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Driveline popping/binding sound with video

Driveline popping/binding sound with video
Yes, with a Mile Marker Part Time Kit you use regular Transmission fluid.

Now with reference to taking the whole thing apart or just the back half. The Part time kit replaced the diferential that is in the OEM QT. That is the only other part that wears quickly. The slack in the chain could have damaged some of the gear teeth it rides on, but you will be able to see that by just taking the rear half of the case off. So no need to tear the whole thing down. Order a chain from BJ's. When you do they have a special deal that includes all of the seals and gaskets for just a little extra. It is a very good deal. Also order the plastic thrust washer (part #7). These wear out fast too. When everything is in, be sure to read all of the articles on the QT. Look at my build thread. Plan what you are going to do ahead of time. Remove the rear half of the case and replace the chain and the thrust washer. Look for any other damage, teeth of gears, case rub, etc. (If you have any damage, stop, take some pictures, post them or send them to me and I'll help you out.) Use some silicone gasket material and seal everything back up. You should now be able to spin it a little with the Transmission in neutral. Poof! You're all done. Time to test it out, or as soon as you get everything back together. I think your problem will be solved. If need be I can send you some more pictures of mine. It's really pretty easy though. Here is another article on the QT you might want to read: Frank's FSJ Garage - The Transfercase and this Original Jeep Quadra-Trac - Tech Articles - JP Magazine
 
jwnaron said:
So, if you guys have opinions of whether to just put a chain on it and be done with it or pull the whole Transfer Case out and go through the whole thing I'd like to hear opinions, especially from anyone that has already done the QT chain replacement.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

The only reason you would want to take the whole thing apart is if the seals around the yolks are leaking, or it is leaking somewhere else.

Let's just stick to the chain replacement to start with.
 
OK PB. I waiting on parts from BJ's. For $10 extra I got the kit with the gaskets included. I can't tell if that kit with the gaskets includes that plastic thrust washer or not. I ordered one anyway for $6. Probably knock this out on Friday as long as I have the parts by then. I started taking the reduction unit off as the first step according to the factory service manual. Dang those top 2 bolts where hard to get to. I can't tell how far is too far to drop that Transmission and Transfer Case down. Can't find anywhere the exact procedure for removing that cross member that the Transfer Case is bolted to, but i was able to get a jack stand in there and support the Transfer Case while I removed the cross member and then positioned another jack stand directly under the mount to support everything while I do the work. Oh well some stuff you just got to figure out yourself I guess.


Thanks for the recommendations on taking the whole TC out vs just making the repair. Nothing is leaking at the Transfer Case , so I'm probably just adding extra work for myself by pulling it all out. I agree, just removing the reduction unit and the rear cover of the TC is the right move.

Thanks again for everyone's help. I don't usually have good luck with forums. There is always some jerk that wants to post something that seems to make your question look kinda stupid and isn't helpful. So, thanks for all the legitimate help you guys are offering. I feel like this issue is gotta be common for the QT case, so hopefully this post/topic will help someone else with a QT. I'll make sure to post the results and some pics as I go through the repair, so we all get an answer to what the actual cause of this problem is/was. Probably be this weekend provided I have the parts.
 
mstar said:
LG, I am not a expert on the QT setup.do they use a simple 2 u-joint system or a double cardan in front or ? Are you saying the yokes should oppose each other 90* I have done it different is why I am asking
Click to expand...

There's a double in the front...
 
OEM was 2 U-joints on both DS's. All 4 U-joints for both DS's are the same.
The Dana-Spicer PN for this U-joint is 5-153X(zerk fitting model)
NEVER-EVER do the cheap on U-joints! I only use Dana-Spicer.
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
OEM was 2 U-joints on both DS's. All 4 U-joints for both DS's are the same.
The Dana-Spicer PN for this U-joint is 5-153X(zerk fitting model)
NEVER-EVER do the cheap on U-joints! I only use Dana-Spicer.
LG
Click to expand...



I think they have a DC in front. I know my stock one does. Can't remember why but they do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
DC setup is not OEM with the manual tranny. The FSM will confirm this.
Don't ever recall seeing one with the QT set up either. :confused::confused:
Some good QT info here.
Jeep QuadraTrac
LG
 
Last edited:
It's section 2E-1 in my TSM for 1979.

Basically everything was a single cardan for CJs except automatic Transmission equipped jeeps and they had a double cardan U-joint at the TC side of the front shaft only. Rear shaft for all CJs, 1979 anyway, were single cardan.

So for QuadraTrac equipped jeeps, which only came with the THM400, they all had a double cardan u-joint on the TC side of the front shaft. I went out and verified on mine as well.
 
All Quadratracs had the Double Cardin Joint on the front yolk of the Transfer Case . This is due to clearance issues with the automatic Transmission , and the fact that the Transmission is tilted toward the rear to make for a smoother transition from the TC to the rear Differential. This was necessitated due to such a short rear driveshaft.

You were right in ordering the thrust washer. It does not come with the kit. You won't need all of the seals, so get a good baggie and seal them up, mark them and save for later. Once you get the new chain, you'll notice a big difference in the fit compared to the old one. Be careful when putting everything back together. Those gears are heavy, easy to pinch some fingers or drop it on your head. :D The thrust washer goes toward the rear of the left hand gear set. You can use some grease or Vaseline on it to hold it in place. Don't be surprised if there is nothing there when you take it apart. Make sure you check the case for damage. It is aluminum and can be cracked or damaged very easily. If the chain has damaged the case in any areas, smooth those out and then flush with a little Transmission fluid.

I'm glad you find this forum helpful. There are a lot of smart people here with lots of experience, and they like to help. Please follow up with some pictures of what you found. If you get in a jam you can call me at 830-391-6348. If I don't answer, leave a message and I'll get right back to you. Good luck. You shouldn't have any problems.
 
Thank you BOTH for the info. Haven't seen a QT around here in over 15+ yrs.
LG
 
Thanks PB!!
 
Any updates?
 
Sorry I am taking so long with this. I was hoping to get this done this weekend, but I didn't get the thrust washer until yesterday in the mail, so I was kinda stuck. I'll spend some time on it tonight and try to at least get some pics up of what the inside looks like.
 
Don't rush this-Take your time and do it 'rite'.
:chug:
LG
 
:chug: agreed!
 
Ok so I've found some time to work on this tonight. I am ready to pull the rear cover off and this thing is STUCK on there. The PO used RTV to seal them back to together after the part time conversion. I am going to post some pics here in a min just have to get them from my phone to the site.

There is an ear where the reduction unit fits against the rear cover but is the perfect place to hammer the :dung: out of it with a pry bar and a 2lb sledge hammer to try and break the seal.

Is there an easier way or do I just need to try and beat these pieces apart?I'm guessing the RTV is acting like a glue. I have all bolts out except for 3 at the bottom and they are finger lose almost all the way out.

Just making sure I'm not about to screw this up by trying to separate these 2 pieces. The output shaft turns freely so I doubt there is something wedging them together from the inside.

Advice is appreciated. Pics to follow
 
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