Carb stove pipe plate...

[007]

I have converted my carburetor to a manual choke. One of my stove pipes that heated the old choke was broke and the other was loose. I popped them off and make an fantastic bracket to hold my choke cable. Bracket was supposed to mount on the outermost stove plate bolt. Naturally I twisted the head off of it.

What are my options? What's underneath here? Can I just tack weld my bracket on the plate or is it ABSOLUTELY necessary that I get the bolt out, etc.?




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[Lilredwagon]

I'd take it off and see if there is a vacuum supply to it. If so, then it has to be taken off and fixed; but I don't think it is, I think it's just a heat reservoir so it's not a big deal you can just tack it. if your going to tack it I'd clean up the oil around it though or you might get a little more heat than you bargained on.

 

[007]

Okay. I'll just hit it good with carb cleaner and tack it on there. There's no vacuum around there. Thank you so much...


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[mriplaybass]

There is a tube which kind of looks like the heating element on some electric water heaters. It is a loop shaped like an "L". All it does is heats the air drawn by the vacuum through the choke thereby heating the bi-metal element inside the choke adjuster, which operates the choke. I had the same problem with our AMC 304 . I wanted to repair the heat exchanger, but ended up breaking off the bolts. If I remember correctly, if the plate which has the tubes coming out of it is not sealed, you will have a vacuum leak. There is a gasket under the plate against the intake manifold. As long as the tubes are not rusted through, you can leave it alone. If the tubes are rusted through, you will have to plug them. I ended up making a solid plate to cover the opening, and redrilling and tapping the manifold to accept larger bolts. I did this free hand with a cordless drill. Not a lot of fun, not exactly straight, but the plate did seal. I just cut a gasket out of hi temp gasket material. I had a manual choke initially, but swapped it out for an automatic one. I think it only cost around $20, and works like a dream.

 

[007]

I'm odd, I like automatic transmissions and manual chokes. I have never felt vacuum on these ports. The front one (right) has been broken for years and there's no vacuum there. The back one went to and odd disc thingy then to a port on the air horn. I just tore it off to get rid of it.

I guess I'll test run it tomorrow and shoot some water there and see what happens.


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[mriplaybass]

The factory choke gets it's vacuum from a port on the side of the carb behind the automatic choke. It draws air through the heat exchanger by way of the tube on the choke and eventually the air horn. Your manual choke conversion kit should be set up in a way that it will block off the vacuum port behind the automatic choke adjustment.

 

[007]

The factory choke gets it's vacuum from a port on the side of the carb behind the automatic choke. It draws air through the heat exchanger by way of the tube on the choke and eventually the air horn. Your manual choke conversion kit should be set up in a way that it will block off the vacuum port behind the automatic choke adjustment.

Well that makes sense I think. I ran it last night and sprayed around and couldn't find any leaks. I'll plug those ports nonetheless.

I'm going to tack on my bracket tonight and figure out a way to get it fed through the firewall to a clean space. Also need to mount a dual switch for fast idle and compressor.


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[Hedgehog]

The idea of tacking the bracket somehow seems wrong to me, you are locking down a system that you might want to use later on or if you sell/move on your CJ the next owner will need to jump through hoops to get working again. Also he will have to join this forum to post about what the PO did to his CJ. You don't want that. I'd remove the other bolt and pop the cover off. Frequently a bolt will come off easily once the pressure is off. If not you can drill and tap as Mr. Bass did. Then do what ever bypass you desire. But .... that might be just me.

Edit: Also, it wouldn't hurt to gently power wash you engine. That much oil and accumulated mud/rust didn't happen over night.

 

[Dan86CJ7]

to get the bolt out, weld a nut to the top of the broken stud and the heat from the welder should help budge it, should do the trick..do this at work all the time for exhaust manifold bolts.

 

[Lilredwagon]

You are awfully close to your gas filled carborator. Be careful. I'm looking forward to seeing pictures.

 

[mtnwhlr]

Once you take the plate off there maybe enough of the bolt sticking up to get a pair of vicegrips on it and unscrew it.

 

[007]

I hit it good with brake cleaner and it's completely clean. I just don't see how this is worth the effort folks. I'm sure the other one will break off too then I'll have to pull the carb to fix something I don't need or want anyway on the off-chance a future owner might want it. I'm gonna JB Weld my bracket on here. If theres a future owner he can grind it off or just deal with the Edelbrock that may be there by then anyway.

These stove chokes are a joke of a solution anyway in my opinion.


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[IOPort51]

Is that steel or cast??

 

[Hedgehog]

Sometimes it's the little stuff that counts.

 

[007]

Too late. JB Weld to the rescue. Anyone caring about that mod is nutz anyway so no worries.

I'm not done installing it yet. I need a better solution to what holds the cable to the arm than what the kit provides. Small hex bolt and washers will have it done tomorrow.




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[Hedgehog]

I've never had luck with JB weld. Sorry but its true. Don't really care for being called nutz, but hey it's the small stuff.

 

[jdcaples]

While I don't have that kind of choke system, as far as I can tell, I'm going to ask what is a stove pipe choke and how it's supposed to work by design?

Right now, I can only guess that heat is transferred from (what I guess is) the intake manifold to something on - or integral to - the carburetor, but honestly, I feel completely lost.

I've been following this thread hoping to learn something, gain an understanding of what y'all are taking about; I've been using every search engine I can think of and discovered there is exactly one occurrence of the character string "stove" in my factory service manual (which is in the description of a halide torch J-6084).

I'm still lost.

Can someone explain what problem the "stove pipe" solves to me, please?

DIY knowledge acquisition has failed me entirely.


Thanks!


-Jon

 

[mriplaybass]

I guess "stove pipe" is just kind of a term the is loosely used. It is also referred to as the "choke tube".
The way it works is, air is drawn in by carburetor vacuum through a tube that is inside the intake manifold. The air is heated and passes through the choke body and heats the element causing it to expand and open the choke. The source of the air is a tube which I believe is connected to the air cleaner.
I had the same problem as 007, but opted for an electric choke as a replacement.

 

[jdcaples]

Thanks for the description and the picture!!!

So we have at least three solutions to the problem of getting the engine to operating temperature faster than it would at idle: Manual, Electric and factory choke systems.

"Factory" seems elegant at first, but for whatever reason fails (metal fatigue/age, corrosion, wrenching person error or some combination of conditions). Parts are hard to find.

"Electric" is automatic, but adds some component complexity (wires, coil spring etc), needs a another tool (like a multi-meter, maybe wire strippers and wire repair supplies) to t-shoot thoroughly and repair, but it's not rocket science.

"Manual" is simple and easy to troubleshoot, repair/replace/rig on the road or trail.

Do I got it?

-Jon

 

[007]

I believe the "factory" changed to electric in later model years than my 77. Other than that, you're correct.


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