CJ7 Newbie - Transmission grinding and general advise

[mmokka]

Hi guys,
I just picked up a 78 CJ7 last night for 1000$ (thought it was cheap.. you tell me), don't know much about it, other than it has the inline 6cyl (unsure if its the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l yet), and 3sp manual tranny.

It has definitely seen better days.. the body is tired and beat the heck out of it.

I'm debating what to do with it, certainly do not have the budget to go all resto on it. I really bought it just to go on trails, off-roading this summer. 50% city- 50% off-road is what I am thinking

I am an engineer and I work on cars and have rebuilt engines, etc. but mostly japanese and german cars, specifically BMWs. So I know this is a whoooole different game when talking jeeps from what I've read.

First two priorities to get her running right which I would like to hear your opinion / input.

1. Tranny: I can push the clutch and get the lever in first gear; when I release the clutch (engaging engine), there is gear grind and it can be felt on the lever. What are your thoughts / what else can I try to troubleshoot?
- If needing a tranny replacement, how hard is it to do on jeeps and for how much can I find a used tranny for? pref 4sp

2. Steering: Now, I know this is not an BMW, which is what I've been used to driving, but I literally have about 30-40deg of steering rotational play; making it very crazy to drive above 30mph. Before I get to play with the jeep tonight, is there something "common" that need to be repaired on jeeps to get this steering play out?

3. Cosmetics: The frame is in great shape, now the tub... is a whole different story.. really... its a mess. What would be the cheapest way to improve appearance and cover up all the crappy spots? I can do basic painting at home, but would like to cover up the crappy areas. see photo

Your input is highly appreciated !

Attached a photo of the old lady...

 

[hole]

With the Transmission , you might want to start by checking fluid level. Gear grind/noise usually indicates damage already done, but sometimes changing the fluid out can help buy time. Who knows when it was changed last and it wont cost much if theres no improvement. You have many options to consider for a 4spd. Go to Novak Jeep Conversions - Home they have a wealth of information about Transmission swaps.
Steering could be a few things, ball joints, tie rod ends, steering linkage ends, gear box. Get a buddy to turn the wheel back and forth while you look to see where the culprit(s) are.
As far as cosmetics go, I'd work the mechanical bugs out first

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Get a copy of the REAL, FSM(not Haynes or Chilton)and read it.
Make sure the clutch has no more than 1-1 1/2" pedal freeplay.
LG

 

[CJJeeper]

I agree with the ideas that were stated above. The Transmission issue like he said if it is grinding something is more than likely already gone, either syncros or clutch. I have a T-176 Transmission in my CJ and recently did a rebuild on it. Not that hard so that is an option. Take off the inspection cover where the stick shift is, remove the top cover to the Transmission and look in there to see what is going on. from there you will be able to see the gears and syncros to really see if there is a mechanical issue.

 

[Techlight]

Here's a link from this forum on what to do when bringing a new CJ home...I think the first step is setting out newspaper so it doesn't pee in the house

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f49/what-do-after-getting-cj-home-3563/

Since you asked for opinions I'll throw mine out there: I'd agree with the mechanical fixes as top priority. Just cause I'm anal I'd suggest draining and refilling all the fluids. People do some strange things with Jeeps and it's a good way to get a feel for what the PO was (or was not) doing with the Jeep by the condition of the fluid. A tune up wouldn't hurt and it gives you some info too on how it's running etc. I'd also check the u-joints, brakes, steering, front end play, and frame condition (if you didn't before you bought it) but that's me.

It's fun also to do little cosmetic things to keep up enthusiasm while your Jeeps in pieces in the driveway too so my vote goes for a few of those as well. I would remove those racks up top and those chrome things on your rear fender wells ... other than that I think she looks okay and buying a few things that you "like" isn't gonna hurt anything. Depends on your budget though...if your Limited on funds I'd only focus on mechanical fixes.

Full disclosure: I just bought an 84 CJ7 and have done zero cosmetic stuff to it though, so I barely follow my own advice lol...unless you consider new seat belts, an aluminum valve cover, and a 1inch body lift cosmetic (which some do), but hey I needed new body bushings so what the heck .

I paid 1800 for mine with a blown motor so I think your deal was pretty good since it's running mostly. I've replaced a ton of stuff on mine and left the tub alone...i plan on wheeling it, not showing it so it works for me. She'll be done in about two days...I saved my bushings for last hence why it's in pieces currently haha. Only one week to go and it'll be a daily driver because even though I own a little honda civic the Jeep is waaay more fun, and it's summer!

 

[Saddle Tramp]

Congrats on the score. With the Transmission I would start with the clutch adjustment. As stated there should be about an inch or so of play when the push down on the peddle before you feel the presser of the clutch springs. More play than that and the clutch could be out of adjustment. If OEM then it is mechanical; the adjustment is down by the frame on the driver’s side, crawl under and you will see it. If that’s not it then the clutch may need to come out. I assume you have the stock T-150 Transmission . Good news here is that a T-18 Transmission was offered as a factory option in 1978 so you can swap in either a CJ T-18 or Ford T-18 with little fuss and use your existing bell housing as it is drilled and tapped for both versions. A CJ T-18 will come with the rear adaptor to mate to the Dana 20 Transfer Case as part of the Transmission where the Ford version (the 2 wheel drive tranny is the best swap) will need an adaptor and rear shaft swap; kit available for Novak or Advanced Adaptors. Also the Ford front shaft is about an 1” shorter than the CJ T-18 or T-150 so you will need a special pilot bushing also available from Novak and AA.

I would park the jeep until you get the steering sorted. Start at the steering shaft. The shaft has a small U-joint, check that. Also the shaft is in two parts where the lower part slips into the upper shaft. This connection is splined so check and make sure the splines aren’t worn. Then move to the steering box. I might be that the box is broken away from the frame which will let the box move as you steer. Have a buddy turn the wheel back and forth while you check movement. Now you are down to the ball joints. Look for slop and wear.

As far as the rust make POR 15 your best friend and use it liberally. If you need a new tub not too far from you in Toledo is a parts shop named Willys-Oveland. They have the original CJ blue prints from Jeep so the tub is guaranteed to fit right.