I want to get the axle situation nailed down to get a "for sure" measurement.

I don't want to get sidetracked with drive shaft talk but I will include some info here just in case it might be a contributing or main factor. The jeep does have a substantial suspension lift on it. When the PO put it on instead of keeping the drive shaft angles equal, as we all know is proper, he pointed the rear diff straight at the xfer case as if it had a double cardan drive shaft. I assume he did this because of the severe angle. I'm good about keeping things greased but the Xfer side U joint blew out, presumably because of the stress due to the angle, and was a less than pleasant experience. I have been driving the jeep a lot less since then until I can get the whole mess sorted out and have a little more faith that I won't die in an impromptu pogo stick experience. Like I said before, I bought the jeep with much less knowledge than I have now and I've been working through a lot of issues slowly but surely, one thing at a time. You all have been a tremendous help along the way. I've got a lot accomplished but am having a bastard of a time getting this shaking thing under control.

 

[IOPort51]

4:56s would make about 60 mph @2500 in 5th. That could work. killer first gear @ 48:1

Really $600 an axle isn't too bad a price.

 

[Flex BT]

4.56 is definitely in consideration, if I do re-gear myself I may go that route. I figured the one piece axles I could add at a later time without any problem. If I can save the ~$250 expenditure right now I need to.

 

[mtnwhlr]

I think anything you do will be an improvement over what you have now.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

4.56 is definitely in consideration, if I do re-gear myself I may go that route. I figured the one piece axles I could add at a later time without any problem. If I can save the ~$250 expenditure right now I need to.

You would do well to do the axle change at the same time.
The 2 piece axles are a tick'n bomb.
BTW-When I still had my 4:56s, at 65mph(gps)I was turn'n 2650 rpm with a certified tach.
LG

 

[Flex BT]

Was that in 5th?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Was that in 5th?

Of course.
LG

 

[IOPort51]

You would do well to do the axle change at the same time.
The 2 piece axles are a tick'n bomb.
BTW-When I still had my 4:56s, at 65mph(gps)I was turn'n 2650 rpm with a certified tach.
LG

33s?

the 60 (actually 59 MPH) was on 31s with the 4.56: axles@2500rpm.
this is, of course , all calculated numbers.

 

[Hedgehog]

These numbers are making me wonder. In high or 1:1 with 31's actually measured @ 28.5" with 3.73 gears both calculated and actual numbers are ~2850 @ 65 mph measured on my GPS. Sorry Grits my tach. is not certified so I suppose all my data is , but it's good enough for me. It would be great to be at ~2500 rpm @ 65 mph. My 360 seems to like 2500 rpm, there's more to this mileage stuff than pure numbers and compensating fuel costs.

 

[Flex BT]

Anyone care to weigh in on if they think I've been misguided on the shaking while getting into gear?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

33s?

the 60 (actually 59 MPH) was on 31s with the 4.56: axles@2500rpm.
this is, of course , all calculated numbers.

Yes-BFG/AT.
LG

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Anyone care to weigh in on if they think I've been misguided on the shaking while getting into gear?

Put'n into gear OR pull'n away is when you get the shakes?
Who's clutch are you using?
Did you replace the motor and tranny mounts??
LG

 

[Flex BT]

Yes, New motor and Transmission . mounts. It shakes when power is being applied from a stop and the clutch pedal is released.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Was the flywheel resurfaced when the clutch was installed?
Is there any oil leaks at the rear of the engine?
Again-WHOS clutch? Ceramic clutch plates will many times, cause a shake.
LG

 

[Flex BT]

It was a brand new clutch, the flywheel was clean and flat. I didn't see a brand on any of the gear but I do know it was a slightly bigger clutch than was previously installed.

 

[Hedgehog]

Lumpy is right, you have a clutch problem.

I have my doubts about some of the the other supposedly related problems, I am beginning to believe some of the motor mount, loose bolts and other seemingly unclutch related possible problems are internet myth. Not because I'm looking for a fight, but because I've asked some guys that have professionally worked on clutches for a long time. When I say something like motor mounts they laugh at the idea. I really don't know, but I'm beginning to wonder. I've written this before, my Go To Jeep guy says that over tha past few years he has seen more and more clutch chattering troubles when everything seems correct .... (meaning no oil, new everything inside the bell housing, machined flywheel, with the proper torque all around) .... He believes the problem is with the pressure plate springs not delivering consistent pressure on the flywheel.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I'll bet the f'wheel is NOT flat.
How did you ck for flat?
Was 'flat' ck'd from the crankshaft mount area on the f'wheel, to the pressure plate side. Was the T.I.R less that .005"?
Also-was a new pilot bearing installed with the new clutch?
What type of pressure plate are you using? 3 finger, of diaphragm type---
You have a clutch/flywheel issue--
LG

 

[Flex BT]

well this is why I love you guys. and hate myself. New pilot was installed. I just checked across the flywheel surface with a known straight edge and assumed foolishly that it was good. the pressure plate had I believe 6 fingers.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The f'wheel must be parallel to the crank mount surface and flat.
SO-You don't know who made your clutch??
Pull the f'wheel and have it resurfaced.
Post some pictures and see if we can ID the clutch.
Good luck,
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

If your not going to replace the pressure plate, replace your used clutch disk.

Warning: the flywheel will require SERIOUS torque on the bolts (make sure your mounting surface on the crank is clean), I believe the torque setting on my Jeep was 110 ft/lbs. Remember the flywheel is balanced for the engine (externally balanced). There aren't any markings on it. You put the flywheel on and rotate it until the bolt holes line up, there is only one way to get the bolts to take. If you ask me its a clever solution to mounting something properly.

I'm beginning to be a believe in 3 finger clutches, I've installed 2 diaphram units and they have both seen troubles. The 3 finger clutches seem to pop right in and never complain.