Dana 300

Dana 300
If there isnt any rock crawling in your future

Pete, he's from cincinnati so I'm going to do my best to show him the light and steer him clear of the mud.:D
Did I ever mention I hate mud.
 
Pete, he's from cincinnati so I'm going to do my best to show him the light and steer him clear of the mud.:D
Did I ever mention I hate mud.

:notworthy:
 
Thanks for the advice! 2 wheel low would be 4l without the front locked, correct? My reasoning for the ring and pinion is: when starting off, the 35's do not want to roll. It barely gets going. It shakes like right before you stall in too high a gear. This is why I am getting 4.56. Any thoughts?
 
My reasoning for the ring and pinion is: when starting off, the 35's do not want to roll. It barely gets going. It shakes like right before you stall in too high a gear. This is why I am getting 4.56. Any thoughts?

Yes, for 35 inch tires I would go with 4.56 or 4.88 gears. Use this chart and shoot for the green area to bring your gearing back to stock.
_35422.jpg

You also have an Overdrive tranny so I would go with 4.88. That's what I have with 36 inch tires but I don't have Overdrive . My RPMs are plenty low on the highway. They'd be even lower with your Overdrive .

BTW what gears do you have now?
 
Do not know how to tell. They can't be 373, wouldn't 373 be drivable? Mine is not. I'm thinking 456 for a little more economy over 488. The fact that I have od puts me on the edge. Will a 488 have serious benefit over 456?
 
I'm thinking 456 for a little more economy over 488. The fact that I have od puts me on the edge. Will a 488 have serious benefit over 456?
There won't be much difference between the 4.88 and 4.56. They both would return back to about what oem gearing was (compensating for tire size). Since you have OD that's why I say 4.88 but it's not much difference.
 
Do not know how to tell.

There are a few ways... If it does not have the tag on the diff cover, the next easiest way is to raise tires off the ground and do some turning / counting.

CJ explained it well in a post: I can't find it at the moment, but the basics were,

You count the difference in Tire turns vs driveshaft turns. There are differences between 1 piece and 2 piece axles, and how you do this.:confused:

Someone else will hopefully chime in with a better explanation of how to do this etc. :notworthy: I can't find the exact post, and don't want to give you false info...

I always pop the cover off and count teeth. If you fluid could use changing anyways, this may be a good way ? :cool:

:chug:

~ JR
 
There are a few ways... If it does not have the tag on the diff cover, the next easiest way is to raise tires off the ground and do some turning / counting.

CJ explained it well in a post: I can't find it at the moment, but the basics were,

You count the difference in Tire turns vs driveshaft turns. There are differences between 1 piece and 2 piece axles, and how you do this.:confused:

Someone else will hopefully chime in with a better explanation of how to do this etc. :notworthy: I can't find the exact post, and don't want to give you false info...

I always pop the cover off and count teeth. If you fluid could use changing anyways, this may be a good way ? :cool:

:chug:

~ JR
I believe you were talking about this post. -->> http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/need-higher-top-speed-9749/#post80441

I also add a thread to the technical forum. -->> http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f99/how-determine-your-gear-ratio-10217/
 
Thanks for the links! Old dog, I think that I agree on no mud, I'm reading horror stories of wear and tear.
 
Thanks for the advice! 2 wheel low would be 4l without the front locked, correct? My reasoning for the ring and pinion is: when starting off, the 35's do not want to roll. It barely gets going. It shakes like right before you stall in too high a gear. This is why I am getting 4.56. Any thoughts?

I have a twin stick in mine so I really ment 2wd low. For you that would be 4wd low till I talk you into getting a twin stick :D you don't want to have to get out of your jeep to lock in the hubs all the time.
I would bet your 85 has 2:73 gears. With 35's and a 5 speed I'd go with the 4:88's, when we get you climbing thoes rock ledges your be glad you did.
 
I would bet your 85 has 2:73 gears. With 35's and a 5 speed I'd go with the 4:88's, when we get you climbing thoes rock ledges your be glad you did.

Just gonna 2nd what Ol Dog has said. The majority of your later 80s Cjs had 2.72s. Rocks now instead of mud? Your learning already. :D 4.88s for rocks most definately. Since your leaning more toward rocks now Id look into other ways to clear your 35s than a soa lift. Not that it cant be done but it would give you more stability if you keep the cog lower. Are you going to narrow the axles or no? You will need to to keep it legal atleast here in the Communist state of Pennsylvania. :mad:
 
when we get you climbing thoes rock ledges your be glad you did.


See this is cool! I need me some fellow California Jeepers to go play with!

My Uncle and I go out, but we don't have a bunch of people to show us the spots, we just start finding our own :cool:

:chug:

~ JR
 
Pete. Is soa spring over? I am confused. I thought a suspension lift was just more leafs under greater tension. I thought that spring overs just added a few inches? Old dog, I keep hearing that! 4.88 seems to be the consensus!
 
A Spring Over Axle (SOA) conversion adds 6 inches of lift. Almost more than any lift that only uses springs.
If you buy lifted springs they have a higher arch and usually have firmer springs for stability.
 
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Thanx Busa. Now instead of lifting it with a soa and getting that 6 in of lift you could decide to buy a 4 in. lift and trim the sheetmetal around the fenders. Then you can use some Tj flares to keep you legal and cover those 35s.

The reason I bring this up is cause the higher you lift the Jeep , the higher your center of gravity (cog) is. The higher your cog the more top heavy and unstable it is in off camber situations on a short wheelbase Cj. Alot of rock crawling puts you in just these types of situations.

Heres a pic of my CJ7 with some used 2 1/2 in. leaf springs and 33s. A 4in. and Tj flares would work for 35s. Side by side you can see how much more room the Tj flares give after trimming.

Winterwarrior.jpg
Tjflare9.jpg
 
It makes sense! I think I have a four inch pro comp. The 35's look cramped, I couldn't imagine them having much travel at all. I will post a Pic in a sec.
 
I have a 4" lift and a 1" bl. I just got 35' on mine and I had to trim my rear wheelwells to tj size because they were hitting. Also had to take the lower corner off the back of the front because they would hit there when turning when stuffed.
 
you can see what I had to trim in the rear here. I'm working on some new bumpstops now.
Sorry about the stump but I don't have a rock in my yard.
 

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i am concerned about wheelin and rubbin. Here is a side view of the wells and a peek at the rear springs. I cannot tell if they are flattening out, i do not know how old the lift is. im assuming 4". should i downsize to 33's? what benefit does a taller tire have over a shorter one? Old dog, are you deadeye on orfw? im confused.:confused:
 

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