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Driveline popping/binding sound with video

Driveline popping/binding sound with video
pic #1 - rear cover ready to be removed
pic #2 - passenger side seam, totally no place to separate
pic #3 - driver's side. You can see the ear sticking out where I took a pry bar and hammered it to try and break the seal. Afraid of damaging the aluminum case.

Apologize for the posting learning curve.
 
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Took the pinion gear cage off with the snap ring, even though the TSM explicitly I could leave it on, but the 4x2 conversion instructions had you removing it before the rear half of the case came off. Figured it couldn't hurt. Easy snap ring removal. Also, took the rear yoke off too. Easy peasy with the new Dewalt 1/2" impact wrench. 1"1/4 nut on a rotating shaft. no problem

This SHOULD free up the rear half of the Transfer Case if I can ever break the RTV seal. More hammering tomorrow since the wife is asleep and I would prob get run to bed if I started banging loud. You know what I'm talking about.

Here are the latest pics of the TC rear cover... begging to come off.
 
Sounds like the PO used the wrong type of RTZ. Be very carful with the hammer. Note that there are two pins not bolts that line up the two halves of the case. Spray these with WD40 or something like that. Using a very large screwdriver pry the case open. You'll have to do this evenly all the way around. Taking the low range gear off is a good idea, as it h just gets in the way. You might also try using a box cutter to cut the RTZ in places where you can get the blade in. Take you time, you don't want to break any part of the case. Good pictures by the way. Looks like a lot of new bushings, Transmission mount etc. That's good.
 
One more suggestion. If you feel like your having to apply too much force and might break the case, I would go ahead and remove the whole case. You'll have to support the Transmission , remove skid plate, remove the Transmission mount, remove the front yolk U-bolts. Sounds like a lot but at this point not much more. All of your parts look clean and should be easy to remove. Then you can put the case on a bench or floor and pry evenly around the entire case to get it separated. Once inside, if you have damage to the case, take a picture of it and post it. I should be able to advise you on the damage and whether to proceed with the chain replacement.
 
ok thanks. I'm going to try the razor blade idea. if cutting the gasket material doesn't work I'll pull it out and post pics as soon as I get it separated.

thanks.
 
ok so I finally got this bad boy opened. I just hit it a few more times on the back side of that ear and it popped open. No damage and all looks good as far as the rear cover goes.

The chain defintely has some slack in it as you can see.

BUT! I have the wrong chain! I bought the 46 pin 16% Overdrive chain and I the one I pulled out is the 48 pin chain. The PO said he just put the reg kit in, but I'll be damned if the paperwork that he gave me doesn't say 16% Overdrive on it.

Oh well, not sure if I can find the 16% because now would be the perfect time to upgrade. If anyone knows where I can get the 16% Overdrive kit please let me know, otherwise I've going to have to get the 48 tooth chain from BJs.

Here are some pics.
 
last pic is the new chain on the sprockets. looks good! too bad it won't work! I'm going to order new regular length chain tomorrow unless anyone can find the 4x2 conversion with 16% Overdrive , preferable without the chain, but I'll take whatever.
 
top chain is the new one, 46 link, and old one on bottom is 48 link.

thanks LG! trying to figure out what u guys wanna see and what's important to look at. if there is anything else you guys want me to take pics of just holler.
 
THX for the clarification.
Good luck on the 'hunt'.
LG
 
Unless I don't understand, I don't know why anyone would want the 16% Overdrive chain in a QuadraTrac . They're almost always mated to a TH 400, which is geared pretty tall to begin with. What I don't know is if the mile marker kit requires that particular chain.

That said, I'm pretty sure BJ's has both kits but would also know the answer to my question.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
from what I understand about the Overdrive , is that since the THM400 only has 3 gears you could still get decent highway speeds if you went with a lower gear at the differentials, like 4+

but 3rd gear is a 1:1 ratio I believe.

anybody got a good answer?

the 16% OD does require a 46link, shorter chain, than the stock 48 link. I guess that's how u get the OD, cause the replacement gear for the QT differential is smaller, more RPM at output shaft.

didn't see the OD kit from BJs.
 
I see the kits, with and without hubs, but can't tell if they are the OD kits or not. I may just call them monday and see if they have one.

Thanks 007.
 
Not sure where your project is, but if you need to remove the 4x2 kit for simplicity or parts availability, then don't be afraid to.

I personally don't think they bring much to the table. I'm not trying to start a religious discussion on them, they aren't junk, but I've never been presented with a compelling reason to have one; but to each his own.
 
well i dont have one now, and I could just order the correct chain and be done with it. might just go that route and put the money towards lockers.

it seems easy to over complicate this stuff.
 
jwnaron said:
well i dont have one now, and I could just order the correct chain and be done with it. might just go that route and put the money towards lockers.

it seems easy to over complicate this stuff.
Click to expand...

Well, lockers are a consideration when it comes to a QT without a 4x2 kit, you need to have a selectable locker in front, not a lunchbox. Something air or electrically activated.

You don't want it locking up without you knowing it.
 
it has a 4x2 kit in it now, just not 16% OD. I was thinking selectable like arb in rear, Detroit in front because on Highway front drive won't be engaged.
 
I think a TruTrac would be fine up front with or without a 4x2 kit (and in back too). I think the Overdrive though (IF I understand it right) just negates lower gears at any speed, so 3.54's become net 3.05's.

The more I think about this, the more I think I'm not understanding the 16% kits. Not sure of any application needing that unless it was an FSJ for on highway use...
 
Sorry I didn't get back here sooner, busy day. Return the chain you got and get the correct chain. I've heard good and bad about the reduction unit, but right now let's not change anything till you get a chance to drive it for awhile. That way you'll get to know your Jeep better, have a chance to put it through the different types of driving you'll be doing.

I really glad the case is not damaged. You got lucky and caught it in time. What usually happens is the chain starts slipping, then it breaks a few links, these links rub the housing and before long you've got real damage. Also everything looks really clean, no sludge, etc. Your pictures of the inside of your case are excellent examples of what the cheap chains do, and do quickly. Your chain from BJ's should last about 40k miles or more. Just chain the fluid regularly and check the chain tension with a screwdriver. As I mentioned before this was the first production chain driven Transfer Case . The newer ones have a device that tightens or takes the slack out of the chain as it wears.

When you refill you TC with automatic Transmission fluid, be sure to fill the low range unit first.

As for the locker, I would advise that you drive your Jeep for awhile, get a better feel for it, and then make your decision on a locker. Lots of previous threads on here about what is the best.

Once you get everything back together, let us know how things go. Glad you were able to fix this with minimal headaches. :chug:
 
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