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Frame Dropped belly skid (yuck)

Frame Dropped belly skid (yuck)

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Jeeper
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Location
St. Louis, MO
Vehicle(s)
1978, CJ-7, 258 Cu In, t-18a, D20
Braced the Transmission , and dropped the skid plate (only one bold had to be cut), but I was not prepared for how heavy it was. This is not because of how thick it is, but because there was fifty years of caked on dirt, sand, and congealed gear oil. It's not an exaggeration to say it was almost an inch thick in the valleys. A pressure washer wouldn't even cut through it. I had to use a piece of angle iron to forcefully scrap off the crud. Then pressure on 0 deg head to blast it out, and then several cycles of degreaser and pressure washing before it was clean enough for the acid. There was surprisingly very little rust. That congealed layer of oil and dirt acted like cosmoline, and the steel under it was shiny where the paint had worn off. Very surprising. I should have taken pictures of the initial mess, but it cleaned up nicely. It is not severely lifted, but there is an inch or two of lift for the 31" tires. There were also almost an inch of spacers on either side of the plate to get a better angle on the axles (which I need to keep). Someone had used thin, mild steel, bar stock and stacked it and then drilled it as a spacer. I don't know if this is typical, but it's not a thoughtful design. Obviously water had gotten between the pieces for years and years, and there was very little metal left. When I removed the spacers they fell apart and one side mostly crumbled... The side that didn't was about a 1/4" less after hitting them with an angle grinder. Not worth saving.


I bought a $10 plastic cutting board at Ace, cut it into strips, epoxied them together, and I'm going to drill the holes for a spacer that will not rust, and will probably outlast me. Once painted black you won't even notice it. That cutting board plastic is tough and very heat resistant. It should make the perfect spacer to keep my drive shaft angles.

That said, the Transfer Case was caked with grease and dirt. Looks like it's leaking from multiple places. I expect it will need all the seals replaced. The shift linkage isn't acting up at all, but my guess is that it's also disgustingly caked. If I take it out I may was well do the whole thing...
I do have pictures, but for some reason I can't post them...
 
Great and very good LONG post.
How about a Dana 20 rebuild?

I'm going to my favorite rebuild because I wrote it. The D20 is strong


 
Speaking of which, I've never rebuilt a Transfer Case or a Transmission . What do you think are the best step by step instructions (with detailed illustrations)?

I wasn't going to attempt it because I don't have a press for the bearings, but I watched a video of a guy who was freezing and heating to get an easy fit and it looked like it worked pretty well with a bearing driver and things went together smoothly (for him).
 
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Using the cold / hot process does work and has been used for centuries but has a serious limitation. It puts stress on the race. Please go to a neighborhood auto store for help.
Heck if I was close I would be there...
 
Well, if it wasn't obvious from the skid plate, I fillled my tcase and it leaks like a seive. Probably just oil down in the pan, and everything above the seals leaked out, nasty stuff too. So, it looks like I'm going to rebuild it a lot sooner than I had planned.

I think I'm going to buy the Novac master kit. (Link)-> Parts for the Dana Model 20 Transfer Case | Novak Conversions -<

Opinions? Best instructions/videos?
 
It's the front axle seal that is the culprit. That's really the only place I can find it's leaking from. I'm thinking I throw a new one in there, run a flush cycle with some cheap STP gear oil, refill it with the good stuff, and I should be good till winter (the appropriate time to rebuild a Transfer Case or do a major Jeep overhaul).

Several places say the yoke is likely grooved and I may need a replacement OR, a "Speedy Sleeve". Has anyone ever used one of these? Actually, looking at the price of the sleeve ($65), I could almost buy a new yoke for that! I would have thought that was a $5 piece of metal. If a patch costs as much as a new part how do they sell any of those sleeves? I guess if you can't find the replacement part...
 
I have used many sleeves on many repairs. It's actually pretty easy, the trick is finding the correct diameter.
If you have a groove you just red loctite the sleave on the shaft and your good.
Another trick that works is to find a small spacer / shim to put behind the seal to offset it out of the groove, or if you have the correct size socket or seal install tool + do not drive the seal home, stop just short of flush.
 

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