Driveline popping/binding sound with video

[007]

I've heard good and bad about the reduction unit:

Hey PB... Can you explain?



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[Peanut Butter]

Hey PB... Can you explain?

Let me try this again. I got the "Blocked Error" screen and lost everything I wrote.

The introduction of the reduction unit in the part-time kit was made for the full size Jeeps (FSJ) that were equipped with a QuadraTrac Transfer Case (QT TC). A large heavy Jeep running down the highway with this setup needed a little help with RPMs and fuel economy. In the CJ's they really only worked for those with V8 engines in them. They also got better mileage and lower RPMs on the highway. The CJ's with the I6 didn't benefit at all and people that went that route were very disappointed. Changing the gear ratio in the diffs really didn't help either. Also the kit was terrible for any off-roading in all of the vehicles.

As for the part-time kit, I think that is a personal decision or a "I have no idea what I'm doing" decision. I went with the part-time kit in my latest QT TC rebuild for two reasons. First my differential was completely shot and not able to be rebuilt, second I want to try out the part-time kit. Getting out and locking in hubs was what I grew up with. I also know when to do that before I get into trouble. Since my CJ Truck will be driven mostly on the highway in Texas, I felt like it was a good fit. If I still lived in Colorado I would have found another solution. Also I need to let you know that I have extra QT transfer cases and an extra GM Turbo 400 . My next rebuild of a TC will be with a new chain and new clutch cones for the differential. If I find that I don't like the part-time kit I can switch it out. As for the "I have know idea what I'm doing" bunch, I think that the lack of parts and knowledge on the QT led people to install the part-time kit as an easy solution.

I mentioned that I had an extra GM Turbo 400 . What came with my CJ was the BOP GM Turbo 400 with an OEM adapter plate. These were also found in the early FSJ's. My extra is the AMC housing. I plan to rebuild that, install it in my CJ Truck then at a later date rebuild the BOP GM Turbo 400 . That way I'll have several different options for engines if I decide that the I6 is enough engine for my truck. I was lucky and they were presented at the right time and at the right price.

I think returning the chain you got and getting the correct one is the best solution for now. Get it back together and then give yourself some time to dive it. After awhile you'll have a better idea of what you need and want. You'll also find several threads on here about the best locker. You were very lucky that the case was not damaged. Usually by the time they start making noise, some of the links have broken and they dig into the case causing a lot of damage. Maintenance is the key to having a QT TC. Change the fluid regularly and check the chain tension with a screwdriver at the same time. Remember this was the first chain driven TC. The newer ones now have a tension device in them to compensate for the chain slack.

I mentioned that I have a BOP GM Turbo 400 . That stands for Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac. There were 4 different types of GM Turbo 400 's made. The most common seen in the CJ is the AMC case. For more information on the GM Turbo 400 , see my article on that subject by clicking on this link: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/jeep-th400-technical-information-24384/

Finally, I'm glad things are for the most part going good for you. It could have been a lot worse. I'll say again, drive your Jeep for awhile, get a feel for what you want to do with it, then decide on what you want to change or add to it. By-the-way, I'd love to see some picture of the rest of the Jeep. Looks really clean.

 

[007]

Great post PB. Thank you.

I'm pondering a 78 Cherokee S with a 360 and a QT. Suspect it has OD?


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[Peanut Butter]

Great post PB. Thank you.

I'm pondering a 78 Cherokee S with a 360 and a QT. Suspect it has OD

Thank you. Love to see a picture of it if the deal goes through. I like that series of Jeep too. I'm also a big Forward Control fan.

 

[jwnaron]

Thanks PB. I have slept on it now and I think I am in complete agreement that I am going to just get the right chain and stick with the standard 4x2 conversion. I really appreciate the insight into the reasoning behind the OD kit as well. In my experience and my previous CJ5 , I've always had a problem with power and maintaining a good highway speed, so I think I'm going to just get it rolling and get to know this jeep. I really haven't been able to drive it much. I really want this jeep to be a great dependable trail rig that I can take to the CO mountains and use for camping and trail riding and just getting out into the CO backcountry. I'm from NC originally and have been out here for about 3 years and haven't done a ton of mountain exploration, so I'm hoping to change that and have fun with the jeep at the same time.

I will post some pics of the jeep on my profile. I added a little avatar pic. I think it's a pretty clean jeep. no rust and I got a pretty good deal at $3k for it as it is now. I haven't done any upgrades to it myself. I think everyone was just scared of that Transfer Case popping, so they loss was my gain.

I'm going to get the new chain hopefully before Thanksgiving and get it done Thursday. The weekend at the latest.

I'll keep the thread updated with progress.

Thanks again for all the information and knowledge everyone has contributed. It's amazingly helpful to keep things in perspective with everyone opinions.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

FWIW: I think you are following the best 'path' here.
LG

 

[Peanut Butter]

I spent 10 years living in the mountains of Colorado when I retired. I also worked for a National Fire team. At the time I used a Jeep Cherokee. I went places with that other people never go. I did a mild lift, heaver front springs to support a winch and a heavy duty bumper, ran 31" tires - MT Baja Claws. I got over rocks, went through the snow, and drove 80 to 90 mph code 3. It's not always what you put on your Jeep but how you drive it. Now if you want to climb rocks, that's a different story. What you got now will get you most every where you want to go in Colorado. By-the-way, it's nothing but beautiful everywhere you go out there.

 

[jwnaron]

got the new, correct chain today. some pics of the differences between new and old. interesting how the new chain has a smaller diameter arc when bent. I can't tell much difference between them other than that. new chain is on top. the sprockets are about an 1/8 inch closer together with new chain. there is also a stamp on the new chain links. Ramsey... i think it says.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Don't forget to 'oil-bath' the chain before install.
Finger crossed all goes well.
LG

 

[jwnaron]

Ok, so I have a question about wear.

One of these gears seems to have to some serious wear on the backside that faces the front of the Transfer Case . This is the original sprocket where the trust washer go on, same side as the reduction side. Opposite of the input shaft. I can feel rings that range from at least a 1/16" with the highest point being closest to the center of the sprocket. I hope you can see what I'm talking about from these pictures.

Is that still ok to use?

Btw, also showing my new parts washer I'm using. This a great little washer. If you're not familiar with it, it's bio-remediating and has a parts washer brush that shoots water through the brush while you wash. nice little clean, non-toxic washer to use in an enclosed space. re-usable too! There is an online coupon and I think I got it for <$300. It's called The Benchtop Pro.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Know very little about Q-trac.
That said-That type of wear is never 'rite'. What caused this?
LG

 

[jwnaron]

I have no idea. my immediate reaction was to look at the front side of TC case where that wear is facing. can't see anything. not even sure how that could have happened.

the protrusion of that gear fits inside the bearing in the pics below. maybe something from a previous bad bearing? can't tell, but bearing looks in great shape, no play, etc.

 

[jwnaron]

I think I'm just going to put it back together. it appears the bearing sets the rearward stop, if u will, so I don't really see howhat that wear can affect it. not like that gear is moving back and forth.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Are you sure those are wear marks, and not cuts from when the gear was made??
LG

 

[jwnaron]

I don't know. I thought about that and looked at all the other surfaces and everything is precision machined. I wouldn't think the manufacture is that sloppy. I don't think it's part of my problem and the gears went in and hit a "bottom" and both seem to be in perfect alignment. I tapped with a rubber mallet and git each gear to "seat" and i think I'm going to take my chances. I managed to get both those dang gears in there with the chain.

Here is a pic. added the old pic for comparison.


managed to find a new package of ultra blue multipurpose RTV silicone gasket maker. I'm guessing that will work for the joining the surfaces of these halves of the TC.

 

[jwnaron]

maybe one not upside down, not sure why that happened. The original isn't upside down.

 

[Peanut Butter]

What you saw on the rear reassessed surface of that gear is natural. I have yet to see one without it. Makes me think it was a manufacturing process. Looking good.

 

[jwnaron]

awesome... i also didn't do the ATF bath for the chain or sprockets. those things are HEAVY! add a 7lb chain on it. I just couldn't take the risk of it slipping out if my hand. I had everything as dry and clean as possible.

I slipped the reduction gear on the shaft and let it hang. grabbed the chain and got it around that gear being supported by a shaft, but loosely. added in the drive gear, got the chain around, then slid the drive gear on shaft. the reduction side was already on a shaft and it was easy to stretch chain to get both centered. after that it was slow, 1/4 inch movements on each side to get seated.

sealing it up now, and very happy with lack of slack. I think filling case with fluid, churning it around a bit has to lube everything. maybe let chain sit in the fluid or something to coat before putting torque it it.

putting diff back on toour so I can have a roller and driver by tomorrow.

 

[jwnaron]

Just a quick update. Having a bit of difficulty getting the pinion cage back on the reduction side. That snap ring is up on there but can't get it fall into the groove and lock it on. Like there isn't enough room. I had to take break and hopefully get it on sometime soon. I'm heading out of town for a week on Friday, so might be weekend of 12/10 before I can work on it again.

Thanks for all the advice and I'll post results once I can test drive it.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Can you 'encourage' the ring with a section of pipe that will act like a 'seating' tool?
LG