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Build Thread CJ7 restoration in progress- Advice please

Build Thread CJ7 restoration in progress- Advice please
LongHorn said:
I've never seen anyone bolt the roll bar through the carpet before.;)
Click to expand...

Yeah well I figure I spent $250 to strip and paint the thing, so I might as well show it off...

The real reason is the carpet is such a good fit, I just didn't want to start hacking it up to slide the bar plates underneath.
 
Just finishing up the doors with new door panels... These are actually damn good reproductions. Have to punch out the window crank and door grab holes, but very easy install from there. Pre-cut holes to insert panel screws as well.

I got the wrong size screws to remount the trim retainer piece, so no finished pics yet.

1st pic is the original stock panel.
 
I recently installed replacement door opening handles/locking mechanism. Taken out of the box, they look awesome all shiny and new, especially when compared to the 27 year old faded originals. Unfortunately, that is the only good thing I can honestly say about them. :(

New vs Old
 
Problem 1: The "bevel" on the replacement part (pic1) is more steep than original (pic2) causing it to have a gap when mounted (pic3). Small detail, but worth mentioning
 
Problem 2: The handle itself on replacement (p1) is not as thick as the original (pic3). When you open the door, it flexes and bends. I think it will ultimately break sooner than later. Also, the spring in the original that is 27 yrs old has much more tension. It just feels tighter/stronger. In both pics my finger is holding it open. The original is pinching my finger. The other hardly at all.
 
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Problem 3: This is the big one... When you pull the handle to open the door too hard, the handle pops out of its mounting bracket. AND THAT IS TOTAL :dung:!

In the pic you can see the handle and lock sunken inside the bracket.
 
So here is the problem, or better yet, why it does not happen on original:

The original handle/lock mechanism snaps into place as you can see in the picture. It sits under the V and is pinned into place. To get that out, you need to take a screwdriver and spread the V apart to allow it to pass.

The replacement simply sits in a U with 2 small little nubs that lock it in place. Doesn't take much to pop it free.

I don't have a pic of the replacement part from that angle so you'll have to take my word for it.
 
And to fix it? Well, I have to remove the single screw in the bracket, which is no big deal. But you also have to remove all the screws from the locking mechanism cover plate as well. Then you have to re-seat it, which takes a couple tries to get it to fit back in place and you have to tape the edge so you don't chip the paint, then put it all back together... Kinda ruins the day after the 5th or 6th time. :(

So I think I am going to wash the originals in a warm soapy bath and go from there. I was thinking maybe hitting them with a permanent black magic marker. I don't really care about the white "LOCK" writing...

I know they also make vinyl paint but I will test it out on the back side to see if it will work or not.

Worst case, I leave them be and they look faded.

Now, if you MUST buy these, they are functional and they are better than nothing. But if you can, stick with your originals.

Just my opinion.
 
bullseye said:
So here is the problem, or better yet, why it does not happen on original:

The original handle/lock mechanism snaps into place as you can see in the picture. It sits under the V and is pinned into place. To get that out, you need to take a screwdriver and spread the V apart to allow it to pass.

The replacement simply sits in a U with 2 small little nubs that lock it in place.* Doesn't take much to pop it free.

I don't have a pic of the replacement part from that angle so you'll have to take my word for it.
Click to expand...

*I need to make an edit here. The replacement looks identical to the original and seats itself the exact same way under the V. My bad. :notworthy:

The problem is the replacement's plastic is not as hard and flexes much easier than the original.

All looks and no heart.
 
Made in China right? :mad:
 
I purchased a new set of fender flares from Crown automotive. They are a match to the original stock and therefore use the same mounting holes.

They supply mounting hardware. I included the 4 rusty originals and the 2 black painted screws that came with the kit. I replaced those painted screws with stainless steel.

The original fenders are a glossy black with the replacements are flat and more of a charcoal than black in color, which is fine with me. They also are stronger and less flexible.

I like them. They go in very easily as well.
 
A suggestion and a question for the forum. I suggest you do not use armor all on these or any other plastic that is exposed to sunlight.
The question is if Armor all changed it's formula to something that did not destroy the UV resistance in plastic.
It has been quite a number of years since I have used Armor all because it would make the difference between the flairs cracking in a year and the flairs still being good after 15 years.:cool:
 
I have not used AA in years either, but did at one time on those flares. I do not know if they have changed their formula. They are still in decent shape for being 26yrs old...

I will not use AA or anything else for that matter on these new flares.
 
Finally put the rivets in to hold the door panel retainer bar. I think the doors really came out nice. The replacement panels look awesome too.

2664d1269747198-cj7-restoration-progress-advice-please-img_3031.jpg


Don't forget your vapor barrier if you are putting any panels on the door.
 
wait......jeeps had doors???
 
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